andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Dec 23, 2017 18:13:24 GMT
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Fan is on a relay and normally I'd wire the switch side of the relay with permanent 12V and use the thermo switch to switch the relay to earth. Stick a dash switch into the 12V feed to the thermo switch, that switches to earth and it'll over ride the thermo switch and turn the fan on.
But, now I've got fancy 5 pin led switches, these need 12V, because they light up when pressed, can't wire them as above.
So instead of wiring the relay to earth through the thermo switch, any reason I shouldn't wire 12V through the thermo switch to the relay, the other side of the relay to earth and piggy back the 12V from the switch to the relay, bypassing the thermo switch?
If the thermo switch actives, the relay gets 12V to switch on, the dash switch will be on the switched side of the thermo switch and switch it on and it feeds the relay with 12V.
Or am I going to turn my vehicle into blazing inferno, when stuck in traffic on a hot day?
Thanks
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Dec 23, 2017 20:15:01 GMT
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Why are you buggering about with a manual switch when you have a proper thermo one already?
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Dec 23, 2017 20:29:12 GMT
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It's on a 4x4 and I want to be able to turn the fan when driving in low range, before it get's too hot.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
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Wiring a Rad Fan Over Ride SwitchRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Dec 23, 2017 21:21:05 GMT
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But the thermo-switch will do that for you..?
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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It's a Delica, famed for blown gaskets and cracked cylinder heads. And I've got a flash blue LED switch. And a spare hole in the dash.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
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Wiring a Rad Fan Over Ride SwitchRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Dec 24, 2017 10:03:15 GMT
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It's a Delica, famed for blown gaskets and cracked cylinder heads. And I've got a flash blue LED switch. And a spare hole in the dash. Famed for it through lack of maintenance. If you are concerned, for a new themoswitch. 300TDi Landrovers were meant to be bad for HG and mine did over 2 years of hard abuse with a heavily turned up pump and turbo and a very heavy right foot. Never gave me a minute of trouble. Because it was well maintained. Same with my Cherokee. Keep the cooling system in good condition rather than try to 'fail safe bodge' it better. I was going to do what you want to do on the Cherokee because it used to run hot. But instead I replaced the radiator and fan coupling, flushed the block and heater and now it's as steady as a very steady thing. Use your new switch for some mahaosive LED light bar or something
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Dec 24, 2017 10:16:57 GMT
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yep, famed as mechanics only ever see the shagged ones when they're totally shagged, the cared for vehicles just keep on trucking and you don't remember them as they're just little jobs every now and then.
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andyborris
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Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
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Dec 24, 2017 10:55:28 GMT
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Thanks for the suggestions, the cooling system is in good condition, it's been well maintained, (the interior, however!) and it doesn't overheat.
The electric rad fans are aftermarket and originally had the thermocouple taped to the outside of the bottom hose, I've replaced that with a in hose one.
The Delica originally had a viscous fan, which works at low vehicle speed, ideal for off-roading.
I'm adding braces to my belt because, I found that neither thermostats or temp switches are very accurate and for the few pennies and a little bit of effort I can have an extra level of protection. I expect I'll rarely use it, but better not use it, then regret not fitting it after it's over heated in the Atlas mountains.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
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Wiring a Rad Fan Over Ride SwitchRich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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Dec 24, 2017 11:45:47 GMT
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Any fan will only work stationary or at low speeds. The airflow while moving will be way in excess of the fan whilst moving at anything over 30mph anway. If I were you I would look to refit the viscous fan with a new coupling. My landrover had a factory viscous, never any issue driving (offroad) at low speed with trucks (Bedford RL, 4/5 tonnes) excessively laden trailers (torpedo, 4 tonnes) or guns (3.7 HAA, 9 tonnes). The Jeep has a viscous, I fitted a HD unit, it's a bit noisier but it will see similar abuse as the LR did so I figure it's worth it. It has a backup electric fan (actually the fan for the A/C but the PCM can turn it on for excess engine temperature scenarios) and it doesn't come on ever since I fitted the new coupling. If you can keep both a VFC and a thermostatic electric, even better. But the OE fan should be up for the job.
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2017 11:47:00 GMT by Rich
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
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Dec 24, 2017 12:47:19 GMT
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As said I'd ensure the cooling system is fine instead of the fan switch.
Like the Delicia the Mondeo 3.0 V6 I owned was renowned for blowing HGs, shitting out water pumps and even on occasions having a shot bottom end. So how did my example fare from 110k ex-SOCA car to when it got written off at 262k?
Absolutely fine. I'll not lie, there were times it got hot (not red hot). But that was down to a hose going on occasions, a rad tank going as well as an expansion tank, in addition to the fan controller dying. The latter was down to an iffy mechanic who botched a clutch change at 210k. In that time I took it to Spain, France a few times as well as it knocking up around 200 miles a day for quite some time.
I didn't also drive the car once I knew it had a problem ; how many people still ignore the issue rather than find out what it is?
All I did was ensure I had decent coolant in it (Ford's 10 year coolant) and used decent hoses/rads. That was Ford mostly but the rad was a Nissens. Oh, and changed the oil without fail every 10k.
Generally, if I saw a perished or splitting/leaking hose I'd change it. I learned my lesson from the previous botched V6 I bought. In my defence the first one was very cheap, but ultimately very costly once 4 months of ownership had passed.
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Badger
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Dec 24, 2017 13:22:06 GMT
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Fan is on a relay and normally I'd wire the switch side of the relay with permanent 12V and use the thermo switch to switch the relay to earth. Stick a dash switch into the 12V feed to the thermo switch, that switches to earth and it'll over ride the thermo switch and turn the fan on. But, now I've got fancy 5 pin led switches, these need 12V, because they light up when pressed, can't wire them as above. So instead of wiring the relay to earth through the thermo switch, any reason I shouldn't wire 12V through the thermo switch to the relay, the other side of the relay to earth and piggy back the 12V from the switch to the relay, bypassing the thermo switch? If the thermo switch actives, the relay gets 12V to switch on, the dash switch will be on the switched side of the thermo switch and switch it on and it feeds the relay with 12V. Or am I going to turn my vehicle into blazing inferno, when stuck in traffic on a hot day? Thanks I know nothing of Delica's but may be able to help with the original question. I'd have thought wiring it up to the high voltage side of the circuit, whilst not ideal, should be OK as relays don't draw a huge amount (unless it's a huge relay!). I would test it if possible though and monitor the switch. Alternatively, and I'm not sure this would work for you without seeing how the switch works, when I wired in warning LED's I had them effectively run off a separate 12v feed which bypasses the issue completely.
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