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Having some trouble with my charging system on the old heap.
Get a good (I think, around 15v on a cheap iffy multimeter ) reading on the main cable from the alternator. But by the time it comes through the very chopped and spliced loom it only supply’s a trickle to the battery, showing 12.8/13.04v at the terminals and falls off if you turn electrical equipment on.
Looking at the wiring diagram it says the main cable should go direct to battery with a fuseable link.
Mine has no fuseable link and and crudely splits in two and spurs else where (not managed to trace it any where yet)
Can I simply add a fresh fused line straight between the alternator and the battery to cure the problem? And if so how do you know what gauge cable and fuse etc to us?
Any help would be appreciated
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2018 21:03:52 GMT by ant1303
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 Does any one know what am stands for as well on the ignition switch? |
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Not sure what AM stands for but it’s certainly the feed to the ignition switch.
Any fusible link (the description suggests it could just be a bit of thinner cable spliced into the actual cable...) should be rated to relate to the alternator output. Judging by the vintage I’d guess around the 40-50A mark?
It could be your fusible link has popped.
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45A I believe. Fuseable links are missing all together. Half of the connector is missing and has Been replaced with normal wire on spade connectors. Tried fresh wire there as well to temporarily test with no improvement.
Voltage seems to disappear in the crusty old cable before it reaches that point.
If I can the white cable at the ignition switch I’ll replace the whole thing,
Just unsure on the fuse side of things. The battery is under the drivers seat so I’d rather it didn’t catch fire.
Could I just use some decent stereo amp power cable with the built in blade fuse holders?
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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You’d want at least 4mm2 cable - 6mm2 would be better - but needs to be rated for at least 50A and fused about the same.
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Before you do any of that, what condition is the engine earth in?
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Earths will be checked and cleaned up .The split/spur that’s been played with/butchered seems to be a direct supply to the headlight relay (wherever that might be) from the alternator.
Tempted to really simplify it all with a small blade fuse holder in the battery box. There is already the two wires that are supposed to be fuseable link wires a third wire for the link to the rear leasure battery (currently disconnected) and one other unknown wire crudely connected to the + terminal The later both have in line fuses floating about. Might be worth me getting a 4 blade fuse holder in there and tidying it all up.
At least it should pop a fuse before it torches itself.
Would just need to know what fuses to use on the alternator feed wire and the wire that goes to the ignition switch? (Both currently missing fuseable links)
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  Probably wouldn’t hurt to run that straight to the battery with a fuse as well. The current connection I’ve marked on the diagram is twisted wires and electrical tape. |
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What's the wire marked 2-W spured from the alternator cable?
EDIT: just seen your post. That whole wiring diagram is a mess, I've never seen anything wired up like that before.
Think I would run the headlight relay direct from the battery or a separate ignition relay, and make a new cable from battery to alternator.
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2018 23:14:30 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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What's the wire marked 2-W spured from the alternator cable? EDIT: just seen your post. That whole wiring diagram is a mess, I've never seen anything wired up like that before. Think I would run the headlight relay direct from the battery or a separate ignition relay, and make a new cable from battery to alternator. That’s the plan. Just seen it’s It’s already fused at the dash so I presume I can just extend the cable to the battery terminal and take it out of the charging loom all together. |
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What amps is the alternator rated at?
Where is the leisure battery connected to?
What else is fed from the headlight relay other than the fuse block?
Have you tested the output with the headlight relay removed?
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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45A alternator.
leasure battery is connected through a combi master split charge relay but currently disconnected to rule out a drain that end.
The wires from the head lamp relay other than the 2w spur go to headlamps, acc on ignition switch and lighting switch.
Only found where the spur goes this eve so not tried with it removed yet.
Will give that a go tomorrow.
Whole 2w wire is a mess to be fair so will need replacing so might as well be separate from the headlight wire.
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2018 23:27:03 GMT by ant1303
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What's the wire marked 2-W spured from the alternator cable? EDIT: just seen your post. That whole wiring diagram is a mess, I've never seen anything wired up like that before. Think I would run the headlight relay direct from the battery or a separate ignition relay, and make a new cable from battery to alternator. That’s the plan. Just seen it’s It’s already fused at the dash so I presume I can just extend the cable to the battery terminal and take it out of the charging loom all together. Looking at that diagram it shares the fuseable link with the alternator, so you will need an extra fuse by the battery. But if it were me doing it I would wire in a main relay to control the others, as that diagram gives me the creeps. |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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I only have very basic understanding of car electrics.
If the wiring diagram gives you the creeps you would hate the real thing with 30+ years worth of bodges and additions!
Think I will grab a 4 fuse holder and some fresh cable tomorrow and at least make it safe for now then look at letting someone with more understanding look at better options in the future.
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I only have very basic understanding of car electrics. If the wiring diagram gives you the creeps you would hate the real thing with 30+ years worth of bodges and additions! Think I will grab a 4 fuse holder and some fresh cable tomorrow and at least make it safe for now then look at letting someone with more understanding look at better options in the future. That sounds good, run the headlight relay wire through a 30amp fuse and down to the battery terminal. That will be safe for now, when time permits we can talk you through re-wiring your van safe and properly. I work on alot of horsebox lorries so used to seeing wiring bodges, you would not believe some of what goes on inside those! |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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antni
Part of things
Posts: 423
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Dec 13, 2018 22:29:01 GMT
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All sorted for now.
Fresh direct cable from the alternator with a strip fuse near the battery same for starter motor and a 6 fuse holder with single battery feed tidying up headlights and leasure battery stuff.starts nice and quick, holds its charge, the Dash lights are at least 4 times as bright and I can actually see where I'm going when a car comes the other way now.
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Last Edit: Jan 27, 2019 22:03:32 GMT by antni
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antni
Part of things
Posts: 423
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Feb 12, 2019 22:24:59 GMT
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Anyone Good with carbs? Got a really strong fuel smell coming from around the carb area. Can't locate any leaks and doesn't seem to be coming through the hoses. Smells really strong right by the Carb. Can smell unburnt fuel from about 10 foot away from the van.
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