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Oct 30, 2017 14:36:31 GMT
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My heart is full of joy after removing the strut brace on my '99 S-Type Jaguar, cheerfully snapping 5 of the 7 bolts that hold it on...and they say Italian cars are made of chocolate!!
Anyway, all 5 snapped just where the thread starts, so there's nothing to get hold of.
Does anyone know of a foolproof/quick way of getting the remaining bits them out?
I've drilled out a few bolts before and it tends to be a bit hit and miss, and takes ages.
Are those "easy out" type things any good?
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Oct 30, 2017 14:45:52 GMT
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If you snapped the bolt, you will snap the easy out, unless you use a LOT of care, heat, penetrating oil, unicorn farts and say a special incantation to the Machine Gods. Getting away with an easy out five times in a row? if you manage that, go put the lotto on before your luck evaporates! How come you kept going to snap all five? Snapping one would've been the "best go get some penetrating oil and a blow torch" signal for most lol! I tip my hat to your determination, Sir!  On a more serious note... Got a pic of the area? It sounds as though drills is your way out, though can you get a nut over teh bolt and pool some weld into the hole to "make" a new bolt? |
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Last Edit: Oct 30, 2017 14:51:56 GMT by fad
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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Oct 30, 2017 14:50:08 GMT
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No is the short answer to that.
If the bolt has sheared from being seized there's no way an easy out will do anything. Heat is always the key to seized fasteners (but it's a bit late now.) Drill is probably your best bet unless you could weld a nut to the reamaining thread. That way you get a bit of heat and somthing to turn..
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Oct 30, 2017 14:57:25 GMT
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How come you kept going to snap all five? Snapping one would've been the "best go get some penetrating oil and a blow torch" signal for most lol! I tip my hat to your determination, Sir! Well, determination and stupidity are often mistaken for each other! The annoying thing is that they felt like they were turning, I was actually quite careful and turned it a little, then back, then forward a little, then back etc. but each one just snapped the head off. I'll get a pic of the area and post it later on. |
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Oct 30, 2017 15:23:48 GMT
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Impact gun might have had them off without the snapping. Ho hum, you are at a point where it matters not a jot! You are where you are.
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Oct 30, 2017 15:37:19 GMT
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How come you kept going to snap all five? Snapping one would've been the "best go get some penetrating oil and a blow torch" signal for most lol! I tip my hat to your determination, Sir! Well, determination and stupidity are often mistaken for each other! ... and it aint stupidity. It's a lesson learned. It's only stupidity if you go and do it again |
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Oct 30, 2017 16:31:05 GMT
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are the bolts into the strut tops?
if they are then most likely you can get at the other end of the borked bolt and wind them out the other side with somd grips or irwin nutgrips if access allows.
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Oct 30, 2017 20:08:06 GMT
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This may not suit you if you don't want to weld near the strut tops but it has worked for me every time with blocks, heads, manifolds, brake cylinders and anywhere where I've broken a stud, bolt or bleed nipple:
If there's a thread or two, put a clean nut on, wind the MIG up, point it at the broken bit inside the nut and fill it with weld. If there's not enough thread, put a washer over the broken stud/bolt and rosette weld that on. Then put a bigger nut on the washer and weld that inside to the washer.
Then, in both cases, blast the nut with pipe freezing spray until you get frost on it.
If you have an impact wrench, use that to undo the cold nut. Otherwise, hitting the end with a hammer and then winding out can work.
If the nut comes off the broken bit, start again with a better weld.
Good luck
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V8 MGB GT sprint and track
V8 Ford Pilot Woodie project
1971 Early Bay VW camper
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Oct 30, 2017 22:22:44 GMT
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Another vote for welding another bolt on the end. It's the only thing I even try these days. It even works if the bolt broke off flush because you can build up a few blobs of weld on the broken end. It's really the heat of welding that does the job. The only tips I can add is to get the broken bolt nice and hot (to aid penetration and increase the heat shock on the bolt) and to make sure you don't accidentally weld it to the car ('cos that'd be upsetting). Here's some photos of one I broke under my car... retrorides.proboards.com/post/2262041/thread It was about M6 but I've done it on bigger and smaller. I also make a point of using a rattle gun whenever possible. Mines a double hammer job, the cheap ones aren't strong enough. It removes bolts I'd break which saves the bother of trying to remove so many bits. Good luck! James |
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yeah welder works like magic , almost worth owning a used mig just for that
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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joe90
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,027 
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Nov 12, 2017 17:34:22 GMT
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Another vote for the mig welder from me too, saves a lot hard work
Bryan
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