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Dec 15, 2018 18:42:47 GMT
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Glen, yes its pretty well the same size - slightly bigger. It had a pitched roof before but the whole thing was poor/cold/leaky. It will have plenty of rafter space for storage of ladders etc but it won't be closed off as I prefer high open ceilings.
It's moved back 4 metres as we are extending the house next year and the regs demand the garage has to be 4 metres from the house minimum. It's now currently approx 8.4 metres from the house so when we extend out (4.2 metres) we will ok for building regs.
Chris, yes probably a good idea - rain today has shown the old floor (very smooth) has quite a few low points so a screed over the lot will get things nice & level.
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Mark - Something I would strongly consider is having a couple of vent apertures built into the walls - I have one low intake on one side and high outtake on the other you would only need 300 x 300mm - I have 450 x 450mm but I use mine quite a lot - if you do the odd bit of paint or even need fresh air extraction when welding etc - I fitted good quality alloy louvre panels on the outside faces and then filter boxes on the inside with an extractor fan on the out take - makes a huge difference
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ian65
Part of things
Posts: 276 
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Dec 16, 2018 14:03:55 GMT
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Mark - Something I would strongly consider is having a couple of vent apertures built into the walls - I have one low intake on one side and high outtake on the other you would only need 300 x 300mm - I have 450 x 450mm but I use mine quite a lot - if you do the odd bit of paint or even need fresh air extraction when welding etc - I fitted good quality alloy louvre panels on the outside faces and then filter boxes on the inside with an extractor fan on the out take - makes a huge difference good call.... I'm having to core a hole in the brickwork of my garage now to fit an extract system... it would have been much easier to build it in at the time. |
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Dec 16, 2018 14:35:13 GMT
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Chris, if you look at the front elevation of the plans you can see the 18" square 'door' for my 15" extractor fan. Windows at opposite end of the garage will provide the ingress - I put a fine mesh screen over the windows when painting to keep particles/small flies out. It worked well on my old garage.
Screed is a must looking at the depth of the puddles today, original floor was smooth - but definitely not flat!!
Think I will screed it myself though - that way it will be done right.
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Dec 16, 2018 15:39:51 GMT
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Mark - You can always float the floor over with a heavy duty self levelling latex - which is what I did with mine - its stood up to the use very well and is more than worth doing. @grumpynorthener can you remember what you used? has this stood up to trolley jack wheels, dropping heavy things on it etc, as I am thinking of doing similar after repairing and extending my garage floor, but was concerned that it would just break up/ chip off (like so many pub cellar floors I have seen a few months after re-screeding ( I'm a draught soft drinks engineer so spend a lot of time in cellars!)) Cheers |
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Dec 16, 2018 19:49:32 GMT
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^^^^
what he said.
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mtrehy
Part of things
Posts: 10
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Dec 16, 2018 20:37:44 GMT
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I've just been through the garage floor scenario and can spare you loads of research! Hire a diamond floor grinder for a day, they are easy to use and don't make much mess - mostly self contained. Grind it as smooth as you like and then epoxy the floor. Job done. Won't take more than 3 hours for you to grind that size floor. Buy twice as much epoxy as you calculate you need. Not worth scrimping on an extra hundred quid when it makes such a massive difference at the end. The floor is the most important part! I had lots of frustration with getting the contractors to do the floor as I wanted it so like most things you have to do it yourself if you want it right. I did grinding and epoxy myself so happy to give tips on things I would do differently if I ever do another! www.speedcrete.co.uk/concrete-plant-equipment/surface-preparation-equipment/concrete-grinders.htmlwww.epoxyproducts.co.uk/ |
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2018 20:42:32 GMT by mtrehy
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Dec 16, 2018 21:37:26 GMT
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how did you get into the corners with a grinder?
I think I need to remove about 10mm to get the floor flat so I'm wondering if a screed would be better.
Epoxy - paint, or the thicker screed thay have on their website?
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mtrehy
Part of things
Posts: 10
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Dec 16, 2018 21:55:05 GMT
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The grinder gets closer to the corners than you would expect. You obviously won't be using the last couple of inches in each corner and will generally be hidden by something. I've not noticed mine and I'm very anal about the garage. 10mm is a lot. you won't do that with a grinder. you won't do it with latex either though - or not cost effectively at least. You need to have a reasonable thickness across the whole floor so you need thickness from your lowest point to a few mm above your highest. This will not be cheap. Why are you so concerned about flat? Is smooth not ok? I ended up jack hammering out the first attempt that a contractor did on my slab... I needed it flat as I had a flush floor car lift going in. I used the epoxy paint on the floor, about 3 heavy coats on top of the primer coat. www.epoxyproducts.co.uk/floor%20paints%20&%20coatings.html10mm is a long way out - what does the contractor say about it? Pretty easy job to get within 5mm across that width - only got to get the shuttering level and then drag a bit of wood across. Not rocket science. Was he using a rotary laser level to set out? |
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2018 22:05:58 GMT by mtrehy
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Dec 16, 2018 22:09:54 GMT
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Guessing a bit with the 10mm but the original floor has a CROWN on it so 10mm at the low edges but virtually nothing in the middle.
Grinder may well be ok then as mainly looking for smooth but I would like the low spots a bit higher if possible. Grinder would be good for removing the rubbish floor covering that is on it already. Where did you hire the grinder from?
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mtrehy
Part of things
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Dec 16, 2018 22:13:55 GMT
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www.speedcrete.co.uk/ Local branch to me in Salisbury but think they are nationwide. Can't remember the exact cost but remember thinking it was quite cheap. Maybe £100 or something and then they charge per mm of wear on the diamond cutters but it was nothing measurable on my 50m2 which I hit quite hard. The machine is crazy heavy though as it uses it's own weight to bear down on the floor. It's easy to use but takes 3 strong men to lift it. I engine craned it into my van.
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Dec 17, 2018 12:33:46 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2018 18:14:59 GMT by Deleted
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Dec 17, 2018 12:58:36 GMT
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Awesome chris, and easy to get products as well. sounds just what I need.
Thanks mtrehy for your input as well - I had never heard of concrete grinders before.
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Dec 17, 2018 19:38:30 GMT
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^^^ what he said!! 😎
I'd never heard of concrete grinders either, and those products look very straightforward 😁.
Cheers Guys.
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mtrehy
Part of things
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Dec 17, 2018 21:19:09 GMT
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Horses for courses really. My garage was an existing garage with an extension. The existing slab had a tamped finish but was pretty flat. The new slab was floated smooth.The grinder was great in removing the roughness of the tamped finish on the existing slab. If you only needed to take a few mm then the grinder would be by far the quickest and cheapest option, 2 or 3 hours and £100 ish rental. 10mm isn't doable though but is going to cost a lot with latex and not a 5 min job. I suppose if you are happy with the finish of the latex and you don't need to epoxy it after then might not be too much additional cost.  |
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Last Edit: Dec 17, 2018 21:20:30 GMT by mtrehy
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mtrehy
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Dec 17, 2018 21:20:49 GMT
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Dec 17, 2018 22:32:07 GMT
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Nice garage. I'll put a resin/epoxy finish over the screed after to seal it off. To be honest it will be approx £100 in screed to level it so costs are about the same. Not so happy today - got home to find end walls going up and the big door frame in. What I did not find was the hole for the extractor fan in the wall  Also the end walls are all 9" thick - I was expecting just a pier either side of the door frame. It's ok - but the builder should have advised this need when we went through the plans. Garage is smaller than the plans - this is due to next doors perimiter line being wonky so I'm not complaining there - but again it has made the door width 5" smaller as he has kept the end walls the same size. Not a big issue as they are still nearly 8 feet wide, but I wish he had checked with me first. Needless to say we are having a planning meeting tomorrow morning as he knows I'm not happy. |
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mtrehy
Part of things
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Dec 17, 2018 22:42:36 GMT
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Building control guy asked me to put steel posts around my door as the opening is 2.7m high but you shouldn't have needed 9" thickness across the whole wall. you can just about make out the 100mm box section in the corners - didn't need any calcs or anything- just seemed to be a bit of a building control whim but only cost £100 or so in box section and actually made fitting the roller door easier as I had something to weld brackets to.
I was lucky in a way as I was around and helping with most of the block work so able to move things about and make changes on the fly. Also brickie is a mate so no big arguments over minor changes. I even got him to remove the top row of blocks so I could change the roof pitch after he had laid them.
I don't really see why you'd want extraction.
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Dec 17, 2018 22:57:27 GMT
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I want extraction as I like to paint stuff.
To be fair, the end walls are not totally 9" thick, they have 17" wide piers (size of block) to support the lintel for the wall above the doors so there is an 8" bit of wall each side before the return. It's not so much the pier size as much as we went through the plans and he did not mention any need for this size - I did specifically ask him on construction details so I could get the drawings correct.
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If you prefer to paint your own stuff then extraction & air flow through the workshop is critical - but it's also great when working with fume generating process such has welding or warming things up to remove them like seized bolts / bearings etc - it also gives you the flexibility to close the workshop doors when undertaking noisy tasks but still have fresh air running through the workshop.
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Also the end walls are all 9" thick - I was expecting just a pier either side of the door frame. It's ok - but the builder should have advised this need when we went through the plans.