moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Nov 26, 2017 22:25:39 GMT
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The underneath of my Morris is quite shocking in places. For those that haven't see the build threadI don't have - A rotisserie or a fondness for lying on my back
- A need for a show-winning finish, just tidy and long lasting
- An air-fed mask, so no 2K products
I was thinking I would get the panels/repairs as good as I could then do the following
- Aerosol zinc rich primer, applied as I do the repairs
- Seam sealer, both in a tube and brushed where necessary
- Upol Gravitex stonechip
- Cellulose top-coat
But now I wondering if I need to introduce an etch-primer at some point, as some say the adhesion of zinc-rich primer isn't great.
Do I need the hassle and expense of an epoxy ?
I've got a big compressor and an assortment of spray guns, but I'll need to do this over the winter in my garage to keep my project on track.
What does the wisdom of the forum say to save it all going horribly wrong ?
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Nov 26, 2017 23:28:39 GMT
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Firstly you can save yourself some time & money and still come out with a better job with a professional anti rust protection product - one that takes the appearance of OEM factory finish - I restore classics for a living and unless a client wants to pay for a mirror paint finish that just about no one is ever going to see - the following is what I recommend: Remove any loose unsound areas of sealer / underseal & ensure that all underbody panels are clean of oil & grease - remove all loose debris by wire brush - a clean round by spraying a panel wipe (through a hand held pressure sprayer - garden type) will help enormously - apply seam sealer as required to new / reworked panel areas along with anywhere else that looks like it has the ability to retain trapped water between panel seams - apply a good quality etch primer (aerosol is fine) - apply Dinitrol ML to cavity / box sections - liberally and let it seap into all seams - then apply Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax - sprayed on with a sultz type gun - (obviously you need to mask any mechanical bits / exhaust etc) In all the years I have been using this I have never had a problem - it's both practical & cost effective - 6 - 8 tins will do a vehicle the size of yours + 2 x cans ML - Dinitrol website link - www.dinitroldirect.com/ They do online orders and will also sell you the application gun & lance - let me know if you require any further info but there is no better product for the job that you have planned. |
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Last Edit: Nov 26, 2017 23:31:19 GMT by Deleted
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Thanks for the comprehensive reply - appreciated :-) The cavity sections, I'd already got Dinitrol ML on my wishlist - so that is good. I hadn't considered the Dinitrol underbody wax. The underseal I have there at the moment, is horrid, touch it, and you end up with black tarry hands which is very frustrating. I'm hoping the Dinitrol is better, maybe I'll buy an aerosol and do a test. So lets take an repaired patch in the floorpan as an example - Wirebrush etc
- Panel wipe
- Zinc primer over the seams only
- Seam sealer over the seams
- Etch over the whole lot
- Dinitrol wax to finish
Is that the way to do it ?
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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for the small cost of a tin of jotun jotamastic its totaly worth it , all the time you spend making the repairs this stuff will make it last , stick like poo to a blanket and dries hard as nails
you would be a fool to not use it - its the best you can do
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Nov 27, 2017 13:43:50 GMT
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for the small cost of a tin of jotun jotamastic its totaly worth it , all the time you spend making the repairs this stuff will make it last , stick like poo to a blanket and dries hard as nails you would be a fool to not use it - its the best you can do I am going disagree and if you did use this product then more fool you - I keep seeing where vehicle owners think that they are doing a wonderful job by applying a 2 pack industrial product to the undersides of their vehicle - said 2 pack industrial product dries to very hard finish - said product is manufactured for the industrial market and large scale commercial applications. Vehicles flex / expand / contract and therefore the products & finishes applied to them need to do likewise at roughly the same rate, more to the point by applying a very hard finish to a vehicles underbody where it is impacted by stones / gravel / grit along with other road debris will result in the hard finish fracturing / cracking which is then expanded by the vehicle flexing / expanding / contracting which in turn is enough for water to find it's way through - don't worry though has your hard as nails product will retain the said water there to the full detriment of the steelwork - you may has well be applying concrete to the underside of your vehicle. You will not find any OEM vehicle manufactures using anything like this - they use sealers & underbody waxes that are made exactly for job in question - that allow for vehicle flex & movement - in some cases with a catalyst / 2 pack to help curing times but 2 pack automotive products should not be confused with 2 pack industrial / commercial products. |
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2017 13:45:15 GMT by Deleted
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Nov 27, 2017 13:48:52 GMT
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Thanks for the comprehensive reply - appreciated :-) The cavity sections, I'd already got Dinitrol ML on my wishlist - so that is good. I hadn't considered the Dinitrol underbody wax. The underseal I have there at the moment, is horrid, touch it, and you end up with black tarry hands which is very frustrating. I'm hoping the Dinitrol is better, maybe I'll buy an aerosol and do a test. So lets take an repaired patch in the floorpan as an example - Wirebrush etc
- Panel wipe
- Zinc primer over the seams only
- Seam sealer over the seams
- Etch over the whole lot
- Dinitrol wax to finish
Is that the way to do it ?
You can delete the 'etch the whole lot' if you have a sound base to apply the Dinitrol to - just do the bare steel / new panels / reworked areas with the etch primer |
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Nov 27, 2017 14:27:55 GMT
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its just like what car makers use , suits me perfect and i reccomend it to anyone , when i say hard as nails its not brittle like glass , still flexes as ive tried it on test pieces
if its good enough to go under salt water its good enough for me , and plenty of others rate it
nice know all attitude btw
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Nov 27, 2017 17:13:17 GMT
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its just like what car makers use , suits me perfect and i reccomend it to anyone , when i say hard as nails its not brittle like glass , still flexes as ive tried it on test pieces if its good enough to go under salt water its good enough for me , and plenty of others rate it nice know all attitude btw Not getting into disagreements with you over your comment has it just spoils what is a fantastic forum for everyone - so you do it your way and will do it mine - however I really ought to advise you that 'I am no know it all' - I simply don't know everything but what I do know about classic / retro / vehicle restoration is pretty extensive having being learnt, retained and built upon 40 years apprenticed & time served restoration experience - and I run a very successful vehicle restoration business - multiple award winning at that too. |
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Last Edit: Nov 27, 2017 20:32:00 GMT by Deleted
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Nov 27, 2017 18:03:08 GMT
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I did my chassis in upol raptor. Will report back in 10 years and report how it did.
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Nov 27, 2017 20:31:10 GMT
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I did my chassis in upol raptor. Will report back in 10 years and report how it did. You won't have a problem with it - It's made for the job that you used it for |
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Nov 27, 2017 21:13:04 GMT
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This is what my floorpan looks like with some of the underseal scrapped off. It is pretty manky, even though my chassis repairs are getting better.  I can't help but think that it needs the anti-rust properties of zinc ? |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Nov 27, 2017 21:46:53 GMT
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I did my chassis in upol raptor. Will report back in 10 years and report how it did. You won't have a problem with it - It's made for the job that you used it for What was funny was when we painted over the chassis number with a shutz gun and it vanished. Had to get the grinder and wire brush to get it back... |
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Nov 27, 2017 22:07:07 GMT
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This is what my floorpan looks like with some of the underseal scrapped off. It is pretty manky, even though my chassis repairs are getting better. I can't help but think that it needs the anti-rust properties of zinc ? If you have bare metal showing through then yes (cant tell in the image) but if not the Dinitrol can go straight over that providing that it's sound and not flaking or loose and is free of oil / grease |
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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It's all in the prep in the first place. If your painting over rusty bits then it wil always come back through.. Obviously if you can't blast then wire brush as best you can. Clean with panel wipe etc to remove residue of old underseal. I usually treat anything that was rusted with some sort of phosphoric based treatment. They are all pretty much the same thing. Then clean up again and prime, again i'm not sure it matters too much what you prime with so long as it isn't a Halfords rattle can, its more important what's under the primer.. Seam seal then stone chip and paint or wax. Ive used the 4941 before but wasn't a big fan. It was expensive for what it is. Good ol Waxyol is far cheaper and is pretty much the same effect. The Dinitrol cavity wax is a must tho well worth the outlay.
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2017 8:23:32 GMT by slater
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 311
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Nov 28, 2017 19:56:29 GMT
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Epoxy mastic 121 from Rust Busters is really good stuff, can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on.
I sprayed mine with a 2K filter mask, it does stink a lot until it goes off.
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Last Edit: Nov 28, 2017 19:56:44 GMT by v8
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at200
Part of things
Posts: 88
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If you are looking for a bare metal primer, Lechler epoxy 29107 is very well liked over on the mig welding forum and used by some of the professional restorers/car builders on there. It is a two pack product - you need to buy the activator - but it is non isocyanates so you do not need an air fed mask to spray it. www.express-paints.co.uk/epoxy-primer-29107/ |
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