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Jul 29, 2019 11:52:06 GMT
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Gives me the sweats just looking at that caliper re-build  . HOW annoying is trying to locate those stupid little splitrings that hold the seals in place? That's one job I hope to never do again! That fuel economy is definitely not right! Mine gets twice that on a streetport and Weber 48IDA  EDIT to add that radiator is a great idea. You can never have too much cooling on an RX-7. Even better if you can swap the viscous fan for a decent electric one, they sap loads of energy and aren't especially efficient. Plus the little pin thing fails and you don't necessarily know because it'll still run at idle but never step up in speed They went straight in for me! Now you have me worried that I did it wrong haha. The only part that I found annoying was I forgot to pump the piston out on the car so I had to attach it again and rebleed it to get the piston out far enough. I'm going E-Fan though I'm not sure if the ones that came with the rad are really man enough for the task. Bit of a curse word with the economy as the car is running well, not had a single pop or bang from it yet so I don't know where that fuel is going! |
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Well another small update. First up I discovered the source of my poor fuel economy and the fuel smell:  Leak from the tank! Short term solution is don't fill up all the way. Long term solution, drop it and see if its repairable. Following the previous theme of reliability mods, I decided to do something about the cruddy old engine wiring & prehistoric fusible links and replace them with something, slightly more modern.   All replacement lines are 25mm wire with adhesive heat-shrink over the crimps. Proper battery terminals as well.    The old fusible link didn't want to leave, but some careful incision with an angle grinder made short work of him.  The retractor wire and headlight wire had heat-shrink terminals attached. Again adhesive lined so no chance of water creeping along the wire.  Finally I fitted the fuse box. Its originally from an FC and IMO looks pretty factory. I now have easily replaceable fuses, and lots of spares to run stuff like E-Fans and other stuff I have planned.  I may change again in future, long term I plan to put relays on some of the components like the lights and retractors, fuel pump, etc, a lot of the load for that stuff goes directly through the ignition switch, and as they are NLA from Mazda, it makes sense to look after it. Alternatively I may find a hidden location for the relays as I really want a 'clean' engine bay. Interestingly enough after all this the idle on the car is up by around 100rpm, its far smoother than it was. I suspect the earths were a bit dodgy before. For a start the old Earth cable was tiny, the grounding bolt was covered in corrosion. When I installed it, I made sure to clean away the paint under the terminal for a better chassis connection. With the car hopefully reliable, it was driver comfort next. While the brown seats didn't look to bad, the drivers bolster had collapsed, it wouldn't sit upright, under hard braking the whole backrest would rock forward, and it was also collapsed in the middle. Not comfy on any kind of drive & I had to brace myself against the steering wheel in the corners. According to the internet S4 FC seats are a direct bolt in, with just one bolt hole needing to be stretched. I was a little dubious but given I had FC seats in my lockup it seemed worth a go.    And they were right! The seats maybe the wrong colour, but they're 10x the comfort & hold you in very nicely. I've blitzed them with some car upholstery cleaner, but I think they need a wetvac treatment. And probably re-trimming down the line. They make the car a much more pleasant place to be, the height is ever so slightly higher, which actually works out OK as I can rest my arm out the window more easily.  Finally, I fitted MX5 wiper arms, so that I could have a hook attachment. (Well one anyway, the other is in the post still)  Quick test after wiring to make sure nothings going to catch fire.  LEDs for the number plate lights.  And that's all I managed. Progress will slow in future as I'm on a training course next week, holiday the week after & two weeks at work after that. |
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Tanks have been out of production for a loooooooong time, and tend to be held onto like gold dust if you find a good one. They all seem to get pin holes in the top eventually, I guess because that's where they're full of air rather than submerged. I've got a series 3 one that's got surface rust but is sound, although I honestly can't remember if S3 and S2 ones are the same. I know S1 ones are different (becos Mazda). I fitted MX-5 wipers for the exact same reason, much more practical. Only one I failed with is the rear wiper, which unbelievably has a smaller size spindle.... becos Mazda . If you find a modern one that fits there I'd be your best friend for life  |
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I believe the S3 tank is larger than the S2 one, although maybe that's just the american one for their EFI GSL-SE?
I imagine this one will be fixable, drain, clean out. High build epoxy on the outside to seal off the pinholes, & rust buster do an internal tank coating to prevent it happening again.
Regarding the rear wiper, I'm on the lookout as well, but looking at the construction, they all seem the same, one single rivet holding the arm at the correct length, and the other end is held by the internal spring.
So theoretically, drill out that rivet & replace the arm with a hook one off the correct length and re-rivet. That way you can keep the base of the wiper arm with the correct spline fitting.
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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That's a rather clever workaround! Post pics of how it goes please 😁
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Aug 18, 2019 22:33:14 GMT
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A little update, I've not done a huge amount because I was away for a week and catching up with other stuff. The main task I got done was to (mostly) complete the E-Fan installation. The original plan was to use the unused bung on the top left of the radiator, unfortunately however its G3/8" thread, which is BSP Parallel, and I've had no luck finding a radiator switch in that thread that will work. I bought an adaptor to convert it to the M22 thread switch I already had, however this didn't work out. First business was to remove all the old fan & shroud.   Then mount the twin fan setup onto the rad:    I decided to go twin relay with the twin fan setup to give myself some redundancy, so I bought a pair of 40amp relays & plugs. I prewired them on the bench, so they have have shared power feed & earth, the energise circuit earth is shared as is the trigger wire, but the outputs are kept separate, one per fan.   Next up I removed the battery & tray so as to hide the wiring behind it, I mounted the relays on two existing holes that exactly lined up. Long term I want to do a full wire tuck in the engine bay so it will all be hidden, but until that day I didn't want to add any new holes. I did make a little mistake with the circuit, I forgot to heat-shrink the sensor wires which I'll have to go back & do.       So anyway, after all this it was time to test, I refilled the coolant & ran up the engine and it warmed & warmed & warmed, still not fan. curse word. My conclusion is that the switch is too far from the main coolant flow, its also set stupidly far back due to the thread adaptor thats fitted and because it has a hydraulic standpipe inside it doesn't get coolant across its hole face. So I need either a G3/8" coolant switch, or more likely an inline mount for the top radiator hose and put the sensor there. My interim solution is to wire it to the unused radio antenna switch in the centre console.  Testing on the drive had the double fans easily cooling the engine, which is much more rev happy now its not spinning the fan. The belts also seems less prone to slipping. With all that done it was time for a blast out in the countryside, a run to the N. York Moors    The car was looking great, but now some bad news, I hit a sheep. Or the sheep hit me more accurately, unfortunately it looks like I need a new drivers wing & light.     It doesn't show up well in the photos, but the front of the wing has pushed into the light & put a crease in the top of it, that may knock out, but I'm gonna have to search for a new wing. Drat. It ruined an otherwise great drive, I was having a great run, sun was out, engine was really on song & running impeccably, the road had a great 'flow' and then 3 sheep just decided to run across in front of me, luckily it was just a glancing blow, and animal lovers will be pleased to know that the sheep was absolutely fine. Ah well, another job for the list. At least the damage was minimal. lucky fuel economy seems better but still pretty bad, definitely less than 20mpg. Unfortunately I can't do a full fill up to measure it accurately if I fill my fuel tank all the way it leaks! |
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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That's exactly what my wing did, only it was hit by my wife reversing her car rather than errant ovine terrorists  It seems that the shape of the wing means it has nowhere to go but crimp up and out when compressed in a front corner collision. Small consolation but the front headlight closing panel should pull out quite well and the wing might beat flat again? Probably need paint though  I had the devil's own job sorting a fan switch on mine. I agree that yours might be set too far back as it is now. I ended up mounting one direct into the threaded boss on the waterpump, which works predicatably at least but has a couple of drawbacks. One is that it senses temperature when it's at its highest so comes on sooner (not exactly a problem). The other is that due to the odd size Mazda used on the thread (becos Mazda, it's M14 IIRC), the only one I could find off the shelf to fit was a Nissan Micra one so the temperature range is a bit lower than you'd like on an RX-7. So it comes on early but struggles to then cool enough to drop below the "switch off" threshold. Short way of saying it is once the fan's on, it tends to stay on. I actually bought a spare waterpump housing and an M22 tap so I could fit a common aftermarket switch with a decent temperature range, but needless to say I haven't got round to it yet Still, on a positive note the car looks great in the photos and you've done well to take that battery tray out and not end up with the front corner of the car collapsing into huge amount of grot and rust  They love to rot there normally |
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Aug 19, 2019 10:29:46 GMT
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Hmm, I didn't spot that threaded boss, I'll have a look later today. I actually also have an M14 switch that may do the job, its from any number of BMW E30s. Intermotor 50041 Temperature range is on at 95, off at 90. Which is probably a little on the warm side, but I'll need to do a test. Failing that, probably your idea of tapping the water pump. Thanks about the car, I'd like to take credit, but all I did was wash it and give it a wax. Cosmetically its been *reasonably* well maintained. Barring the rust. Mechanically, still loads to do. The battery tray bolts were an exercise in extreme caution to remove, but I somehow managed |
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Aug 19, 2019 12:03:09 GMT
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rotarypower . I don't think the extension on the thermal switch will have they much effect on the switch warming up, unless the coolant level is not covering it adequately when the radiator spits out what it need to maintain an expansion area. But if you do want to mount the switch right o the tank, I have some m22 aluminium bosses left over if you can get someone to tig it on for you. PM your address and I'll post one out if you like.
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2019 12:04:22 GMT by jonsey
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Aug 19, 2019 17:42:02 GMT
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Still waiting on postage costs on those gilmer belt pulleys.....
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2019 17:42:28 GMT by Deleted
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Aug 19, 2019 17:45:50 GMT
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jonsey, I think the issue is that because its a hydraulic fitting it works on compression, so there's a standpipe inside the fitting that pushes against the switch, so the coolant only covers probably half if not less the surface area of the switch. I'll try the M14 idea first as that could be easy if the bung already exists, if not I might have to take you up on your kind offer. @johnnybravo, its boxed up and addressed in the boot of my car, I keep forgetting to stop at the post office haha.
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Aug 19, 2019 18:03:05 GMT
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😂😂😂. Sounds like me 😂😂
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Sept 21, 2019 0:06:13 GMT
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More progress has been made, sorry if this post seems a bit disjointed, its a culmination of a few posts I made at the FB forum just collated into one super post. Halfords sell an (overpriced IMO) rattle can of black Vinyl paint, so I thought I'd have a go at blacking some of the interior parts that are currently brown. I washed and dried all parts (using fairy liquid) and lightly scuffed them with a scotchbrite pad followed by some brake cleaner to really try and get any remaining oils off the surface. (I also repainted the catch surround that was rusty as heck)    Before:  After:  Fairly happy with how it came out, I might try some plastic primer on the next bits to see if I can promote some more adhesion as this stuff scratches easily. --- First day back on the beach, I had intended to just potter on the car a bit, but the more I saw the sheep damage the more it bothered me. First port of call was to ring Mazda parts locally, wings are still available for this car new in the USA, unfortunately none of their vendors seem to post internationally, plus I guess that would be pretty damn expensive as well. Anyway Mazda didn't recognise the part number, couldn't find the part on their system, and they're now apparently contacting Mazda HQ to see what they can do, the US guys don't realist how lucky they have it! Anyway I decided to start stripping it down anyway, given the age of the vehicle I expected seized and snapped fasteners, I wasn't disappointed. First up remove the lights:   I was struggling to get the headlamp assembly out, and for some reason I decided bumper off was the way to do it. Lots of this:  First the air dam thing.  Then the bumper, it put up a fight and I had to remove it with the bracket still attached and unbolted from the car due to seized fasteners.  Image Yeah its pretty rusty in there!  These next two photos show part of the wing misalignment issue, as can be seen the left hand bracket has been bent by the impact, right hand one is normal.   Luckily there doesn't appear to be any damage in the rest of this area, so I kind of got away quite lucky.   Next out was the wing:   And this is the state of play as of the end of the day:   I've split apart the two sections of the bumper in the garage, both low bolts on the wing sheared when I removed them along with a couple of others. I've also made a start on splitting the bumper from its support bracket as its in a bit of a rusty state. Given the state of things under there I can't rightly put it all back together until I deal with all the rust, there seems to be no rot, so I'm thinking I'll give the arches and front end the epoxy treatment while I'm waiting on the body work parts. The plan is to make a list of all the fasteners and bits I've removed and replace it all, with stainless where possible, and get everything looking good before it goes back together. Watch this space. |
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Sept 21, 2019 0:10:37 GMT
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Got a bumper box from Rock Auto today, with nice shiny new bits. Including new clutch line and master cylinder, exhaust hangers, engine mounts, gearbox mount, carb rebuild kit, new hoses for the engine bay, new strong arm boot lifter. And plenty of other bits I forgot.  I also picked up 2 second hand headlights (to replace my damaged one), they're in red so they've been dropped off with the body shop guy to spray up at the same time he fixes my wing.  While I'm waiting for that to be done it was time to crack on with the getting the front area de-rusted and ready for my fixed wing and light to go back on.    Both wings now off, good thing on these older cars is that its a simple job, usually a bolts and screws, none of these plastic clips that you can't work out how to undo until they already broken off!  Wing was actually in good condition with just the beginnings of some rust at the bottom, I decided that I wouldn't bother coating the interior inner side of it, just the bottom 3rd or so where the water and dead leaves collect. Hopefully they'll be on and off enough for me to keep an eye on them, and with stainless fasteners it should be an easy job in future.  Fixed a couple of bolts that had sheered on the bumper brackets, had to drill them out and helicoil them. My drilling was a bit off centre, but its hard to do while supporting the bumper bracket and trying to stop the tab deflecting. I   Next up I decided that due to the awful condition of the bumper support bar I'd use epoxy mastic, I had some red left over from the FC which I didn't want to use anywhere visible on this car, but for jobs like this out of sight it would be a shame to waste it. I'd forgotten how hard this stuff was to brush on, next time I'm going to have a go at spraying it, its quite hard to brush a good finish and still get into every nook and cranny. I'll most likely go over with paint as well after just to get any areas I may have missed. The smaller brackets were done with a black epoxy spray can. Its only one part though so I'm not sure how it can be real epoxy. (The bolts are in to save me re-tapping all the holes)    Finally I fitted my boot support strut, I wish I'd bought two now. One holds it up perfectly fine, but I'd prefer it to lift of its own accord once I get it started.   Next up is to get the front end sorted. I'm not sure how far to go with this area, if I should just do the arches and then come back for the wings when the engine bay gets painted, or just do everything I can get too right now. |
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Sept 21, 2019 0:14:55 GMT
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Time for the next thrilling installment on how to take one step forward and several leaps back. I picked up a couple of bits to have a play around with, won't be doing anything with them any time soon, but they were at a price I couldn't turn down, worse case scenario if I don't end up needing then I'll just sell them down the line.   Next up I cracked on with the front bumper support, I went over the epoxy coating with a couple of coats of Frost Chassis black I had around the garage, I'm fairly confident that should hopefully stop the curse word rusting for at least another 5 years.   Next I turned to the front arches and the front end, whilst I hadn't wanted to get stuck into this area just yet, it would be criminal to box it all back up in the state it had been so I donned the gloves, glasses, mask and ear defender and set to work with Mr 115mm. I found the rotary brass wheel was the most effective way to cut through underseal rather than the steel one.   If you look closely in the second photo (above) you can see where someone has 'repaired' the chassis rail with car body filler. My first alert to this was the distinctive smell of filler dust, followed by the obvious white patch. I wasn't ready to repair these areas yet, so I made a note of them and cracked on. The plan had been to spray the wheel arches with epoxy mastic, however this turned into a disaster despite following the instructions carefully. My gun clogged, then I managed to knock it over while I was adding more thinners, epoxy went all over the garage, ruining my shoes, jeans (through my overalls!) and various other bits & pieces. I decided to apply it by brush and accept that I wouldn't end up with the best of finishes.    Those pics were after the first coat. The following are after the second coat. Eventually she'll be getting a coat of white Raptor bed liner, but I've some metal repairs to make first.    At this point I got told by the body guy that the wing wouldn't be ready in time for me going away to work again, given that I get it done for 'mates rates' and save a fortune I was absolutely fine with it and decided to proceed with getting some of the bits I took off refitted. I'd been measuring all the fasteners I removed and apart from in certain areas where proper high tensile strength fasteners were required I'm putting it back together using stainless fasteners. Hopefully I'll never have issues taking it apart again!  Snapped off bolts were drilled out & heli-coiled.    Highlighted areas that needed future repair with a sharpie.  New plastic clips for the wheel guard screws.  Shiny new bolts & clean paint makes me happy!  Suspension back in, this was a royal PITA to do, I had to unbolt the adjustment bar that goes forward to allow the arms to drop far enough for me to get in the shock assembly back in.  And with the wing in place.  Panel gap getting there, still needs some tweaking.  Same with the front bumper, not happy just yet.  Sprayed up the lights, (no photos of finish yet) they didn't come up great and will need replacing eventually, this is more an interim measure.  Finally bled the brakes, refitted the wheel & dropped her off the axle stands. This is how she currently sits until I get back from offshore. Looking forward to finally being able to drive her again.  |
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Sept 21, 2019 16:09:55 GMT
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Cracking work there - well done!
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Sept 21, 2019 16:17:35 GMT
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Yep, good work! Getting there...
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Oct 29, 2019 20:04:01 GMT
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Its been a while, but an update at last: When I took apart the headlights as part of stripping the car down for the repair work I realised just how old and crusty the adjustment screws / springs were. So I did a bit of measuring & ordered up some stainless springs & bolts to suit.  Some parts from Mazdatrix turned up:  Specifically that's the rubber moulding that fell off, waterpump gasket as I'll be fitting an aluminium 13b one on. Oh and some shifter bushings to fix the gear feel. Next I drained the gearbox oil, and it looked pretty disgusting, smelt it as well. Probably the first time in 20 years at least its been drained. I did the same for the diff.  Finally my replacement hood stay clip arrived. I had to bend the stay to get it to actually fit.  I had planned to change the axle bearings at this point, but the state of the brake shields persuaded me that I'd just end up destroying them getting it out, so I'll try and source some replacements first. Next up the guy I normally get to do painting for me didn't have time to do my wings so I decided to just give it a go, how hard can it be.. right? First up stop the rust. This wing is basically full of pin holes at the bottom so its gonna get replaced. For the moment however I'll just hit it with some rust encapsulator.   Something tells me this is the last time I'll be using this tin.   Next, sand, fill, prime.      Carefully remove the old adhesive from the mouldings. (I took all the mouldings off where I was painting, using a heatgun & patience. I also removed the badges)  Send iiiiiitt.  Note when sending it, don't send it to much with a poorly adjusted gun, or you get runs.  So after that debacle I tried to sand the runs out, but ended up going right through the paint. I gave up and repainted them both. (That sentence doesn't really do the extra day and a bits work justice) Despite the gun falling apart and having to finish with a LVLP gun and a 1.8 tip, it came out much better. I have to flat back and buff. Also a few runs to carefully remove.  Not so happy with the front bumper fitment, but I couldn't get it any better than this.     Got to say I'm reasonably happy with that as a first attempt at painting myself. Just need to reattach mouldings, badges & buff it all up, the colour mismatch isn't noticeably in real life, I think the light must have been weird for the one photo where it looks miles out. |
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Long time no update.
If this post seems disjointed its because its an accumulation of posts I put on the RX7fb Forum and I've finally got around to backdating this blog.
I've fitted a reconditioned driveshaft. Took it to a place in Leeds who were able to replace front and rear CVs, and rebalance. It also now has a grease nipple on each joint so hopefully it will last longer.  Some goodies from LRB speed turned up as well.   Unfortunately the suspension started clunking loudly from the front yesterday, it was pretty easy to see the issue when I jacked it up:  I've taken the hint and ordered an energy suspension complete bushing kit. The plan is to do everything apart from the two upper rear control arms. I also found time to assemble the LRB speed kit. On the whole a decent product, a few parts were a bit fiddly to fit. And I think they should have left a cut out under the sub-frame for jacking, but otherwise pretty good. Not had a chance to test it at speed yet due to the snapped ARB drop link.    The stereo has also stopped working which is a bit of a disaster, it only plays sound on right hand corners so I need to dive back into the wiring. Some pics with the trim reattached. I used a double sided trim adhesive tape I found on Amazon that was way cheaper than 3M prices.  Gave the heater core a flush today, didn't seem clogged at all, ran water through it in both directions until it was crystal clear.
Does seem to have improved it, after 20 mins of driving it was starting to get quite hot inside and another 20 mins later on the way home I even hard to turn it down.
I reckon its still gunked up with leaves though.
Also fixed the door lock actuator (the inside cabin one), for some reason they were both disconnected and cable tied up. Really annoying having to use the key separately for each door.
They'd also bent it and it took me ages to get the alignment correct again.   Okay, so I've managed to have a days leisurely work on the RX7. First order of business I decided was to get the the rear end stripped away so I could see what I was dealing with rust wise. First get her jacked up to a decent height & onto some axles stands. The axle is a handy jacking point.   So I started unbolting bits.  Then I stopped taking photos and just carried on, getting to this stage was a real effort, every single bolt was (naturally) completed rusted & seized, some of the suspension arms are still on the car pending me getting some new tools to help get them off. (We had a break in last year & all the large size 21mm etc spanners were pinched.)  With as much unbolted as I could at this stage I took a load of photos to chronicle the current condition of the underside & suspension mount points. I think 'needs work' probably summarises it. Or 'Rusted to sh*t!'.        Basically the suspension mounts both need repairing, the sill on the passenger side while appearing sound to start with made some ominous creaking and rust crushing noises when I lifted the car on it to level it off better (using a proper sill protecting rubber puck), I really need to bare metal it all as I suspect the arches may (will) need attention. I also need to sort out this under the back bumper.   I then decided to strip out the rear interior to see what I was working with, I was quite surprised to find the nearside side rear seat bolts not only completely seized, (the heads sheered off when undoing) but there was a hole rusted through the back of the rear seats!!    I'm unsure if the rear seats will be going back in, but considering that's a foam filled seatback, welding it up could be interesting. Next up with the rear interior out I could access the inner wheel arches, predictably (and the photos aren't great because I forgot to take them until after dark) holes in the inner arches, I was able to make these considerably larger just with a screw driver, so more rust that needs to be cut out. C'est la vie.    Also under there the rear fuel pipe spider thing looks in need of immediate replacement, along with the brake pipes, very glad I'm doing this now, safety wise it will definitely be worth it. *Mini rant* Why did Mazda make lower arm link mounting points in such a way that you can't get a socket onto the nut end!? Having to go out and buy a large spanner to do the job. |
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In between other jobs found more time for the car today, loving these light evenings. So still waiting on some new tools to arrive so I decided to break out the spot weld cutter & have a look at the right hand suspension mount.  Yeah its not looking great & there's some kind of hacked on repair there.   At this stage with just a few spot welds drilled out it was already feeling pretty damn flimsy.  A little bit of working back & forth and out it comes. Carrying a chunk of the inner wheel arch as well!  Yeah I think that is FUBAR. Popped across the river to pick up some gas, welder should arrive in the next few days. Looking forward to learning a new skill. (Off the car initially)  Removed another suspension bit as I was fed up waiting for tools. Because I'd weakened the area by removing the mount, I had to get a bit creative. Got it out though.  Dropped the fuel tank, I forgot to disconnect the fuel sender (oops), the fuel lines I deliberately cut. In part to make it quicker, but mainly because I didn't want to be tempted to reuse them when I reassembled it. :lol:  Dressed back to good metal in the arch and cut it out using the angle grinder, there's a little more to cut out yet, and some of the back seat to be done. Fortunately I didn't need to cut into the swaged area.  Exhaust came out relatively easily (apart from having to remove it all in one go from the manifold as it wouldn't split) but I had to get some shears in to cut the last rubber off as access was basically impossible. Combined with rusty fasteners & I ran out of patience. Its surprisingly small diameter tubing. Obviously I had to start the car with it removed, seriously loud! I hope my neighbors appreciated it as much me.  Finally some pics of the current state of play underneath.   Touch wood I can get everything else from the rear end removed tomorrow & get to work on grinding back to bare steel & cutting rust. |
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. HOW annoying is trying to locate those stupid little splitrings that hold the seals in place? That's one job I hope to never do again!
It seems that the shape of the wing means it has nowhere to go but crimp up and out when compressed in a front corner collision. Small consolation but the front headlight closing panel should pull out quite well and the wing might beat flat again? Probably need paint though 
They love to rot there normally
