Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771 
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Well, that wasn't in the script! I went to work and ended up being stuck away from home for 3 months so zero progress made. I recently managed to get a couple of weeks at home, so it was full speed ahead on the Brat. Which as I'm sure you can imagine, the enemy indoors was over the moon with.  So, when I had it running before, I had noticed that when it was hot and I gave it a good rev a small amount of coolant wept from the header tank overflow. The WRX originally had an additional plastic overflow tank fitted but I was hoping to get away without one but the more I thought about it I realised that I'd better make it as correct as possible to prevent issues further down the line. Now, as usual space is the issue, where the hell am I going to fit it? After a lot of looking on the net, photos I had taken on my phone and some guesswork, as at this point I was still away so couldn't measure up the available space I ordered a wedge shaped alloy tank from the states that ended up costing about 3 times what it was worth due to the duties, exchange rate etc. I could've got one made in the UK for less but it was all time. I had in mind that it would fit between the battery and the strut tower on the offside so the first task when I got back to it was to see if it would. After a bit of headscratching and installing a couple of Rivnuts it does fit, just.  So that was plumbed in, topped up and a new cap fitted on the engine header tank just to be sure. I'm quite happy that I've managed to fit a battery, header tank and an airfilter in the space where only the battery once was.  Next up was trying to find a spot to mount the bracket which holds the boost control solenoids etc. This was originally mounted to the inner wing on the WRX and I reckoned it would fit ok onto the strut tower, as long as it clears the bonnet. The strut top also had a couple of handy lugs which I could use. I removed the solenoids and sensors from the bracket, hacked off any excess metal work and offered it up to the strut top, looking pretty good I welded on some lugs and gave it a quick paint up. Happy enough with that...   It does restrict access slightly to the master cylinder but not too bad. You will also notice that the loom has had a bit of a tidy up in the background, not finished yet but enough to get it in a driving condition. Getting closer to a test drive at this point so to be safe I thought I'd better install some safety measures I'd bought. As the car was now de-catted with a barely there exhaust and a K&N I wasn't sure how it would run. Going by the donor car, it had hardly been pampered in it's recent life and had a 100k on the clock so I wanted to give it every chance of not melting a piston by being too lean within the first 10 miles. Live AFR readout was installed (2x new Lambda sensors install in the exhaust, 1x for the ECU and 1x for this) Knocklight was installed and, as above, 2x new sensors, however at this point I was waiting for wire so that's why the wires are wrapped around the cig lighter out of the way. And of course, the obligatory boost gauge.  Couldn't help myself....  A final, pre-flight check underneath and a quick wheel alignment, it's not perfect but will do for now..  Test drive time  ........................... |
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2020 9:23:53 GMT by Ritchie
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Onto the test drive, firstly it drives really nicely compared to how it used to. I'm really happy with the power steering, it just transforms it, as it was really heavy before. The gearshift is really good aswell, as I re-bushed the mechanism before I installed it and it has a short shift kit installed. The brakes are excellent, I had read that they might need a hard push due to using the WRX master cylinder with the small truck servo but they are good, and will lock the wheels no problem at all. There is a small buzz / vibration from underneath when engine braking, something is touching somewhere and look later on confirms this to be the tail of the gearbox touching the anti-roll bar. Remember those drop brackets I made? They might need a tweak, or more than likely the die grinder will get fired up. It rides firm at the front but it's far too bouncy at the rear, I'll get back to this as there are issues that need addressed. So, I stop for a quick check, no leaks, temps ok, nothing on fire. Time to give it some beans, then this happened... Initially I though it was overboosting due to the aforementioned changes, however I soon saw that it was more like a rev limit, and I had an engine check light on. Back to base for investigation. It turns out that randomly some of these need a vehicle speed signal to the ECU, I had wrongly presumed that mine didn't. This normally comes from the electronic speedo drive in the box, I can't use this as my mechanical speedo cable is plugged in there. This is an issue that the VW guys often have with Sub conversions into VW buses but there are bespoke solutions that they can use, specific pickups that attach to the speedo heads or cables, none that I can use. After some further research I decided to buy one of these to give it a go, an inductive prox sensor switch. This doesn't require a magnetic pickup and my aim was to pickup on the diff flange bolts.  I knocked up a bracket to mount it on the diff bolts (sorry no pics) which was easy, as I still had the old truck diff which is the same housing. This saved me crawling about underneath it and I could do it on the bench. The good thing about this prox is that it has an LED which lights up when it is sensing, this meant that I could install it and power it up on the bench, adjust as required and check that it was working. Then it was just a case of bolting it up to the truck diff, double checking the clearance (less that 5mm from the bolt) and wire it in. Test drive take 2. Firstly I reset the ECU to ensure everything was clear. Woooaahh, this is a bit different, no management light on and it turns out that not only was the rev limit in place before, it was also in limp mode. It's quick, AFR readout looks good, certainly not running lean, perfect. It's loud, I mean realllly loud, so much so I was basically idling it whenever I saw anyone so as much as the side exit is cool, and it cost a bit in stainless pipe, it'll have to go. I want to get it MOT'd in the meantime so I knocked up what we call in bike circles a "Db Killer"  I wrapped some steel wool round it, stuffed it up the exhaust and bolted in it, now it sounds like a standard Fiesta, that'll work for now. As long as it doesn't fly out on the way to the MOT. |
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Next up I managed to get it booked in for a test, did the usual lights, wipers kick the tyres, chanting dancing around the car, telling Santa I'll be good for the rest of the year etc. It only bloody passed! The bemusement on the testers face was quite amusing, the only advisory was a windscreen chip which I knew about. The Db killer was severely restrictive and it wouldn't even boost properly so it was straight back to kerbside motors to get her jacked up and the side exit ripped off. I had a classic Impreza Prodrive backbox lying around that I had bought ages ago just for this very scenario so that was installed with a straight bit of pipe and some bracket alterations, sorry no pics of underneath.  Sounds nice, much better and looks ok. Now, at this point I know you will be wondering why there is no video of it going full banana. Hmm, well I did give it full banana quite a few times until the final time where that was a rather large bang, a fair bit of vibration and I lost drive to one rear wheel. It had popped the outer CV out on the rear nearside. Now, this is odd, as that is one of the few things that has not really been messed about with by me on this thing, its a factory joint as you only need to swap the inner cups over to fit the WRX diff. I pulled the boot off, and couldn't really see any damage, just the clip had come adrift, so I re-installed it and the boot but it did it again. It's still driveable and it just pops straight back in again, but whenever you give it any serious pedal it just pops out and you lose drive. I have a few theories why this has happened, 1. Its too low, the shafts were angled up slightly but I wouldn't say excessively. These things get jacked up and battered over all sorts of ground in Oz so I can't really see that being the issue. 2. The joint was knackered anyway, unlikely as these things are usually front wheel drive. I'd bet that that joint has spent the last 30-odd years being pulled along. 3. The bushes are knackered and allowing the trailing arm to move out under power, letting the joint pop out. Possible, however none of the bushes look too bad. So after this happened, I was still using it, I raised it slightly but it didn't make any difference, possibly because the damage to the joint has already been done. Anyway, it rides loads better with it raised a bit, it wasn't on the bump stops but I think the shocks were bottoming. I've since learned that Volvo 240 shocks can be fitted and are shorter so will prevent this. You can also get uprated torsion bars from the states, which I might get. I received a new driveshaft but I didn't get a chance to fit it. In the meantime, I sprayed the front bumper with some bumper texture paint and the grill and headlight surrounds with some satin black.  Here it is at work, really glad to have it back, it's so handy.  Anyway I'm away from it again so you might get an update at Christmas.  The next plan is obviously sort out this shaft issue. I think I'm going to stick a pair of Recaros in it, those MX5 seats are shoite and you slide all over the place. A new carpet then onto the cosmetic exterior stuff, I also have a roll bar to install. Might turn the boost up. A bit. |
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thomfr
Part of things
Trying to assemble the Duett again..
Posts: 694
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Great build and story! Thanks for going through the development steps, fun to read. Enjoy your work and stay safe.
Thom
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73' Alfa Giulia Super
64' Volvo Duett
65' Volvo Duett
67' Volvo Amazon 123GT
09' Ford Focus 1.8
20' VW ID4
71' Benelli Motorella
65' Cyrus Speciaal
The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys
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mat88
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,542
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This is brilliant, if all the ones for sale in the UK weren't made of cornflakes I'd love one!!
Slight side note but were did you get the oval tube? I'm going to need some for my exhaust but struggling to find it.
Cheers
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Huzzah ! (Apart from the driveshaft issue obvs.)
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neil79
Part of things
Posts: 141
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This is fantastic, i very much look forward to seeing it flying around Aberdeenshire!
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ARGH!!!! THE NOISE IS SOOOOO GOOOOOOOD!!!!!!!! I love this build man, so good!
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Jul 14, 2020 16:41:47 GMT
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ARGH!!!! THE NOISE IS SOOOOO GOOOOOOOD!!!!!!!! I love this build man, so good! Thanks, hopefully this driveshaft issue is easily sorted out. |
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Hi all, just a brief update on this.
After doing quite a bit or research I discovered that some of the later Subarus had a deeper driveshaft cup, but only by about 8-10mm.
I ordered a couple up, installed one on that side, along with the 3 prong inner joint which required some die grinder action on the inner end of the splined hole as it was slightly thicker and I couldn't get the circlip on. It seems fine now.
A bonus is, that the joint is actually a bit beefier so should stand more abuse.
Unfortunately I had very limited time on it so I didn't get anymore done but it got a good thrashing around for a week with no real issues, just an occasional misfire at high RPMs which will need further investigation.
Next things to do are fit the larger joint to the offside and tidy up the interior and exterior.
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Last Edit: Nov 9, 2020 13:55:48 GMT by Ritchie
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perf
Part of things
Posts: 37
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Nov 11, 2020 18:32:29 GMT
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Always like Brat. Nice to see one lowered
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Last Edit: Nov 11, 2020 18:33:46 GMT by perf
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Misfire might be a coil pack starting to give up the ghost.
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Nov 13, 2020 16:09:18 GMT
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Misfire might be a coil pack starting to give up the ghost. Thanks Nudger, I wasn’t sure as Soobs are new to me but I had read that somewhere. It only seems to do it occasionally under longer full throttle openings. It feels like it goes off a cylinder and can be felt on medium throttle after it appears then it will stop doing it just as suddenly as it started. I’ll buy some new coil packs to try. Cheers. |
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Ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 771
Club RR Member Number: 12
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Subaru Brat WRX.Ritchie
@ritchie
Club Retro Rides Member 12
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Hello all, just a small update. I managed to get some time on this to sort out the cosmetics, It's always they same isn't it, as soon as a project is on the road it just gets driven and the motivation disappears. Anyway, the Brats been running great, I took the time to machine polish it, which is possibly a bit daft given the paint condition and the amount of scuffs and scratches on it but it makes it a decent 10 footer anyway. I finished off the front bumper which meant plugging the old over rider holes with 8mm plastic trim plugs, fitting some plastic grill material into the removed indicator holes and tinting the side running lights which are now wired and used as LED side repeaters.  As the back bumper was pretty bashed up I decided to remove it altogether. UK trucks don't have this full bumper, only the quarter pieces but it looks a lot cleaner with the whole lot removed. I also fitted a motorbike tail tidy with an LED numberplate light. A UK spec foglight was fitted in the old bumper mount hole and a spare cover painted to match and fitted in the other side to replace the one with the hole for the bracket in this pic. I also installed some LED clear round indicators in the old bumper bracket mounting holes. A tidy improvement I think.   Previously I had sprayed the stainless bed trim satin black but this was now all flaking off and looked terrible so I decided satin black wrap was the way to go, I did everything expect the screen trim whic I might do yet. This was a nightmare of a job but really worth it as it looks a lot better.  The young lads bikes a perfect fit in the back, full size one, not so much.  I had always wanted to fit a roll bar in the back, however original fit ones are very hard to get and IMO don't actually look that good as the are quite high. I stumble across a cheap adjustable roll bar kit designed for use inside a car, a bit plop and for show really but I thought I could make something out of it. I measured it all out and welded it where it needed to be, dummy buildup..  I would like to get this powder coated when it's finished, however given the current restrictions it's not very easy, I might just paint it for now. One day this will maybe get into the "Showcase" section , I still have the interior to finish. |
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Last Edit: Apr 9, 2021 7:43:52 GMT by Ritchie
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Drizz
Part of things
Posts: 337
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Awesome!
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MGF VVC 160
MG Midget
Metro Turbo
200 BRM
Range Rover Classic TD5
Discovery Premium 300TDi
Defender 90
Rover 420 GSi Sport Turbo
Discovery Extreme 300TDi
Range Rover P38
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tom13
Part of things
Posts: 571
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Is this my favorite car on retro rides? I think it just well could be.
Love it! Front bumper looks ace, especially with those inserts.
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jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 689
Club RR Member Number: 121
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Subaru Brat WRX.jmsheahan
@jmsheahan
Club Retro Rides Member 121
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So f*cking cool, one of my fav builds on here too, looks (and goes) amazing! Got the speed sensor issue to address on my Subaru conversion so thanks for the tips from your write up |
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Only just seen this thread, read it start to finish and love the build!
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