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I've been reading the book this afternoon and now I have a much better understanding of the way it works. The engine doesn't turn the fluid coupling directly. Instead it drives a reduction gear set that is 1.45:1 reduction, lockable to no reduction. The output of that drives the fluid coupling. The output of the fluid coupling is sent into a second lockable reduction gear of 2.63:1 - with both gears in reduction the additive reduction is 3.82:1. So, 4 ratios of R1+R2, R2, R1, direct. The output goes through the reverse gear drive, which, when selected simply reverses the direction of the output shaft. If it weren't physically locked to 1st gear it would have 4 speeds in reverse also...  Checked the endfloat of the torus driven shaft and it's.. just kinda borderline. It'll do for now. Phil |
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2019 0:44:54 GMT by PhilA
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If you were to adjust the endplay, would that be done with shims? And involve opening up the "core" of the trans? And that's something you'd rather not have to curse word around with? Cheers, John
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Yeah, it's shim adjustment on the far end of the shaft. It's fallen into the "next major service" list.
Phil
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Jul 31, 2019 11:20:23 GMT
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Looking at the manual, I may end up having to pull it all apart anyway; I'm not sure if the shims are available though.
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Jul 31, 2019 11:32:37 GMT
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I would replaace the bearings first which is likely to be a conical one. If these are normal bearing, these will not be so expensive and it could well be that the endfloat out of tolerance is caused by bearing wear.
I have overhaul a few LT77 which are also known for their endfloat being out of tolerance and after replacing the bearing, the endfloat was oke with the standard shim on 2 out of 3 boxes
Your are doing great work and are very diverse which is fun to read so keep up the good work and thanks for posting
Peter
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Jul 31, 2019 12:53:11 GMT
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Oddly no; the main shaft (smallest diameter shaft in the center) is supported by a plain roller ball bearing at the back where it has the rear epicyclic reduction gear- the rear nose of that sits in a hole that provides no lateral support, only endfloat.
Changing that bronze thrust washer sets the endfloat, the torus end is supported by a plain ball bearing washer in the flywheel.
Being epicyclic most of the big loads are contained within the sun/planet gear sets, the rest all being torques within the shafts and the shafts simply having to be held in line, so the bearings don't wear as quickly as in a conventional manual gearbox; obviously the LT77 is similar but it seems the end loads are different- the other shafts have bearings to accept the load from the torque converter (which imparts a greater lengthwise load on the shaft than the fluid coupling does, from what I can see).
--Phil
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2019 13:00:50 GMT by PhilA
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Jul 31, 2019 15:22:35 GMT
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Like the old radio, very much beyond my skillset.
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Jul 31, 2019 16:01:47 GMT
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Thanks. That's not going to be complete before the car hits the road.. but it'll end up in there eventually.
--Phil
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Jul 31, 2019 18:07:18 GMT
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Like the old radio, very much beyond my skillset. nice diversionary tactic away from gearbox voodoo... ;-) |
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Jul 31, 2019 18:25:18 GMT
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Quite the opposite; the car will run and drive without the radio. The same cannot be said of the gearbox.
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Jul 31, 2019 18:58:29 GMT
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Quite the opposite; the car will run and drive without the radio. The same cannot be said of the gearbox. sorry...i meant the brain ache that a gear box internals create...not the essential role it performs in transporting horses to the rear. mind you.I'm lost with all electrickery inside the radio too!!! |
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Jul 31, 2019 19:33:11 GMT
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haha gotcha
Nah, the gearbox I don't mind, the radio is more therapeutic to me to work on. Some people like jigsaw puzzles, some people like crosswords. I enjoy this.
--Phil
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Jul 31, 2019 22:10:06 GMT
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Radiator place took a look at the radiator. Apparently it's an unconventional design and is completely borked. Recore $900 because it's a hueg thing.
I think a $150 aluminum radiator for a similar year Chevy truck is gonna be the answer here...
Phil
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I can't find any radiators that fit. There are a few listed that are similar size but the pipe fitment is all wrong.
So, I'm going to clean the thing up, try determine where it's leaking and solder it up just for now.
Phil
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Last Edit: Aug 1, 2019 6:20:49 GMT by wildrover
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There are times when original parts just price themself out the market.
Looks like you need to be sensible and find an alternative that allows you to still have dinner.
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There are times when original parts just price themself out the market. Looks like you need to be sensible and find an alternative that allows you to still have dinner. agreed. i just wish we still had a local rad shop! |
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating
'80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip
'97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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The only one that'll just about work there is the Wizard Cooling one in terms of shape and radiator hose size- and even then it would require modification because it has no spigot for the heater return (there's a drain cock where it would need to be, drain is on the front on mine). At just over 3" thick it may actually foul the fan- this one is 2" thick with an overhang at the top of 3½" but that's not in the fan swept area.  The guy priced the correct core- it's not a tubes-into-plate style one like later radiators, this is all cross woven brass plates that are stamped into tube halves and soldered together. He said that's truck levels of cooling. The core is $460 plus he said about 6 hours to rebuild it. If it was a '55 Bel Air it would have been about $250 all in... I'm just going to attempt to effect a repair on the thing and see if I can make it better. Phil |
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Last Edit: Aug 1, 2019 12:28:52 GMT by PhilA
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Okay, partial success.  Someone had thrown cold lead at the radiator cap spigot and then hammered at it a little. Or at least, it looked like that.  So, I heated it up and pulled it off. Much corrosion.  Cleaned it up, added flux.  Soldered in place. Doesn't leak now. The gas torch I have has a flame that's too wide.  I fixed one leak And started to chase it out. I have bought a torch with a narrow flame- hopefully I can heat up, bend open the fins, clean the surfaces and then solder closed. Phil |
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Last Edit: Aug 2, 2019 0:58:06 GMT by PhilA
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 Bought a small torch with an adjustable fine flame.  Pried the fins up, cleaned them as well as I could and added flux.  Not the tidiest job ever but we'll see tomorrow if it holds pressure. I hope so but am not holding out mega hope for it. Phil |
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Last Edit: Aug 2, 2019 2:36:39 GMT by PhilA
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