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How can I make this tank last forever ? When building custom motorcycles at the shop years ago, I treated the insides of all tanks before they hit the road. With many products on the market, all claiming to be the permanent solution, but not willing to risk failure on clients rides, I visited the airport, found the time proven product and procedure they used, and that was what we used at the shop. Decades later..., I'm still in touch with several client friends who are still riding the same bikes with never an issue of the product seperating from the tank wall, with insides of tanks still looking flawless. The same can't be said for many of the other products of the day, and I've heard of tank sealant failures of some of the current "hot" products.... Just a thought, Lance |
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And it works too - I used this several years ago on a clients car and it's still running about without any issues from the fuel tank |
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Oct 15, 2018 10:25:03 GMT
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if you were repairing a mechanical defect, such as split bulging seam due to rust i would say swerve the "paint" fuel tank sealer.
but as its preventative measure on an excellent tank then deffo
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Oct 15, 2018 19:17:36 GMT
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Thanks for the replies on the fuel tank. Alas there is no local airport garage where I can pick the brains of the people there, so it looks like the Frosts sealer gets the vote - that is a nice easy one. I've done the spray work on the floorpans. There are so many repairs, and therefore seam sealer etc, it is never going to be concourse, but that was never the idea, at least I can work under there without rust in my eye or Waxoyl in my hair.   The underside is now looking way nicer than the topside  Quite looking forward to fitting the axle and air tank back in. Not looking forward to getting the masking tape off of the braided fuel line though - best do that soon. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Oct 18, 2018 22:18:13 GMT
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So I started building up my freshly powder coated link arms with their rose joints....... I asked the powdercoaters to keep the threads clear, as I didn't own a 1/2" UNF tap, and they looked clear..... Screwing in the rose joint into the 2nd arm, it went a little tight, not too tight, just a little. Then it seized completely !! I tried to back it off - nope. Lube/heat/freezer all did nothing - starting to get worried now. Then out came bigger and bigger cheater bars until this happened.  Hmmm - and that was decent quality rose joint from a motorsports place, not a Kit Kat recycling factory. Claimed static radial load 16,238 Pounds, whatever that means, but not a match for a bloke on a mission with a 3' length of scaffold. One of the remaining arms will go the same way too, if I don't clean out the threads at the bottom of the threaded section (top is clean) Wish I knew how cheap 1/2 UNF taps were  I've no idea if that arm is salvageable via drilling on the pillar drill and re-tapping - I have my doubts  |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Oct 18, 2018 22:43:23 GMT
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Oh poo. ☹️
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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If you do not have the right tap, take a bolt with the right thread and make some slots lengthwise with a small grinder and then you can use it as a tap
Peter
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Oct 19, 2018 12:01:38 GMT
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"static radial loads" are a quantity for point loads on bearings, if my maths is right that's about 7 tonnes of pressure (yike). similarly a 10.9 grade M12 fastener (no idea what size yours are) are rated at about 8 tonnes proof load (effectively how much it could lift)
torsional load is a different kettle of fish though (beyond my maths skills to work it out) but its not a force youd expect the joint to be subject to doing its day to day job, you found exposed its weakness, it broke right at the point of stress, i.e the minor diameter right where it seized, which is fairly "normal"
short version, it really sucks, but don't think what you have experienced is a measure of poor quality bearing
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2018 12:10:11 GMT by darrenh
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Oct 19, 2018 12:30:12 GMT
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edited due to being complete bollx...
bolts are usually tightened to 75% of their yield, and there are charts that show the force applied to a bolt to achieve that 75%. so theoretically if you add 30 odd % to the turning force, you will permanently deform it, add more it will sheer. for my example an M12 10.9 bolt thats 120NM, which works out about 160NM to go past its yield strength.
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Last Edit: Oct 19, 2018 19:35:03 GMT by darrenh
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Oct 19, 2018 12:59:12 GMT
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Brilliant maths darrenh :-) The rose-joint (which I'm happy with the quality of BTW) is 1/2" UNF The breaker bar I used was exactly 1m long. Would you still like me if I got angry ;-) |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Oct 19, 2018 13:04:01 GMT
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Ouch, that's bad news, a bit late now but if I weld a boss or nut to anything I always run a tap through it just to be sure nothing has distorted
Might be worth asking if the threads are cut or rolled on the joints, rolled threads are much stronger
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Oct 20, 2018 17:57:04 GMT
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Well I spent some time today setting the pillar drill up, to drill out the remains of the rose-joint.
Something deeply funky has happened with the thread of the rose-joint.
Drill 2/3rds of the way in - all as expected, but the last third is much tougher, almost like the steel has hardened.
Not sure I can explain that, but that arm is now a template. I will ship in some new materials and make another.
It is a set back, but there is no way I can trust the thread in that arm now.
Ho hum.
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Oct 21, 2018 19:49:51 GMT
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just binge re-read this thread, been a fan of the a60 farinas forever. keep up the amazing work! and thank god you got rid of the horse tat and original axle as they cant take much more than a standard a55/a60 engine can produce! cant wait for the next update
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 2006 Audi A3 2003 Fusion 2 looking for a project.... |
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Oct 30, 2018 15:57:20 GMT
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So after the set backs of a dodgy air tank and a broken suspension arm - time to get back on track. Most importantly - ship in the materials to make a new 4-link arm. Quite quick to make - I must be getting the hang of it  Powder-coated, and thread cleaned out - ready to bolt on.  To make a trip to the powder-coaters worthwhile - I've had the petrol tank blasted, zinc-primed and powdercoated too. Dodgy piccie, as it was dusk, but you get the idea. I've got the POR-15 kit on order to clean and seal the inside as preservation  Previously manufactured brackets can now be bolted into place, along with the air-springs  Because I was bored of tripping over the axle - literally - stash it under the car and bolt up the air-springs.  I was also bored of tripping over the replacement air-tank, so via some thick 5mm hard rubber - I've bolted that up too. It has - Compressor connected via check valve
- Blow off valve
- Compressor switch
- Connection to a PCL quick release in the boot
- Two connections to the valves/switches
I've still got to sort a drain for water, but the fittings for that are on back-order. I'm also going to put some fixings in to the boot floor, so I can build a "skid-plate" at a later date to protect everything.  I've been eagerly awaiting my delivery of air switches from the States. But they arrived on Saturday, so I wasted no time/skill/materials in knocking up a prototype mount for them  That panel isn't going to work, as the gauges will need angling towards the driver. I'm going to make a Mk2 from steel, but that gives me the dimensions I need. The switches are pretty heavy duty, even without any air pressure, so they need to be firmly mounted. I'm using two pairs of switches, as that makes things more complicated and expensive, which kinda happens in my world sometimes. But the advantage is I get 2 x 12mm feeds, and and 2 x 12mm exhausts, so it should be a very fast system. But connecting and bending all the 12mm tubing is going to be fun. I even had to linish some of the fittings to get them to fit  Fingers crossed my weeks holiday is approved for next month, and I can get this back on its wheels  Thanks for looking as always |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Nov 10, 2018 19:14:12 GMT
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So the petrol tank has been powder-coated, and the inside treated with the Frost kit. Then I refitted it, I hope that is the last time that has to come out, it is a pretty awkward thing to fit.  The fuel pump is on the left, but the Viair 350C compressor is mounted on the other side, and an air hose - which may come in handy one day. Running the 12mm air lines under the car, was a horrible job. The tube is so springy it whacked me in the face a couple of time - ouch. It also doesn't have a tight bend radius, which makes it tricky - no piccies alas. All the 4-link is bolted up too, so nothing else to do but to pop the wheels back on, and drop it off the axle stands. Ohh -yeah - that has come down a treat onto the bumpstops.  As the compressor is wired and piped, and I'd mocked up the switches and gauges into a temporary panel - time for a test. Yeah that is snappy It was well worth the pain of running the big lines, and getting the valves imported from the States. When the missus saw it - her question was - when am I getting the pimp hat - which doesn't seem such a bad idea Next on the list is to make a proper switch/gauge panel. Thanks for looking |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Nov 16, 2018 22:40:48 GMT
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Last update for 3-4 weeks, as a big project at work is going to take my focus. Still I feel I've been making good progress. The handbrake cable was too long because of the narrower axle. PID's suggestion of a A55 cable was a good one, but I already had a new handbrake cable. So I modified the actuators to take out the slack  The original on the right. Then I spent way too long fitting up the rear brakes with all new components. That allowed me to pipe up the hydraulics and get the handbrake cable installed and working.  Some proper clevis's for the cable and some grease in the handbrake cable and that area is done So onto a very time consuming fab project. The mountings for the air controls and gauges. I wanted it fairly low key, with the gauges angled towards the driver. The switches had to be roughly in reach from the drivers seat, as well as leaving scope to allow a gentle curve on the 12mm air pipes. This is the second attempt at bending up a panel. Getting the gauge pods on the right angle was very tricky.  The paint I used was "truck bedliner" in an aerosol, one of my favourite finishes. Here is the panel fitted up and in place.  I still need to connect up the pipes, but it was getting late, and that is an awkward job because of the limited bend radius. I'll eventually put some vinyl trimmed wooden sides on, but no rush for that. Thanks for looking. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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Nov 21, 2018 18:45:59 GMT
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I might have a use for the Bedliner paint, do you mind telling what make and where to get it from???
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I might have a use for the Bedliner paint, do you mind telling what make and where to get it from??? Last can was from Amazon as I had Prime membership, but eBay also sell it - Autotek black bedliner |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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totti
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,153
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Nov 23, 2018 12:44:06 GMT
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Hi!
Impressive work!How could i missed that....?read the entire thread....great work!
And i love estates!
Keep up the good work!
Cheers
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65 'Ford Taunus 17m
66' Ford Taunus 17m Turnier
73' Ford Taunus
63' Ford Taunus Transit 1250
72'Ford Escort 2000cc
71'Ford Escort 1700 4 door
89'Ford Escort Express
87'Ford Fiesta Diesel
64'Ford Cortina 1500 deluxe
57'Volvo PV 444 Califonia
54'Peugeot 203 Commerciale
2004 Harley Davidson Fat Boy
78'Zündapp ZR 20
88'MZ ETZ 250
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Dec 23, 2018 21:18:45 GMT
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So time to crack on with converting the front suspension to air. A recent business trip to the US netted me a pair of air springs for about £65 But I put a bit of air into one, as an experiment, and it over extended and wouldn't roll back down.  I tried to get them to go back to their proper shape, but every time they would just wrinkle. I hit upon the ideal of a 100mm piece of tube to hold the shape. I then made this a snug fit by sacraficing the end of an old welding gaunlett. Worked a treat  Before going too much further - time to make sure there is enough travel in the front suspension wishbones etc. So I took out the well worn coil springs and bumpstops, and put it back on the ground to see what it looks like.  Yes I'm liking that a lot. Let's continue. Dropping the front crossmember was pretty straightforward, but it was a very very heavy thing to lift up onto the toolchest so I could work at a sensible height. It was also very oily, so 3/4 of a can of brake cleaner, and an old sock got the worst off. It wasn't rusty - bonus, I can even reuse the bushes - double bonus.  The eventual plan is to follow Seth's lead and fit disc brakes, via MGB stub axles, and king-pins. But I believe this adds positive camber. So I've cut the mounting plate for the lever arm shocks off, and re-welded them 8mm further in. I'll finish the welding once everything is mocked up.  Flip the crossmember over, yep it is still bl00dy heavy. The coil spring guides have to come out. They are spot welded into place. The pattern is shockingly random, which made them difficult to find and drill out. My spot weld drill wouldn't reach a lot of the welds, and was getting pretty blunt. So the powerfile, pry bars and big hammers were called into the squad. Very hard work.  With the guide removed, I then had this weird plate to deal with too. It doesn't seem to perform any function, and is held on with spot welds that can't be seen, so again more brute force needed. Two spot welds on one side, just one on the other side !! With the crossmember still upside down, grab an airspring, and the original coil spring plate for a sanity check. Yep I can work with that. I've got a length of 127mm OD pipe to put a pocket in that plate to get everything nice'n'low.  Thanks for looking, and a Happy Christmas everybody. |
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Last Edit: Dec 23, 2018 21:25:14 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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