1970 Ginetta G15

.."OEM stuff is most of the time well designed but watch out, the pennycounters are powerful forces.. cheaper options are often used, like plastic instead of aluminium"..

I bought, brand new, a Proton Savvy. A couple of years old and the drivers windup window mech began to jump [little cog worn].
I stripped it all out and replaced the cog with the identical part, from a Kia.
Proton was soft monkeymetal / Kia sintered and hard.

..... Bean counters.... 🤨

OVIMOR

More welding on plastic cars.























About as strong as a bolt in cage for a G15 gets. Hopefully none of it will ever get tested.

Very sad DS, on both counts.

The primer appears to have dried - I say dried as its not tacky as I expected it to be - but its not fully hard yet as you can still leave a mark in it, but that was the same with the stuff mixed correctly in these temps. I also noted that some paint on the outside of the tin from prior use is fully hard - and clearly that has not had any hardener at all. I am going to put it in the low bake oven (cardboard box and a fan heater) for a couple of hours and get it all toasty and then see what its like at the weekend. It not critical stuff just suspension parts so will see what its like when I come to sand it prior to top coats.

Many thanks to kevdonlon for these steel wheels for the demonstrator rebuild. Another part of the jigsaw sorted.









Had a mail through eBay - "Sorry I missed the auction any chance etc. " - I said that if I had the material I would assemble a set and unfortunately for me I have almost all of the parts needed.









Still - if it helps out another G15 owner - I am not doing much else in this weather.

Darkspeed, firstly, I have enjoyed this thread immensely whilst down with Covid, and secondly, as a former development engineer with a heat exchanger manufacturer, I can confirm that this alloy rad is totally unsuited to liquid/air duties. As jonsey commented, it looks like a charge air cooler, albeit, not a particularly good one. Providing that water velocity is reasonably high, rad performance is completely dominated by the airside performance. You need turbulent flow (ie Re above 2100), but keep the max water velocity below about 16 ft/sec to avoid erosion. Hope that this helps with your modifications. A further comment is that the header tank is far too large but is probably controlled by the need to fabricate from flat plate. Cheers

Started a little work on the "Racer" - Just a cleaning up job of the drivers door to begin the refurbishment works - figured if I am going to hand out " one bite at a time comments" that taking a few nibbles at my own projects would be good form.

After sitting in outside unprotected for 30+ years the condition of steel parts was not great.

A few of the small screws holding the inner door panel did actually come out but a few did not - Luckily they very small headed screws and even with levering the panel over what was left of them the damage was negligible.





I had already removed what was left of the window frame at this point and started removal of the inner door handle and lock assembly...





....Which was not going to be reusable





I did manage a little bit more work removing a couple of nuts from the hinge assembly but still a way to go to get all parts removed.

They are early Lotus Esprit












Marina