Range Rover Classic

I'm looking at options for painting and coating the work I've done so far. I have some 3M shutz to go over the top. I need some seam sealer and I'm toying with either etch primer and red oxide or a buzzweld all in one paint. Not sure wether to stonechip under the arches or wether the Shutz will be up to the job too. Hmmm

Epoxy mastic instead of etch primer? Great stuff, just make sure the metal is roughed up and not 'polished' or else it doesn't like to stick. The farmer down the road from me when I was growing up used to have one of these, apparently it stayed fairly solid purely because there was so much dried on crud stuck to the bottom of it, protecting it from the elements. That might be an option? Haha

Seam sealer - whatever you use it needs to be intended for automotive use - it's pointless using off the shelf stuff that's a one stop everything from the local DIY store, secondly and from many years of experience I would avoid any epoxy mastics - these are primarily manufactured for industrial & marine use with most of them setting to form a very hard compound - sounds good but is useless where a vehicles component parts expand / contract through weather conditions & heat generated by engines / mechanical parts / exhausts / brakes etc where the metal around them is constantly effected by hot / cold conditions - net result is that epoxy cracks with the cracks forming a capillary action which allows water to seep behind it - we are only talking very small amounts but then again you only need small amounts to form / harbour rust.

Personally whilst 3M do some good products - Shultz for corrosion protection is not one of them (nor is Waxoil come to that although not a 3M product) - I can highly recommend the Dinitrol range which I have been using for decades and has been used on all of my restorations without issue. Their 401 Plastkitt seam sealer is brushable and will sort your sealing problems out - I would recommend applying it over the top of a good quality etching primer (aerosol variety is fine) for the arches just clean them up and ensure that they are dry prior to applying Dinitrol's 4941 underbody wax - this is a high quality underseal type product, self healing and has excellent proven anti corrosion properties - it can be applied with a Shultz type gun and gives an excellent OE factory finish (It's used has OE by many vehicle manufactures worldwide) - For any cavities / box sections I would recommend Dinitrol ML cavity wax - again can be applied with a Shultz gun with a lance attached - it can be a messy process but so much worth doing - Dinitrol also do a 'Penetrant' which is a clear cavity way - ideal for door shuts / apertures around hinge boxes & visual areas of the engine bay - I use the aerosol version of this - link to the Dinitrol website:
www.dinitroldirect.com/
They do online ordering etc - £75 - £150 spent at this stage along with a bit of time on rustproofing is very well spent in preserving the life of a vehicle and it adds value too should you ever move it on. If you need any further advice on anti corrosion / paint / body related subjects just post up here or pm me - Chris

Sikkaflex 221. Made in Switzerland. The best. End of story.

The 4941 will be really all you need on the arches providing you have prepared them correctly - no need to put the stone chip on first - generally factory applications equate to etch prime, seams sealed & then 4941 - two coats of that and you will be fine - its kept everything from getting to the steelwork on my Rover for the last 20 years and it still looks good when any road spray or debris is washed off it

More metal cutting and sticking has been happening

Since the last update I have made the front of the RH wing ready to accept a new battery tray and also made the panel to go in after that, tailgate removed, windscreen removed and rot found in the windscreen surround repaired, LH front wing repair done, LH footwell cut out, front of LH sill repairs completed and new LH footwell made. Also lots and lots of stripping to bare metal and rust treatment.
Anyway



Carrying on from last time, repairs to RH wing in preparation for new battery tray




Windscreen out and rot cut out





Windscreen frame repaired and painted



New attachment point for lower half of front wing and all seam sealed and painted ready for underseal



Cavity wax coated under scuttle and scuttle refitted after knocking all its dents out




And moving onto the LH side, a dodgy repair to the front of the LH inner wing cut out and replaced



LH footwell cut out and dodgy repair to bodymount cut out



Bodymount partly replaced and inside sill rust treated



LH footwell cut ready for welding in



Which brings me up to date

Remaining areas of concern are
This little bit in the LH inner wing



LH rear end off sill



And Rh boot floor



I found this on the LH side of the boot in the spare wheel well. It looks like it may be somebody's signature from the production line



A few more late nights and I think I might have the rust beaten

Cheers

From what I remember, the dash isn't THAT bad to take out.

It's a later model with a 2 spoke steering wheel, and they always seem to come off a lot easier than the 4 spoke on earlier ones which almost always need a puller.
Let's you get right in to the bulkhead area anyways.

*MID WEEK UPDATE*

I've managed to spend a couple of evenings in the bat cave this weekend


I got half way through welding in the LH footwell before running out of gas. Will get more on Salturday. still need to make some small repair panels for the LH filch panel to weld to this panel and another small repair to the inner wing. I also need to have a closer look at a bodymount right at the front of the LH footwell as it looks slightly suspicious.


With no gas I thought I'd see what else I could crack on with. The boot floor needed to come out to repair the RH side of the boot floor.

Which leaves a chassis that despite its paint flaking off is very solid. This will need no more than a good going over with a wire brush, some rust treatment and a lick of paint. The fuel lines though I have to admit are looking quite pitted. They run between the RH chassis rail and the body. I need to look more into it but I'm not quite sure how they come off. They look like they're fitted before the body. What I may do is cut them further forward and connect them via some rubber hose to a run of copper line, maybe some microbore stuff. More research needed!

SO RH boot floor

Cut


Copy


Paste

It needs some more fettling and some holes drilling but the bones are there.

Thats a good chunk of the rust dealt with now with the only major bit left being the rear end of the LH sill

Its looking a little sorry for itself at the moment and a far cry from the advertisement photos but were getting there slowly

I think I'll see if I can see the spot welds from the inside. If I can then it should make things a lot easier.