1967 Ford Corsair V4 - Restoration: Delivered

People the length and breadth of the country dying with anticipation .....

Hi Chris
Great job as ever and like more people curious to the end result.
I see you are using a scale. Last week, i got an friendly instruction from the guy at the paint supplier (as i am unexperienced in that area) and he said that i should not use a scale but do volume mixing of the 2 K paint as there is a big difference in the density mass per color. For instance 1 liter of white paint is much heavier then 1 liter of black paint so he advised me do volume mixing instead of weight mixing. I am pretty sure you are aware of this but i was surprised

Keep up the good work and thanks again for showing it as there is a fair bit of work involved in that

Peter

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SPELLBOUND






Still just saying rude words of amazement inside my mouth, smiling and shaking my head at all of this Chris.

So - on with the primer - this is a 2 pack polyester - very high in solids - You need a large fluid tip & needle in the spray gun to apply this product - min 1.8mm - I have a dedicated polyester gun that is a 2.5mm set up



Its the first time that I have used the lift with a car on it for painting - and it makes the task so much easier



Engine bay & boot load areas first



Then the rest of the bodyshell



Along with some of the smaller painted parts & the underside of the boot lid



So far so good



Once the polyester started to cure it could be guide coated



For ease I just use matt black aerosols for guide coating



Then the shell / lift could be relocated and parked to allow more workshop space



Some of the smaller parts completed



With the workshop space freed up I could then do the next set of panels for the car



Bonnet, boot & the two offside doors



just the right weather for this process too not too hot but essentially not too cold either



All went according to plan



And the offside doors



That just leaves the 2 nearside doors and a handful of minor / small parts to put into polyester - due to the size of my workshop I can only process so much at any one time - it has to be undertaken methodically too with a thought out process - its pointless having loose panels in final paint if you have nowhere safe to store them - from experience the best place is fitted back on the car / bodyshell - so that needs to be painted first

More tomorrow

Do you know how many people with project-cars currently in paint shops would be thrilled to be able to watch the progress!

I notice that the product you use is Direct To Metal. Worth noting for those following along that feature is not a given with all of the polyester high build primers.

bah humbug... stock is out!:-(


well deserved though chris...  looking great in one colour.

Will polyester primer absorb moisture if not quickly over painted?

You're fairly getting out the primer with a 2.5mm tip! Is it "thick" compared to say typical 2k Base coat?

Firstly - The polyester product that I use deletes the requirements for using etching primers - more to the point several polyester primer products physically react with etching primers - this one included - the use of etching primers would have been a given several years ago but has paint / coating product & material advances area made some previously utilised stages of primer application are no longer required - Secondly - providing that you are both thorough & diligent in your preparation - ensuring that a good well keyed substrate base is achieved and that the panels are free from all contaminates then you have eliminated the requirement for etching primers anyway on steel panels - alloy panels are a little more difficult but not much - providing that your preparation is correct from the outset