pork
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,666
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Is there not a Nissan piston that you can use with the correct 4V cutouts on the CROWN instead of Vauxhall OHC stuff? Would help with the squish area as well then surely Also another person that can't see the last two posted pics That better? There’s some Peugeot pistons that fit the pins apparently The Vauxhall’s are stronger (apparently) than the Nissan......and easily available 🙂👍
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,872
Club RR Member Number: 39
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...Wondering now if i can just put new pistons on and try again?🤔 Only if you are wanting to achieve the same result.
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pork
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,666
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...Wondering now if i can just put new pistons on and try again?🤔 Only if you are wanting to achieve the same result. ........put new pistons on..........check all C.R. measurements, tweek maps.......and try again? *......and ring gaps 👍
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Here we go dadstaxi...
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2018 23:45:43 GMT by baracus
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Thank you for re-posting these. Looking at the conrods, is there also an issue with the little end bearings causing heat build up in the conrods?
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Jeezlus,okay you have ringland failure from severe knock and a material strength issue as a possible secondary factor. Still gonna need pics of the tops, underneath and other thrust face to get a better picture. Failure is going to be due to any or all of; Excess ignition timing Lean fuelling Insufficient octane petrol Too much CR. I'd go with all 4 I don't see a piston/bore clearance issue. Wondering now if i can just put new pistons on and try again?? ........put new pistons on..........check all C.R. measurements, tweek maps.......and try again? Hold your horses..................... You've got bore damage on at least one bore I can't tell from the pics how deep bad and if it can be honed through. You're going to need to check the bore diameter at the top, middle and bottom of the cylinders in an north south and east west orientation for all four bores with a precision dial bore gauge that reads to at least 0.01mm to establish the level of bore distortion/wear/taper. You're going to need examine every bearing and bearing surface for damage due to a) knock & b) debris of the piston ring lands circulating in the oil system. You need to check the block deck & cylinder head surface for straightness. If that all checks out you can think about new pistons. If you are going to reuse the rods and pins you need to check those as well for pin bore damage/elongation and pin condition.
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Thank you for re-posting these. Looking at the conrods, is there also an issue with the little end bearings causing heat build up in the conrods? Yeah the conrods might be blue from overheating, or they might have been heated up to fit the pins in the assembly stage. Pork needs to answer that one.
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I think what I am trying to say is have the wrong gudgeon pins been fitted so that the little ends are partially seizing through lack of lubrication and so causing the heat build up and sideways drag on the pistons leading to ring failure?
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2018 23:26:06 GMT by dadstaxi
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Yeah that's interesting, would you expect to see galling on the skirt and ringlands adjacent to the pin bore though due to the localised overheating?
I'm assuming, perhaps wrongly, that the pin is a semi floating shrink fit in the little end.
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2018 23:56:49 GMT by baracus
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Interesting point however the skirt is cut away beneath the gudgeon pin holes. It would be useful to see if there are any signs of localised overheating or even wear / deformation around the pin holes though.
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2018 23:55:10 GMT by dadstaxi
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One things for certain, Porks' got lots of work to do Add checking the pin bore to the list!
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Last Edit: Jun 8, 2018 0:01:07 GMT by baracus
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pork
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,666
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Cheers people👍👍
Got some homework to do then 😂
The pistons came out of the cylinders whole/intact , the parts that are broken off are from when I was removing the rings.......hopefully this has kept much debris from floatong about 😬
The pistons I bought last time came with the rings, and pin, so il just get a complete set of those again (£35 for piston/ring/pin)
I picked up another head the other day, so il get my new valves cut in to that one......do away with the decomp plate.
Il get a proper burette this time rather than a syringe to take C.R. measurements
With regards to fuelling, only thing that’s changed with this engine from the last, was that I polished the ports in the head.......could that of thrown the fuelling out that much ?
One thing I haven’t done though is had the injectors tested, so might get those sent off and cleaned/tested
.......main concern is the bores, il try and dismantle it all later and take some pics, I don’t own the correct tools to measure the diameters precisely 😕
Isn’t learning fun.....and curse word expensive 😂👍😎
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CaptainSlog
Part of things
Posts: 510
Club RR Member Number: 180
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Good luck Pork - looks seriously frustrating but, with the help on here, you will get there.
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You'll get there eventually bud, we've all blown a few up in out time!
With regards polishing heads and fuelling requirement, if you actually mean literally JUST polishing, then no, polishing does absolutely nothing for flow or power. (Surface finishes can do trick things with boundary layer conditions but that's WAY beyond the scope here)
If you mean porting then possibly, depending on what you're using to measure load on your EFI system.
Are you datalogging or at least monitoring mixtures? You at least need a wideband AFR gauge plumbed up in the car whilst you're getting it up and running well.
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Last Edit: Jun 8, 2018 7:27:19 GMT by baracus
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I would recommend checking parts compatibility and dimensions before buying new pistons and rebuilding.
Watching with interest. Good luck
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pork
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,666
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I’ve got an afr gauge, but it’s built into the ecu so have to run with the laptop plugged in.
And using a map sensor 👍
Yeah, I only polished the ports last time.
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So was the fuelling fine then? I thought you said the mapping was a bit sh1te earlier but maybe i'm thinking of someone elses thread.
If you've got datalogs or map files post em up. Easier for everyone to help you troubleshoot then.
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Last Edit: Jun 8, 2018 8:10:43 GMT by baracus
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Failure is going to be due to any or all of; Excess ignition timing Lean fuelling Insufficient octane petrol Too much CR. I'd go with all 4 I don't see a piston/bore clearance issue. I agree..... though not necessarily in that order. I've seen 12:1 mentioned. Unless very long duration cams, that's much too much. Have a careful look at your ignition map - just one or two wrong numbers in a bad place can do that...... Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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pork
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,666
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Here’s some pics. All pistons and bore pics look similar Piston, think that’s a scuffing mark? Bores, if you zoom in on pics, you can still see hone marks on the scuffs Maps
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