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I’ve been on holiday for a week in Dorset. errr. stick the leyland truck in reverse a second. you cant just start rover based internet phenomena then go swanning off living your life, what about us? what about the rover ? you have speech bubble notification responsibilities now man. jeez |
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Last Edit: Dec 8, 2018 22:29:01 GMT by darrenh
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Dec 10, 2018 21:26:44 GMT
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Well overdue update time. Here is a crappy photo of the remarkably rust free bulkhead around the area of the servo. The Police car had a hole through the bulkhead here, and the whole of that seem had rust along it.  Before I went away on holiday I stripped down the clutch master cylinder and the brake master cylinder.  Clutch came apart easily and inside showed very little corrosion. It is a perfect candidate for a good clean up and new seal kit, and then it will be serviceable again.  The same couldn't be said for the brake master cylinder. It looked very good to start with, but once I got the innards out, I found pitting corrosion inside. That meant that the new seals wouldn't last long, and really I need to buy a new one. Bummer. Good from the outside  Pitting on the inside  Speaking of buying new parts....I have to say a massive thank you to Jon (BL Nut) off the Rover SD1 club forum. He has supplied me with (and for a very reasonable amount of money) a new windscreen, 4 new doors, a spare alloy wheel, front panel with reinforcer and nearside front wing. That I a load ticked off my list. Particularly please to get a windscreen as its a big chunk that I will be needing quite soon.    I also visited my friend Simon who was scrapping a Vanden Plas EFI. He has already sold the roof and a few chinks from the rear, but a large section of the scuttle panel was sound. So out came Mr Grinder and now I have a donor panel.   I have made recordings of some of this work, but to be honest it really isn't that interesting, so ill probably leave that till ive done something more constructive. |
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vitessetony
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,055
Club RR Member Number: 114
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Thanks for sharing your journey with the SD1, it's all very inspirational, I can't wait to see more!
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Dec 11, 2018 10:57:32 GMT
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Video 4. Not much happens really, just taking stuff apart.
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Dec 11, 2018 13:15:38 GMT
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Not worth robbing the brakes M/C off the gold one?
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Dec 11, 2018 14:52:00 GMT
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Not worth robbing the brakes M/C off the gold one? I had a look but its very crusty. I could end up buying it and being no better off. |
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Dec 11, 2018 22:48:42 GMT
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Did a bit more tonight. I have my welder at work now, in readiness for getting properly stuck in. As a warm up, I thought I would tackle the broken stud for the water pump. Ive been spraying wd40 on the stud fairly regularly. I cleaned it up with a wire wheel on a drill, then some brake cleaner to degrease it. Next I attempted to screw on an m8 nut, but the threads are shafted after attacking it with grips, so I hammered it on. I also fitted a washer between the nut and the engine block, so I didn't actually weld the nut to the engine!  Then I pre heated the stud and nut with a blow torch so that my weld would actually penetrate the stud and not just sit on the surface. Followed by careful welding so I didn't mess up the nut of end up with a big blob of weld over the sides of the nut. I had the welder turned up pretty high for this to get decent heat into the stud. It was glowing cherry red when I finished.  It cooled down a bit while I was trying to find a decent 6 sided socket to go on the nut. Then applied liberal amounts of wd40 again. The moment of truth...put a socket on it and worked it out, then in repeat etc. Came out first time! Very happy with that. Most of the time the first attempt fails and the nut just shears off. Happy as I didnt have to do any drilling or tapping.  |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Yeah, sweet !
Horrible just watching that first movement let alone doing it -is it shearing or moving..... can’t teach the feel either, you only get it after much swearing at shiny metal stumps !
Ref alloy I always do that hot as the alloy expansion is higher so assumed it might open up more. Someone else might know better.
Thanks for sharing.
James
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Ref alloy I always do that hot as the alloy expansion is higher so assumed it might open up more. Someone else might know better. Thanks for sharing. James The alloy does expand but the strength of steel drops dramatically after 500 degrees c so there is a fine balance between the benefits of the expansion and the strength of your weld. Best bet is to let is cool and then heat it with (for instance) a paint stripper, this will expand the alloy but not weaken the steel. |
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Dec 12, 2018 12:12:50 GMT
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bolt success, thats a relief, well done  |
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Dec 12, 2018 12:36:04 GMT
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Excellent job. Just a note on the safety side of things, you look like you are out there alone, make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy, and always have your mobile in your pocket not left in the car, especially when working under the car.
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Dec 12, 2018 15:34:43 GMT
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Excellent job. Just a note on the safety side of things, you look like you are out there alone, make sure you have a fire extinguisher handy, and always have your mobile in your pocket not left in the car, especially when working under the car. Definitely. I will need someone on fire watch when i start welding on the bulkhead, as all the interior trim is still inside! |
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Dec 12, 2018 17:43:32 GMT
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Got the bulkhead insulation panel off the other side. As i was doing this i noticed some crumbly rust dropping out. I felt around the bottom of the bulkhead and my fingers went straight through. OH curse word i thought. Fortunately it was just the lower blanking plate over the redundant LHD steering column hole, and the metal of the bulkhead is good. Its just the top centre section and clutch, master mounting areas that are nasty. Here is the clutch area of the bulkhead at the offside with the paint cleaned off. The rot is at the top. Just minor surface rot lower down.  Nearside insulation removed, to reveal rotten blanking plates. Easy to replace.  This is the lower one which has pretty much dissolved and that i thought was actually part of the bulkhead.  These are the panels them selves. The front surface is a rigid compressed rubber type stuff. Moulded to shape. Its very fragile and just falls apart if you stress it too much. Impossible to find second hand as they require the whole engine bay to be stripped (including column) to get them out without breaking.  My initial plan was to replace them with a modern adhesive backed foam, so thats what i bought. Its oil and flame resistant and covered in a tough black surface.   However i might first try and re constitute the old ones with GRP, or try and take moulds off the old ones??? Not sure how well that is going to work, but probably look neater than the modern foam which probably wont want to fit the curved surfaces without creasing and looking rubbish. |
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Dec 13, 2018 13:35:03 GMT
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Blagh, I nearly brought dinner up the other night watching you get that stud out. Nasty, all well in the end though. Those dashboard blanks look like a nice ( and extremely satisfying ) repair , I was expecting the clutch mounting point to be much worse for some reason. Really enjoying this, carry on.  |
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Dec 13, 2018 17:27:27 GMT
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However i might first try and re constitute the old ones with GRP, or try and take moulds off the old ones??? Not sure how well that is going to work, but probably look neater than the modern foam which probably wont want to fit the curved surfaces without creasing and looking rubbish. Would some heat help with forming the new foam? You have it now, may as well give it a go before trying to repair the old ones, unless repairing the originals would be preferable anyway. |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Dec 13, 2018 18:46:18 GMT
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However i might first try and re constitute the old ones with GRP, or try and take moulds off the old ones??? Not sure how well that is going to work, but probably look neater than the modern foam which probably wont want to fit the curved surfaces without creasing and looking rubbish. Would some heat help with forming the new foam? You have it now, may as well give it a go before trying to repair the old ones, unless repairing the originals would be preferable anyway. Also - is this a working car or a concours one ? Solid metal and presentable vs lots of time making as perfect as we know you can. Laws of diminishing returns ? Pleanty of other things to crack on with. James |
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Dec 13, 2018 18:57:35 GMT
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Jim - On the Javelins I cut new bulkhead sound deadening from a sheet of Hardura faced felt - it has a slight grain to it - can be shaped easily over panels and glued into place if required - its not exactly what you have on the Rover but it's has close has and is very durable and can be used in engine bays etc  From memory it came from Woolies: www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1206/heavy-hardura-black |
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Dec 13, 2018 20:58:58 GMT
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Jim - On the Javelins I cut new bulkhead sound deadening from a sheet of Hardura faced felt - it has a slight grain to it - can be shaped easily over panels and glued into place if required - its not exactly what you have on the Rover but it's has close has and is very durable and can be used in engine bays etc From memory it came from Woolies: www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1206/heavy-hardura-blackGreat minds and all that. That is what I used on the inside of the bulkhead on the police car and yes it came from Woolies. |
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Dec 13, 2018 22:55:43 GMT
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An so it continues. Continuing with the bulkhead panels. I was in need of fibreglass and expert advice, so I went to visit Alan the incredible and his farm cats. Aland helped me with the spoilers for the Police car (the cats weren't so much help). I love Alan's workshop. Cool car stuff hanging around, including these pistons engraved with Le Mans winner 1972!      Stocked with chopped strand GRP, resin in coffee jars, catalyst and PVA mould release agent I returned to work to start experimenting. My initial plan was to stabilise the original bulkhead panels, then take moulds off them. I was then going to make new parts in the moulds. However that would have taken ages and probably would have been over kill. SO now I am making thin skins off the front. Then ill sand the worst of the bumpy bits down and paint it in textured black bumper paint, then overcoat that with satin. Ill then fit new foam to the rear side and all should be good. This was the process. First stabilised the panels with aluminium tape. Then covered in wood furniture wax, followed by proper PVA release agent. Then a few layers of chopped strand. In total, probably took me 3 hours after work. Wasn't so bad as my mate Luke was fiddling with his motorbike, so we got Domino's and generally chilled out working on our projects. Before  Umm blue coffee  Resin and weave slapped on  After  Ta Da!  Video |
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Is the brake MC the same as the one used in the later Minis known as the yellow tag MC?
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