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Another good video Jim and a great explanation of everything. Please keep them coming. I came across the You tube tutorial on the replacement of the LT77 Oring. I have done a few LT77 and like Pete, i also thought that your explenation in spot on. No curse word stories, all usefull information and could be very helpfull
Keep up the good work Peter
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A good instructive video, also worth pointing out its preety easily done with the box still in the car, remove the prop, gearstick, speedo cable and rear x member, disconnect the exhaust,drop the back of the box down and away you go,
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Always look forward to your videos Jim - found the latest one really interesting. Great work! What do you do for a living?
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Here is a link to the video. I was planning on refitting the box, but my daily has developed a problem so I’ve been investigating that instead.
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it looks like you have hit the nail on the head with the problem on the BM Jim.
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It's a moot point now that it's back together, but if there was wear on the selector shaft, couldn't you measure up the OD for the rest of the shaft, build up the worn section with welds, then machine it to the measure OD?
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It's a moot point now that it's back together, but if there was wear on the selector shaft, couldn't you measure up the OD for the rest of the shaft, build up the worn section with welds, then machine it to the measure OD? Yes you could. I think some people have done that, or just replaced the section of bar. Most of the slop is in those thin walled bearings so I just swapped them. |
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i remember reading that these boxes ran on auto box fluid due to that internal oil pump needing low viscosity, and that atf isnt really great in a high sheer environment. i wondered if there is something more suitable from this century which is backwards compatible ? i know the R380 used MTF, but same question really? or is it just a case of more frequent oil changes
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i remember reading that these boxes ran on auto box fluid due to that internal oil pump needing low viscosity, and that atf isnt really great in a high sheer environment. i wondered if there is something more suitable from this century which is backwards compatible ? i know the R380 used MTF, but same question really? or is it just a case of more frequent oil changes I believe it depends a bit in which car brand the LT77 was. In the Rover cars auto box fluid was specified but some Jaguar XJ6 were also equiped with the LT77 and i was told a thicker oil was specified. Which oil to use is a frequent discussed topic. I have an LT77 in my MGB V8 conversion for over 10 years now and it works very well without issues
I recently overhauled one for a friend who build it into a Jag XK140 with using an adapter plate.
A note to Jim; i replaced the fiber oil pump gears by steel ones on all boxes i overhauled
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Gearbox is back in after a bit of a fight, and the rain. Oh to have a 4 post lift!
I was thinking about the steel pump gears, but I don’t like the steel on ally combo. I know it would probably be fine, and v8 oil pump gears are steel in ally cover, but I’ve just reused the originals.
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do the clutch forks suffer from the punching through syndrome like land rover ? (where the ball wears through the socket and busts through) rainy days would be perfect time to reinforce
copper grease isnt a great lubricant for moving parts, if that soudns backwards enough. its designed to make static components not seize up. i would probably use moly grease for lubing, although it always felt counter intuitive to me on the release bearing as it ends up like a honey trap for clutch dust. not sure what to recommend, dry graphite lube ?
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do the clutch forks suffer from the punching through syndrome like land rover ? (where the ball wears through the socket and busts through) rainy days would be perfect time to reinforce copper grease isnt a great lubricant for moving parts, if that sounds backwards enough. its designed to make static components not seize up. i would probably use moly grease for lubing, although it always felt counter intuitive to me on the release bearing as it ends up like a honey trap for clutch dust. not sure what to recommend, dry graphite lube ? Yes the can wear through. Also the balls on the end of the pivot can break off. Thats mostly down to abuse though. Plus land rovers have the bigger diameter clutches and flywheels, so the forks probably have a bigger spring to work against and have a harder life. The other thing i have seen with these is that people weld a flat plate across the backside of the pressed fork to stiffen it. Again i think that is more a land rover thing. Early SD1's seem to have a much flimsier fork, with shallower webs, which likely flex more. Being a later car, this one has the chunky fork so i don't anticipate and problems. I don't like using proper grease, as when it heats up it goes everywhere! I like the copper as it seems to stay put. |
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Mega Doh!
Gearbox is shafted ☹️
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Jim - If its any consolation my day also went wayward with the Corsair  |
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what a bummer, man. its not the gear oil, right? I mean, it is a later gear box...so ATF is the right stuff....
great to see it moving, though, at least the system is working...you will get there in the end!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Good work though, is it a common gearbox? |
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Jun 10, 2019 10:21:23 GMT
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Moly grease is stable with heat, ive blow torched it once as a test lol. Deffo stay away from LM or whatever
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Jun 10, 2019 11:22:01 GMT
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Might be an idea to try running it through all the gears with the back wheels off the ground, might give you a better idea of what is causing it if it behaves differently in some gears, also does it change if you apply load to the clutch pedal could also try it without the prop to rule out prop and diff.
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Jun 10, 2019 12:55:25 GMT
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I can hardly believe that is caused by the box internals, especially if the input shaft cannot be moved around much. That is a clear sign of the state of the gearbox
I like Kevins suggestion and this would lead to a bit more information. It could also be the clutch bearing or the propshaft touching the shifting mechanism
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Jun 10, 2019 13:29:16 GMT
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There are two main clutch pressure plate types that can be fitted to the series1 3.8 E type one with flat fingers and one with radius fingers and each type can be fitted but they each will only work with a certain type release bearing, I cannot remember which type goes with which but I do remember one is long and one is short and if you screw up and fir the wrong one it will work but make a sound similar to the one you have.
I think I'm sorry to say you have a similar problem Jim.
So many variations and not much documentation to back it up.
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