FOR SALE: 1993 K-Reg Ford Granada Scorpio 2.0 Automatic (40k miles from new) MOT July 2018
Reason for sale: The Citroen Xantia Activa has now arrived
Mileage: 40,070 miles (will go up as I alter between the Ford and my other car for daily commute)
Date of first registration: 15 January 1993
Number of owners: 3 including me, so "2" previous owners on V5C (owner before me had it since November 1993, I think it was a demonstrator before his ownership)
Owned since: August 2017
MOT Expiry: 26 July 2018 (no advisory - reg: K874RLA)
Service history: No service book, but lots of MOTs since 1996 - backing up the mileage.
The following work has been completed - I did it myself:
Over Easter:
1) Change thermostat (Gates)
2) Change coolant temperature sensor
3) Coolant flush
4) One new - genuine old stock - front headlight indicator
History:
I bought this Granada from a dealer in NW London back in August as I was missing my first car (Mondeo Verona - stardust silver - still remember the colour) and thought I am overdue for a rear-wheel drive Ford, some luxury and an automatic (commute is not fun with the heavy clutch on the CX).
Mechanical:
Engine starts first time. Crank up easily and revs freely. It is now louder because the backbox has a hole (see list of issues needed below). It has the chain cam Ford DOHC engine (RS2000 stable mate(?), but 8 valve).
At town speed, everything is fine, but above 40 it shakes a bit and then above 70 (?) it shakes again - at those speed it is not changing gear, I suspect tyre flat spots. Pumped up the tires and drove at higher speed just now and less shakes, so back up my suspicion re. tires.
The steering is off centre (needs tracking) - but it brakes true and straight - no squeaks.
The coolant run in the "O" rather than between the "O" and "R" after I changed the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor - but does not go above this even in the recent "heatwave" (28 degrees where I am!) and going up hill in Farthing Down (in fact the temp drops...I think it could be an airlock)
Wheels and tires:
Tires need changing - although plenty of thread, they are cracking. I was looking to get 4 x Falken (my go to brand due to the value and ratings), but I can't seem to find the locking wheel nut - see my posts re photos of the nuts. Not even the "lockingwheelnut" website could match it because they wanted a code…
No visible scruffs on the alloys but the centre caps have some fades.
Bodywork:
It's a 5-yard car (looks good from 5 yards away), but I do get annoyed if my car looks scruffy. There are 3 main things: 1) no scruffs but some lacquer level scratches 2) some lacquer peel from A pillar and 3) rust on driver side wheel arch (common, none of the other side).
Some rust on top of frame where it joins the door.
There seems to be a small patch (unpainted) of repair in one of the sill. Both sills look clean.
Interior:
Unmarked - as you would expect from a 40,000 mile (last owner had it since 1993,and I had it since 2017, driven only less than 2,000 miles).
Electric front seats with electric lumbar support (the luxury!), heated seats (working), MPG + distance to empty etc computer (external temperature not working).
Lots of rear leg room, working rear electric seats.
Non-working moon-roof (glass sunroof), no leaks.
In-car entertainment:
None…
I have removed the radio and CD controller as I wanted to fit a new system, but the wires confused me so much that I gave up and now cannot find the original radio…
I have not cut out any wires (don't like doing that as I don't know what I'm doing), but the speakers were fine (slightly muffled) when the old system was installed.
Security:
Keys - no remote fob.
Issues:
1) The coolant level light is sometimes on - but this is linked to the faulty coolant level sensor in the coolant tank - when I flick it up, the light goes away sometimes. It does not lose water.
2) The coolant temperature now sits on the "O" on "NORM" rather than in between the "O" and "R" since I changed the thermostat and temp sensor (was reading too cold before and sometimes too hot - see my other posts) - there is no sign of HG failure (no mayo or oil in coolant).
3) There is a leak underneath - seal in the gearbox - but it changes up and down fine. After a long drive (motorway) it leaks to the exhaust and fumes would appear. Only happens when hot.
Gearbox changes normally, so 4th gear changes at 40 mph, torque converter lock-up at 47 mph (same as the Tribute - which has a newer version of the gearbox). It has always done that correctly.
4) Rear exhaust box has a hole (fibre coming out).
5) Steering is a bit heavy but turns smoothly, no screeches or anything.
In conclusion:
With some work, this car can be brilliant - when I had the leak checked out (was told it is gearbox seal), I told the mechanic I am planning to get some AMG alloys for it and he said the condition of the car is great and keep it original (underneath looks good when I had a peek).
I am not asking a lot for it and have listed all the faults I can find and fixes it need - I see no point in hiding anything since it is not so different to the scrap value. I just hope someone will NOT break it for parts or enter it into a demolition derby … I actually wanted to keep it to match my Volvo 240 (registered 2 days apart and also practically 1 previous owner car) and shows how cars can be so different, but at the end of the day, I just need a Citroen Xantia Activa because of the weirdness of it and unfortunately the Ford has to go.
Priced accordingly and please no canvassers.
Reason for sale: The Citroen Xantia Activa has now arrived
Mileage: 40,070 miles (will go up as I alter between the Ford and my other car for daily commute)
Date of first registration: 15 January 1993
Number of owners: 3 including me, so "2" previous owners on V5C (owner before me had it since November 1993, I think it was a demonstrator before his ownership)
Owned since: August 2017
MOT Expiry: 26 July 2018 (no advisory - reg: K874RLA)
Service history: No service book, but lots of MOTs since 1996 - backing up the mileage.
The following work has been completed - I did it myself:
Over Easter:
1) Change thermostat (Gates)
2) Change coolant temperature sensor
3) Coolant flush
4) One new - genuine old stock - front headlight indicator
History:
I bought this Granada from a dealer in NW London back in August as I was missing my first car (Mondeo Verona - stardust silver - still remember the colour) and thought I am overdue for a rear-wheel drive Ford, some luxury and an automatic (commute is not fun with the heavy clutch on the CX).
Mechanical:
Engine starts first time. Crank up easily and revs freely. It is now louder because the backbox has a hole (see list of issues needed below). It has the chain cam Ford DOHC engine (RS2000 stable mate(?), but 8 valve).
At town speed, everything is fine, but above 40 it shakes a bit and then above 70 (?) it shakes again - at those speed it is not changing gear, I suspect tyre flat spots. Pumped up the tires and drove at higher speed just now and less shakes, so back up my suspicion re. tires.
The steering is off centre (needs tracking) - but it brakes true and straight - no squeaks.
The coolant run in the "O" rather than between the "O" and "R" after I changed the thermostat and coolant temperature sensor - but does not go above this even in the recent "heatwave" (28 degrees where I am!) and going up hill in Farthing Down (in fact the temp drops...I think it could be an airlock)
Wheels and tires:
Tires need changing - although plenty of thread, they are cracking. I was looking to get 4 x Falken (my go to brand due to the value and ratings), but I can't seem to find the locking wheel nut - see my posts re photos of the nuts. Not even the "lockingwheelnut" website could match it because they wanted a code…
No visible scruffs on the alloys but the centre caps have some fades.
Bodywork:
It's a 5-yard car (looks good from 5 yards away), but I do get annoyed if my car looks scruffy. There are 3 main things: 1) no scruffs but some lacquer level scratches 2) some lacquer peel from A pillar and 3) rust on driver side wheel arch (common, none of the other side).
Some rust on top of frame where it joins the door.
There seems to be a small patch (unpainted) of repair in one of the sill. Both sills look clean.
Interior:
Unmarked - as you would expect from a 40,000 mile (last owner had it since 1993,and I had it since 2017, driven only less than 2,000 miles).
Electric front seats with electric lumbar support (the luxury!), heated seats (working), MPG + distance to empty etc computer (external temperature not working).
Lots of rear leg room, working rear electric seats.
Non-working moon-roof (glass sunroof), no leaks.
In-car entertainment:
None…
I have removed the radio and CD controller as I wanted to fit a new system, but the wires confused me so much that I gave up and now cannot find the original radio…
I have not cut out any wires (don't like doing that as I don't know what I'm doing), but the speakers were fine (slightly muffled) when the old system was installed.
Security:
Keys - no remote fob.
Issues:
1) The coolant level light is sometimes on - but this is linked to the faulty coolant level sensor in the coolant tank - when I flick it up, the light goes away sometimes. It does not lose water.
2) The coolant temperature now sits on the "O" on "NORM" rather than in between the "O" and "R" since I changed the thermostat and temp sensor (was reading too cold before and sometimes too hot - see my other posts) - there is no sign of HG failure (no mayo or oil in coolant).
3) There is a leak underneath - seal in the gearbox - but it changes up and down fine. After a long drive (motorway) it leaks to the exhaust and fumes would appear. Only happens when hot.
Gearbox changes normally, so 4th gear changes at 40 mph, torque converter lock-up at 47 mph (same as the Tribute - which has a newer version of the gearbox). It has always done that correctly.
4) Rear exhaust box has a hole (fibre coming out).
5) Steering is a bit heavy but turns smoothly, no screeches or anything.
In conclusion:
With some work, this car can be brilliant - when I had the leak checked out (was told it is gearbox seal), I told the mechanic I am planning to get some AMG alloys for it and he said the condition of the car is great and keep it original (underneath looks good when I had a peek).
I am not asking a lot for it and have listed all the faults I can find and fixes it need - I see no point in hiding anything since it is not so different to the scrap value. I just hope someone will NOT break it for parts or enter it into a demolition derby … I actually wanted to keep it to match my Volvo 240 (registered 2 days apart and also practically 1 previous owner car) and shows how cars can be so different, but at the end of the day, I just need a Citroen Xantia Activa because of the weirdness of it and unfortunately the Ford has to go.
Priced accordingly and please no canvassers.