dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Should be smple but its not
I have a 2.5 tdi vw engine. When I refurbed it I reoved the crank sensor. Its held in with one very thin bolt. On refitting the bolt snapped. So I carefully tried to drill the bolt out using a small bit. Was doing ok til the bit snapped.
Evetually I managed to get everything out and tried tapping the hole. The very end of the tap snapped off.
Anyway...the bolt hole is very close to the hole for the crank sensor. Ive fitted the sensor and tried aralditig a bolt into the hole which seems to have worked but is less than ideal. Can anybody recommend a solution for fixing a bolt/stud into a hole that cant be tapped? Any loctites for this?
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squonk
Part of things
Posts: 864
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2004 Chevrolet Avalanche Z71 2005 Mercedes CLK320 Cabriolet 1996 Mercedes C180 Elegance Auto Saloon 1996 Rover 620Ti (Dead fuel pump) 1992 Toyota HiLux Surf 1987 Range Rover Vogue (Rusty) 1992 Range Rover Vogue SE (More Rusty) 2006 Chrysler Grand Voyager 2008 Corsa 1.4 Design
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If you cant cut a new thread (helicoil or timesert maybe) I'd clean it extremely well, maybe brake cleaner or suchlike, then use chemical metal. I've fixed holes in engines with chemical metal a couple of times, its hard and strong and stays where you put it if you take enough trouble over cleanliness.
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Just a thought, can you tap the next size up, and drill out the sensor tab to suit.
Pics would help.
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Make a bracket that fits a near by fixing and just clamps the sensor down into place.
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Make a bracket that fits a near by fixing and just clamps the sensor down into place. Best solution so far if you can.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Thanks guys. The main issue is that the hole has been opened up and is now at risk of breaking through to the hole for the sendor. So tapping to a larger size is out of the question. I like the idea of liquid metal and this was the route I was looking for. But which liquid metal? I also thought about the last idea of making a bracket to hold it in. There are several bolt holes in the block nearby so if all else fails I'll go for this option. Thanks
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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If you go the route of using liquid metal of some sort can you glue in a stud ? That way you can use a nut to hold the sensor in place.
I've used a product called Devcon to repair a gearbox casing in the past but that was a fair size hole, perhaps a suitable large gap filling high strength Loctite might be suitable. If you did this and made up a bracket it should be OK.
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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JB Weld, even our own JB, ie @johnnybravo has been heard to praise it AFAIK.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Its Chemical metal that I've used,thats the name if you search for it.
I'm sure other products also work but thats the one I have experience of. I think I'd try the suggestion of fixing a stud in with it then carefully fitting a nut to that.
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I've used Chemical Metal in a similar situation. I put a short length of threaded stud into the chemical metal in the hole and then used a nut to hold the sensor.Just ensure cleanliness of the hole and mix the CM properly and let it harden for an hour (supposedly ready in 10 mins but i'm a belt and braces sort of bodger) before fitting the nut and don't over tighten, M6 is about 9NM. Because it is locating the sensor there is no load on it just the resistance of any 'O' ring on initial insertion. Stayed in place for a couple of years before I sold the car on.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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