1967 Morris Oxford Traveller - off to a new home

I haven't completely dissed this chrome paint stuff - I'm quite willing to take notes has you proceed - and even better if it comes good on the pot metal bits - onwards sir and if it works I might end up eating my words and sending you some gin in a decanter

Who do you use?

I used to work there 😉😉😉

Not too much to report - just chipping away.

The fab on the rear bumper is 99% done (just one edge needs a trim)
Here it is all stripped out, with a bar to hold it straight and true



I think I'll leave that to one-side for now.  There is some pitting, so I think I'll get it blasted when I've done the front one.

So it is back to the bodywork, drivers side sill today.
This is a pattern sill, and it needed a pie-cut to get it to get a 1/2 decent fit.
It needed some slop to flatten it out - or profiling if you are a grumpynorthener 



The original sill was a huge bodge, so to get it this good, is a major improvement.
A Traveller is supposed to have two jacking points in the sill. 
But those sills are expensive, and I'd never use the factory jack, and I like the smoother less is more look.

Thanks for looking

So the spare front wing has come back from Envirostrip - thanks again Chris.....

Rear section just needs a small patch let in. So much better than the other side 



Front section is a little frilly, but should repair okay.



But fitting the passenger front wing is a little way in the future.
The rear lower tailgate needs painting this summer.
I knew one corner was a bit below par, a patch on the outside is straightforward, bit the inner frame needs some work too, which will keep me busy for a while.



One of the areas I've been putting off for a while, was the rear passenger door - prepping the inner frame ready for paint.
It was a little bit rough I knew, but this was yet another surprise.



How the hell does a door go rusty there ?

I guess I'll be cutting that out and putting in a bit of steel - just for a change.

Thanks for looking.

jonsey was on the money with a leaking window. Rear quarter light seals are unavailable, so I can only weld so much without needing a new seal.

Cut out the worst, and made a panel



Welded that in and ground back



There are still some holes and weak areas closer to the quarterlight, but those will just get filled, due to the aforementioned lack of seals.
It is an area I can revisit in the future if I stumble across some seals.

Detailing/repairing the inside of the rear door and tailgate is pretty tedious, so it is time for some retail therapy.....

Paint is getting closer each day, and I needed a new top-coat gun.

Went a bit blind reading reviews etc.
Spent  a bit more than I was expecting but went for a A.N.I. F150/F160 with a 1.4 nozzle
The availability of a rebuild kit for less than a tenner swayed my decision.
Already got a primer gun with a 14CFM compressor with a regulator/water trap, and I've got an on-gun regulator too, so I should be all set 

With the passenger door laid flat on the bench for repairs, I went off on a tangent, and started thinking about door panels.
This is what I had on day one, functional, but not original, and not nice. They won't be going back on.

Even the originals - aren't exactly over-designed. With just a  couple of horizontal details.

I'm going aluminium panels for the doors, kickpanels and boot panels.
Spent some time with the measurements, and I can get all the panels from a single sheet.
So assuming I don't make any mistakes (fat chance) this will be quite cheap to do.

The chance of mistakes are going to be taken the n'th degree as I'm going to bead roll some design into them.
Never done any bead rolling, so I'm going to keep it simple, and try and match the design of upholstery.

I'm thinking something along these lines

.

So off to research bead rollers....
Decided on this one, a bit more expensive than the cheapies on eBay



But the stand means I can take everything outside, so I've got some room to work.
Also that one comes with shear wheels, which might be quite nice for cutting the aluminium panels.

The UPS man is going to have a bad day delivering that 

I was born in Dorset - so I've got that covered 

I think the trick is to replace the handle with a wheel, that makes it a bit easier to grab when you are in a strange position.
....wonders if this will fit.....





I plan on some kind of support to hold the panel up.

If all of those aren't enough I'll try and work out a routine with my son, and some neanderthal system of stop/forward/back/bu66er  

Oh yes - I hadn't seen that, but very similar to what I was thinking.
I'll have to have a closer look at that once I'm ready to start.

From experience I would brace the plate up on the bead roller - every make & model that I have come across with exception of the higher end professional range always flex even when beading alloy sheet - a box section or equal angle frame welded to the back face of the plate prevents this and allows for accurate straight line beading * The steering wheel idea is exactly what is on my roller too and gives it a greater flexibility / workability when single handed



* Ask me how I know