Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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How come one is cut and offset? Is that how it ends up lumpy? The odd one out is a standard Imp Conrod - unless you have built small capacity motors you may well have not come across a diagonal split rod before - required to get the rod narrow enough to get down the bore. That particular Imp rod has also had just about every modification possible on it so it looks a little different from stock. The other three are one (four) offs just for his engine.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Jan 23, 2020 12:21:02 GMT
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I guess thats not an engine set, 2 long 2 short 1 with a diagonal split How come one is cut and offset? Is that how it ends up lumpy? The odd one out is a standard Imp Conrod - unless you have built small capacity motors you may well have not come across a diagonal split rod before - required to get the rod narrow enough to get down the bore. That particular Imp rod has also had just about every modification possible on it so it looks a little different from stock. The other three are one (four) offs just for his engine.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jan 23, 2020 17:21:24 GMT
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I guess thats not an engine set, 2 long 2 short 1 with a diagonal split The odd one out is a standard Imp Conrod - unless you have built small capacity motors you may well have not come across a diagonal split rod before - required to get the rod narrow enough to get down the bore. That particular Imp rod has also had just about every modification possible on it so it looks a little different from stock. The other three are one (four) offs just for his engine. The 3 are 3/4 of a set - all the same - any perceived length difference is just the photo.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jan 25, 2020 16:08:25 GMT
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Drop this in here as this is the diversions thread. And this is a reasonably large diversion from the norm although there is a loose connection in that we are playing with engines and carbs on the 875 of KBW. This is a little different as its a carb rebuild from what I believe to be from a Rolls Royce Phantom III - 7. something litre V12 from around 1938. Arrived in a flimsy box with some new parts - new parts with a price tag of £3K ! - yet to get that confirmed but as I need to speak with the supplier about some other parts I will do a double check. My lad brought it home from work as none of the guys in his main dealership workshop want to go near it - It's only a carb for goodness sake....... Things were a bit ominous when I gave it the once over as the only bolt that had been removed was the one sheared off and in a separate bag - hmmmmmm. So what if it's the carb from a £200K Roller - Strato's are £500K and have the same carbs from one of those sitting in my shed. And a GTO uses similar Webers. What can go wrong. Oh its not a Weber - let's get that straight its a Zenith - I think. As you need to be in a particular frame of mind to tackle these tasks it has sat in its box for the past week until a time where the stress levels had subsided from the day job and I was in a generally calm and mildly happy place.Comfy chair at the table in place - let's begin. Some shots to assist in putting it back together. As its from 1938 its not particularly complicated - Made for Rolls Royce there is a decent feel of quality about it - Its a simple twin choke downdraft and although I have not seen the manifold in detail I expect that it's one choke for each bank of 6 cylinders. Its a simple venturi principle with a single main jet and an adjustable idle jet. An enrichment pump for acceleration and really that's about it. The reason for the rebuild is that the centre body of the carb and the float bowl are damaged - Something when looking into these thing that appears to happen. Break out the Whitworths and get stuck in - slowly and gently. Taking ones time and taking a good number of pictures along the way does help and within a couple of hours I had the first part of the body removed and identified problem #1 the enrichment plunger seal is goosed. - It will not be going back together this week. Carried on with the tear down gently easing each of the fasteners out. Splitting the lower butterfly assembly from the float bowl section was a test as two are held together by bolts on three ears. Ears on casting have a nasty habit of fracturing unless great care is taken and There was plenty of evidence that someone had been here before. Who knows how many time in the past but the last time was when some sort of epoxy had been invented. Prior to that in the last 80 odd years who knows if it was ever apart. Anyway, it split down without any ears being separated! Remove the float assembly and ... That's a bit nasty - but looking at the enrichment plunger not altogether unexpected. That £3K part is a newly manufactured centre casting and thankfully it comes mostly assembled because there would be very little chance in removing many of the blanks and screws from the existing one. There are 4 that need to be removed and its a bit of a twitchy time when you get down to the last 4. Still, as they are available and the casting you are removing them from is scrap anyway its not that much of a worry. One bank may have had the odd running issue - PTFE tape and crud in the jet seat. Probably also see if the needle assembly fro the float is available as this one has a bit of wear - Its odd that the new assembly did not come with one as it did come with a new seat. Back in the box - owner needs to get some new parts on order.
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A lovely diversion.
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'80 s1 924 turbo..hibernating '80 golf gli cabriolet...doing impression of a skip '97 pug 106 commuter...continuing cheapness making me smile!
firm believer in the k.i.s.s and f.i.s.h principles.
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Jan 27, 2020 21:36:58 GMT
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I still can't believe that people still make parts like this. What's going to happen when they all die off? Not cheap though, but it's a stunning piece of workmanship.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jan 27, 2020 21:57:39 GMT
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I still can't believe that people still make parts like this. What's going to happen when they all die off? Not cheap though, but it's a stunning piece of workmanship. I did wonder that myself when looking at that casting but it probably lends itself to being 3D printed quite easily.
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Jan 27, 2020 22:15:12 GMT
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Except for the petrol in your case... But, point taken. You are quite right.
Then I came to thinking... The big time and skill for this sort of thing is making the plug. So could you 3D print the plug and use it in a 'lost wax' sort of process?
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Jan 27, 2020 22:41:48 GMT
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3d printing can now print the sand moulds directly starting from a scan of the original part.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:37:02 GMT
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3d printing can now print the sand moulds directly starting from a scan of the original part. I hate it when I have a good idea and the rest of the world got there first!
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Sweetpea I was assuming folks would be aware that metal 3D printing is possible now.
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2020 8:31:23 GMT by Darkspeed
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,399
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1970 Ginetta G15 mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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So could you 3D print the plug and use it in a 'lost wax' sort of process? As mentioned, yes! And this is the most DIY friendly approach, as plastic 3D printers are getting cheap and a standard that is useful I was assuming you were aware that metal 3D printing possible now. I wonder how cost effective it would be for a carb body... I suppose in terms of keeping 3D data for one-off obsolete parts it must be a good option 3d printing can now print the sand moulds directly starting from a scan of the original part. I didn't know about this, awesome!
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,399
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1970 Ginetta G15 mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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p.s. Darkspeed - I seem to have a few of your threads in my bookmarks. My NEED for a 2 seat kit car is strong...
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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p.s. Darkspeed - I seem to have a few of your threads in my bookmarks. My NEED for a 2 seat kit car is strong... They can be a lot of fun.
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Jan 28, 2020 12:09:07 GMT
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p.s. Darkspeed - I seem to have a few of your threads in my bookmarks. My NEED for a 2 seat kit car is strong... They can be a lot of fun. Ask sweetpea
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jan 28, 2020 12:56:19 GMT
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Never been a fan of those ferrous kits. I would love to be one of those environmentally friendly sorts but I just cannot get on with biodegradable body/chassis units.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Jan 28, 2020 19:27:13 GMT
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Had to ring around and find one of these today. I must admit to loving the way these parts are priced on cars like this - £350 for that assembly. The seal itself is leather! Had a nice chat with one of the specialists and he also gave me a few things to check when its running as well. When chatting about the aluminium seals for all the unions and capping bolts - Measuring and cutting them from annealed aluminium sheet seems to be the way
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Is leather that uncommon as a plunger seal? From memory the seal on my aisin carb is leather as well..
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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The Wednesday meet was back at the molebert mancave to get the old KBW 875 running and also run a couple of tests on the Tacho out of PHX which had decided to go into retirement. I would have said early retirement but since it had started work in 1973 I think it was probably due to start thinking about putting its feet up I started working for living in the early 80's and as I an sick to death of it (have been since the early 80's!) I have a great deal of sympathy. A few jobs had been done to the engine in the preceding couple of weeks to sort a couple of elements and a rudimentary cooling system had also been installed. Upon turning the key not much happened so the second turn was assisted by and a couple of squirts of Easy Death Knock Spray which provide the necessary proof that there was a lack of go juice joining the compressed air in the combustion chamber. Nothing for it but to take the rebuilt carbs off and investigate. On opening up the float bowls it was found that the float heights were less than ideal in the front carb and in the back carb the floats were in upside down! A few minutes of careful replacement and adjustment had the floats all in correctly and the base of the floats level when at the correct set height. Tea drunk - Molebert can buy the correct tea but he needs so much more practice with brewing it - made note to self only to order coffee in future - or bring own flask. With the floats set and carbs slung back on the turning of the key resulted in a spluttery, shaky, misfiring, smokey, version of a running engine. With not being run since 1986 and having plenty of oil etc. slung down the bores to make sure things were free and easy that element was of no real surprise. Also with plugs, points leads etc. all from the same point of time when last on the road the fact it ran all was a bonus. Some further fettling of timing and a few minor adjustments to the carbs with some rudimentary balancing and filling the cooling set up with some water soon had the lawnmover petrol tank, which had been set up for a fuel supply, empty of its rather aged looking petrol contents. Another refill and some other tweeks here and there and the engine was steadily idling away at about 1000 RPM - we were also doing Tacho testing. That little 875 runs smoothly and quietly even with a performance exhaust and open much Strommies, no untoward knocks, rumbles or rattles. Plenty of leaking fluids and oil burning off manifolds etc. smoke, but on the whole it seems to be quite a sweet running motor. Hard to believe with what you hear about Strommies - but the only thing on the engine not leaking were those carbs! Then again if you know what you are doing they are a decent enough carb. Left camera at home. So what's the mileage Although as G15 speedo cables do not have the longest of life spans it could actually be a little higher than that. Just looking at the tacho it appears that the original owner used to be distracted by the high beam light.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,867
Club RR Member Number: 39
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1970 Ginetta G15 Darkspeed
@darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member 39
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Ginetta G32 work today. It has been a while since any work was carried out on "Gee" - The last work done on the car was probably the exhaust flexible and since then the car has seen very little attention due to all the works going on with the various G15's. Today's work was replacing the gearbox mounts as ever since the car was put back on the road the engine has had a tendency to shift around a little too much. The mileage on the car was only 14-16K when it was taken off the road and when recommissioned after the restoration works the original mounts appeared in good order so the moving about was put down to them having gone a bit soft over time but the movement appeared to be getting worse. With the crossmember - standard Ford XR3i item we suspect - removed the problem with the mounts quickly became apparent Nadabond Gravitec Mounts - Not how they should be and really very effective in preventing the engine leaping around. Surprised that they had totally given up but also glad as it more than explained the issues being experienced. Burton Power supplied a new pair of Vibratechnic heavy duty mounts and these where bolted in place but not before having a few issues with getting the crossmember back into the space where it came out of. We eventually had to resort to trimming a bit of length off the crossmember that was surplus to requirements and just too close to a chassis section before it would easily fit back into place. Not only are the new mounts of a higher performance than the old ones, the installation is now slightly lighter - win win. Just need to complete the revisions to the seat mountings and it can be taken for a test drive to see what sort of improvement there is.
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