dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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If its ok with admins, can I do a bit of a how to thread on the VW t4 02g gearbox? Mainly because Ive been searching for info for mnths and there isnt a lot out there. Hopefully it might help some others to understand them a bit. Theres plenty of info out there on the 02b gearbox on youtube but the 02g seems to be overlooked. If anybody wants to add to the content or correct any mistakes please feel free. So, in my quest and from personal knowledge I have established the following. The VW t4 came with one of two gearboxes. The 02b -Used in the 1.9, 2.4 and 88hp 2.5tdi. The 02g - Used in the 102hp and 150hp 2.5tdi. The 02b is rated up to 250nm and the 02g up to 350nm. Both gearboxes are similar 5 speeds. The easiest way to spot the difference is the 02b has a removeable plate/cover on the end of the box which will expose the 5th gear when removed. The 02g does not. Its a solid case. So here is the 02g box I'm going to strip down Its filthy but not oily. It came from a Caravelle with about 160k on it. I cant feel any play in the input shaft but I want to strip it anyway and change the bearings. I'll take loads of pics and detail how I do it. I'm not a gearbox expert by any means and this is the first Ive stripped. I have done so much research that I'm not afraid of it anymore.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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First of all remove drive shafts. The driverside has a small output stub and an intermediate shaft. This was removed with a small plate and slide hammer- Leaving this
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 18, 2018 17:24:28 GMT
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Passenger side driveshaft hub is pretty easy to remove. Its pushed into splines and has a spring clip half near the end. The easiest way to remove this (as I read on the net) is to wind in 2 or 3 m10 bolts into the holes. They will push on the outside of the case and draw the shaft out. Bolts need to be over 80mm long and all thread. I used 3 bolts to even it out a bit. Took a bit of force on the bolts but it worked slowly. It might be possible to do this with a slide hammer but, after the struggle with the bolts, I'm not sure a slide hammer would be easy. It would certainly give the differential bearings a pounding to. Not too much of a problem as they will be changed. Just waiting on a bearing splitter then I'll remove the other stub shaft and get on with spliting the case
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 18, 2018 17:38:44 GMT
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For anybody else thinking of taking their 02g box apart, this link has proved to be invaluable so far - www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/RDW/TR/2001/230/RIts a link to an online version of the VW parts system. I find it easier to understand how things work when I'm looking at exploded parts diagrams. It shows every item in the gearbox and lists part numbers for anything that you need to replace. These links are useful to anybody not sure how a syncromesh gear system works. Until I watched these, I never realised that all the cogs in a box are permanently engaged with another cog, just not locked to the shafts
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 20, 2018 14:56:27 GMT
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More progress while I'm waiting for a bearing splitter. The speedo sender screws into the case just above the driverside stub shaft like so- The switch part can be unscrewed by hand. On top of the earlier 02G boxes is a cable operated lock for reverse gear. It looks like this The casing splits to reveal this Which then just pulls off. Sadly, the guy who removed my gearbox cut through the reverse selector cable rather thsn remove it. They are no longer available from VW so I'll have to get another made up or find a way to delete it. Its just to stop you accidentally going from 5th to reverse. So here is the selector unit 3 bolts, a bit of a tap and a struggle and it came out. The gear selector must be in the neutral position to remove it.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 20, 2018 15:01:09 GMT
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 20, 2018 15:04:07 GMT
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The last pic isnt the best. It should show three wide V shapes stacked on top of each other. These are the selector rods.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 21, 2018 17:18:12 GMT
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The shifter tower/mechanism cleaned up quite nicely so far. Looks like a piece of machined billet. Too nice to refit😂 - In "resting" position, you can the shifter is in neutral with peg (at the bottom) in between 3rd and 4th gear. Pushing the stack down engages 1st and 2nd and its lifted for 5th and reverse. The small protruding peg only has to move about 10mm to engage the next set of gears. Quite simple really
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 21, 2018 17:29:49 GMT
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Needs to be up to scratch to cope with this -
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,063
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Vw t4 02g gearbox rebuildmk2cossie
@mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member 77
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Apr 21, 2018 18:01:45 GMT
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Holy moly! That is one yellow engine Nice write up for the gearbox overhaul though
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 21, 2018 18:34:48 GMT
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Thanks. Not quite the caterpillar yellow I was aiming for but it works. Gearbox will be the same eventually. Once the case has been properly water blasted
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93fxdl
Posted a lot
Enter your message here...
Posts: 2,019
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Apr 22, 2018 11:13:57 GMT
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Since you need a cable for the reverse selector, how about a trigger on the gearstick, similar to the old style brake levers or maybe fit a solenoid and button control. Ps am stealing the parts drawing link Ttfn Glenn
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 22, 2018 13:54:08 GMT
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Ive contacted a firm who make motorbike brake cables and they reckon they can make one. To be honest, I might ditch it altogether. I'm sure its just a pin that goes up and down in the box to prevent you selecting reverse.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 22, 2018 19:15:04 GMT
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No real update today. It sucks when you don't have the right tool for the job. Also sucks waiting for payday to come so you can buy it. I admit, I did try with a pair of mole grips and a hammer but it was going to chew the shaft up. So this is all Ive got today. I removed the rest of the speedo drive (22mm socket).
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 23, 2018 18:46:45 GMT
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This image from the the VW Elsawin shows where the tab from the shifter turret engages - the three V shapes are where the tab sits. In the picture, the rod on the left, selects 5th and reverse gear. The rod in the centre selects 3rd and 4th gear. The other rod is obviously for 1st and 2nd. This image shows that the 02g box has two main shafts. The one on the right is the input shaft. It has 3rd and 4th gears on it midway. The other shaft has 1st and 2nd gear (closest to the bellhousing) and 5th and reverse at the opposite end.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 28, 2018 14:59:46 GMT
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When your in a rush and desperate, I suppose its ok to use whatever tools you have to hand and hope for the best. If theres no rush, there's no substitute for the right tool. Bearing seperator bought today. £20 from scewfix. It took the stub shaft out in less than a minute. The metal ring I used needed to have an 80mm hole through it. As luck would have it I found one on the scrap bin at work. Stub shaft out at last.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 28, 2018 15:08:48 GMT
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So now thats out, I can finally get on and strip the case. The first thing I needed to do was drain it. As mentioned, I hate the smell of transmission fluid. So to hide the smell a bit and mainly to thin in it down a bit, I put 2 litres of white spirits in the case. The drain plug is located here. It requires a 14mm allen socket to undo. - The fluid drained out really easily thanks to the white spirits. Ive been working on cars for nearly 25 years and I never wear gloves. I hate them. They are thin, flimsy and fill with oil when they tear. They also prevent me feeling nuts and bolts. But today I broke from the norm (hate tranny fluid) and used some of wilkos finest. They are the only gloves I can work in
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 28, 2018 15:23:13 GMT
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Next, with gearbox tipped on its side, these two bolts need removing They hold the reverse mechanism to the case. Now look inside the clutch housing. You will see a ring of 8 bolts. These hold the two halves of the case together anf need removing. Theres also four equal sized nuts. don't remove them yet. Flip the box back over carefully, and you will see another ring of 12 bolts around the diff housing. Remove also. All of the 20 bolts you have just removed ate the same size. So no worry about mixing them up. The VW system says these bolts must be torqued to 25nm then a further 90 degrees, so I'm not sure if they are single use only. Anyway, with all the bolts removed, now is the fun/terryfying part....splitting ths case. Mine took a bit of gentle persuasion with a rubber hammer and a pry bar. Be very careful where you are hitting or levering as you don't want to damage the mating surfaces. Et Voila. In the last pic you can see a shiny piece of metal on the end of a rod. That is the reverse gear and the two bolt holes relate to the two bolts you removed
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 28, 2018 15:28:53 GMT
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The reverse wheel mechanism just pulls off the end of that rod . Now you have to carefully turn the box over and remove thr four nuts from before. Now the method of removing the shafts and selector rods is to lift it all out on one go. Warning...It is bloody difficult. It took me a while if struggling but they all came out together.
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dubwarrior2
Part of things
"Open up, its the filth"
Posts: 576
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Apr 28, 2018 15:33:56 GMT
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The shaft that is remaining is forvthe reverse gear. It should just pull out but I cant get it out. I don't want to risk bending it. The diff just lifts out of the case now. It is heavy. The last pic shows a plate with 4 holes innit and two bolts. The selector rods just push into this. I unbolted this plate. It has a tube on it like an oil pick up pipe. I think its so fluid can drain back into the diff. These are the three selector rods just placed back in the case to show wherethey go.
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