One for the Aircooled VW gurus "full flow oil system"

Right, I've asked the guys and this is their answer:

"He needs a full flow oil cover, a pump with the outlet blocked off, remote filter housing and I’d recommend a thermostat as well.

Then it just needs plumbing from the pump cover, to the filter, then from the filter to the thermostat, then off the thermostat to the cooler, back to the thermostat and to the case. He can leave both oil relief valves in."

Some of this depends on how the block has been drilled. Regarding the oil cover:

"Depends how it’s been done, but if only the top oil gallery has been tapped, you need a full flow cover and a blocked pump outlet. If the lower gallery has been tapped as well then just a stock pump can be used."

Using an oil filter with a bypass valve built in is recommended too. Mann filters tend to have them as do Purflux, Mahle and Coopers IME. Mann tell you on their website which filters have them and which don't. From a decent specialist I'd imagine they'd tell you if they did have them. Failure to get a filter without a bypass valve will result in the oil seal rupturing on the filter due to excess pressure.

I've already looked into it. The choices available are all from Machine 7 bar the Fram equivalent.

Fram HP1 Performance - Bypass Pressure 1.5Bar
Mann W940/1 - HP1 Equivalent 1.2 Bar
Mann W719/5 - Alternative. 2.5 Bar

The HP1 types have a larger oil capacity.

Hi
the whole build is based on reliability durability and drive ability 

I have two reasons for moving the dog house oil cooler 
1) better cooling : if I go for a remote cooler I can go bigger and either duct it or run a fan So more efficient under any condition
2) space : it messes up the flow line of the engine I'm trying to do away with stock tin work and go for a lower down draft fan set up so I can make it more compact 
i want to use a conventional alternator so that means I can't run the stock fan 

I know what your thinking 
why am I making unnecessary work for myself when I can just replace the dynamo with a alternator and still run stock fan and tin

well I still need to get an A/C pump on there and a superchager

that also means I need to find a home for an intercooler/charge cooler and condensor so space is of the essence
build spec is 2110 force induction on stand alone ecu
I'm aiming for a low rpm high torque reliable engine 
something me and the wife can just jump in turn the key and drive to Cornwall at motorway speeds for 6 hours without worrying it's not going to make it 
as if we was in a VW T5





if you have any ideas that may help me on my impossible guest feel free to throw them my way
as I mentioned at the start this will be my first air cooled VW so any help would be appreciated 

Bang on with bore and stroke
From what I've read 90.5 is the biggest bore you can go before you loose cooling surface area so that sounded safe to me

Plan A was to go twin Superchager's I have two from a VW polo but that was shelved due to lack of space
I still may go turbo as that's an area I'm more familiar with but Superchaged will fit the build requirements better
Each has its own headaches to work around


My parts stock pile is nearly ready

It should work! The oil system on my 2007 (78 x 90.5) motor does much the same - out of the pump cover, through the filter and back into the case. You do have to modify the lower pulley tin a little bit. I'm on a stock doghouse cooler, but it's a higher compression carb'd motor.

Have you considered a Porsche fan conversion? The good ones have all the vanes in there, the alternator is better and there would be room for the a/c compressor too. Forced induction generates heat, so the nice thing about turbos is that you can move them out of the engine bay and into the airflow, maye one under each corner?

On a slightly less related note, one of the people I've known online for many years is Jim Ratto. He's active over on the Cal Look Lounge, but he's got a lot of really good info on facebook. It even tempts me to join up...

m.facebook.com/goodbetterbestautoparts/photos_stream?tab=photos_albums

Been giving this a lot of thought!
Use stock tinwear (plus the type 4 cooler mod I mentioned earlier) and fan, BUT swap the alternator/generator for a solid shaft driven by the standard fanbelt - obviously this will need you to make a new alternator tower - which could even be "liberated" from an old generator to keep the woodruff key slot, threaded ends etc.. On the shaft have a couple of pulley wheels appropriately sized to drive your modern alternator and a/c pump, which you position in the space cleared by losing the dizzy and fuel pump when you swap to EFI. You should still have space to run a full turbo system too.
Big advantage is that you don't need to fabricate loads of tinwear, no need to chop the bus around too much, and it'll use basically standard parts (other than the pulley shaft).