|
|
|
May 21, 2019 10:05:56 GMT
|
I can't really figure out why they wouldn't fit. They probably could be made to fit by someone with some basic engineering chops (ie not me) but I've never heard of anyone else using them so I'm not going to take a chance at that price. Trunnions are a perpetual worry for me on my car. No idea how old mine are, how bad condition they are in. I just keep greasing them (apparently oil is better but *shrugs*). I have never removed the bottom bolt to check for play and I probably should, but I'm more inclined to just buy a new set this summer and then I don't have to worry about them anymore. It just looks like a bit of fettling to the bottom arms could make them fit. By the time you have taken the bottom bolts out and checked you may aswell replace for new ones at the same time. Its peace of mind for £96 |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Full day free to play with the car on Saturday, started by pulling everything out of the workshop and cleaning the whole place, I hate working in dust and dirt. Levelled the chassis out on axle stands at a nice height to work on and got a few bits bolted back on, top front wishbones, ARB and steering rack. The steering rack doesn't have anything between the mounting brackets and the chassis, surely that will give off some vibrations? Next up is to make some spacers to lower the front lower shock mounting plate to get the front end down lower.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My rack on my car is solid mounted, can't say I can tell the difference.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
My rack on my car is solid mounted, can't say I can tell the difference. Good to know, it looks like that was how it was designed, can't say I have ever heard anyone complain of vibration either. Probably just over thinking it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yep.
Rally boys swap our the ford rubbers for ally blocks for a more positive feel and rally cars take a pounding.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
hi there
I have run and repaired scimitars for 30 years and never had any issues with the rack being a solid mount.
Cheers - mike
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
hi there I have run and repaired scimitars for 30 years and never had any issues with the rack being a solid mount. Cheers - mike Good to know, Thanks Mike. |
| |
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
|
|
|
|
Difficult to be 100% sure from the angle but I think your top wishbones are the wrong way round? The arm with the bigger “crank angle” goes to the front.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Difficult to be 100% sure from the angle but I think your top wishbones are the wrong way round? The arm with the bigger “crank angle” goes to the front. So the deeper arm goes towards the front of the car and the shallower one to the rear? I went off a drawing I had seen online but you will be more knowledgable on that so I will swap them over. |
| |
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
|
|
|
Yep - Non-PAS SE6a have them the other way round so you may have seen a drawing of one of them.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yep - Non-PAS SE6a have them the other way round so you may have seen a drawing of one of them. Yeah that must be it, I have it on my list to just swap each side over at the weekend rather than splitting them from the ball joint |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2019 10:31:09 GMT
|
I finally got a full day in the unit to myself, I got down there nice and early, no one needing a "quick hand" with something that turns into a 4 hour job. I wanted to get the front shock mounting plate sitting lower to bring the front end of the car down lower than most coilovers will go especially with the scimitars huge arch gap as standard.(I will be putting some nice protech adjustables on but they only go so low) I had seen a few cars running spacers between the plate and lower wish bones in varying quality but the general feeling seems to be they do the job so that was Saturday's job. I got lengths of 25mmx25mm solid steel bar, cut down to rough size then marked up and ground into a better shape with a flappy disk. I didnt just want a square steel bar stuck in there so curved the edges to follow the lines of the wishbone and then drilled holes in line with the wishbone and shock plate. Painted black and fitted on with new longer bolts    I then fitted the top wish bones, ball joint and lower set up as well as the upgright and steering arm. I am using the old shock/springs for now till I get the spring size, rate etc sorted and order the new ones. Ignore the old trunions and lack of fitting bolts etc it was just to get everything into place before the new ones arrive.   Next step is new trunions fitted and then new bearings and add hub etc. Leaving the brakes off for now, a new willwood set up will be going on at some point but no sense ordering them to either sit in a box for a few months or be fitted and scratched while I mess on building engine mounts etc. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Not much of an update but I felt like I needed to do something this weekend to feel like the car is making some form of progress. Dragged the axle into place and mounted the trailing arms in place Just to get a rough idea of spacing and working out if the cross memeber in the middle of the chassis is going to stop play with the driveshaft between the box and the rear diff. looks ok so far. Annoyingly the full polybush Kit I ordered came without the ARB bushes and the trailing arm bushes. Super pro said they don't sell many so get made to order and the lead time would be 4-6 weeks. That was ok because I had the rest of the front suspension to do. Now it is 6 weeks later and they haven't even been made yet! they still need to make there way from Australia too!!  In a more positive not I have changed plans with the gearbox, the original plan was to use an RX8 box as there is a couple of saab transplants running them and they seem to hold up ok. nice and cheap to buy etc however its a Frankenstein of adapter plate, clutches, modifying forks etc so if the box does getting blown to bits on the first burnout then its not as simple as just sticking a new one in. I then went towards an Omega R25-28 box but although it bolts straight up there's the same issue of it being around its limit of power. Instead I am going to stop being so cheap and do it right! I am collecting a 5 speed ZF gearbox from an E39 530D this coming weekend, I will drop it straight off at my local gearbox guy for a freshen up and I will bite the bullet and order this kit... pmcmotorsport.com/stage-1-adapter-kit-saab-h-engine-bmw-m57-gs5-39dz.htmlIts not cheap at around £800 but it means a simple job of sticking box and engine together and is good for 650NM of torque so will be fine in my 1000/1100kg car with stick tyres and around 350bhp. Plus it means I can be a hooligan without worrying about the box. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2019 12:04:39 GMT
|
|
I agree, I bought what I thought was a strong 9" diff for the Ford axle I have, blew the gears out in about 1000 miles.
Stumped up the £1000 for a 'proper' strong one and 4,000 miles of abuse later it's fine.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jun 24, 2019 12:33:00 GMT
|
I agree, I bought what I thought was a strong 9" diff for the Ford axle I have, blew the gears out in about 1000 miles. Stumped up the £1000 for a 'proper' strong one and 4,000 miles of abuse later it's fine. I am round to that way of thinking now, I just don't want to have to go for less sticky tyres or a little less power because I skimped on the box. |
| |
|
|
scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
|
|
Jun 24, 2019 13:33:27 GMT
|
|
Unless you’re going full race, it’s generally thought that poly on the rear is overkill and transmits a lot of noise into the cabin - possibly because of the 4 link and watts linkage, they can transmit a lot of noise on standard rubber bushes, which is why they have such a reputation for noisy diffs.
|
| |
|
|
Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
|
|
Jun 24, 2019 19:49:40 GMT
|
|
They might seem noisy (due to the fact they’re so well mounted as standard) but the only 4HA’s I recall ending up spread all over the road have been ones without (or with more water than oil) lubrication.
|
| |
|
|
Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
|
|
Jun 24, 2019 19:52:40 GMT
|
|
As to the €800 for the gearbox conversion kit, that’s not that bad for a fit-and-forget in my mind.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Unless you’re going full race, it’s generally thought that poly on the rear is overkill and transmits a lot of noise into the cabin - possibly because of the 4 link and watts linkage, they can transmit a lot of noise on standard rubber bushes, which is why they have such a reputation for noisy diffs. It isnt full race more of a race car that I can drive to a track day sort of thing. I had heard poly on the rear can transmit extra noise, I was going to add some sound deadening across the entire interior floor anyway to dull some of it. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
As to the €800 for the gearbox conversion kit, that’s not that bad for a fit-and-forget in my mind. That was my thought and after speaking to the company that supplies them who couldn't have been more helpful that made me much happier about it. I would rather pay more and be able to pick up the phone to get an answer to a question than save the money and have to work it all out myself. That time could be spent working out the dozens of other things still left to do on the car. |
| |
|
|
|
|
