1952 Jowett Jupiter Sports Restoration - Engine

Smashing stuff.

Prepped the underside of the nearside wings and then applied a seam sealer to the rolled edge on the wheelarch where a steel wire froms a brace for the edge - the sealer will prevent crud / water from filling the rolled edge and providing a base for the wire to rust - The front wing will get a stone chip applied to it prior to the paint being applied (the front wing undersides are seen when the bonnet is lifted) whilst the rear wings will be subject to a Dinitrol treatment - the alloy that the panels are formed from is pretty soft and is easily dented by small stones thrown up from the road wheels so the underside of the wings needs something on them to prevent this



I made location templates up for the nearside door hinges & striker plate for the door catch - this will easily locate the hinges when rehanging the door after the car is painted and avoids damage to the fresh paint







Door removed and the sill drilled for the rivet nuts which in turn will retain the floor section which is plywood (common for the period of the car)





Apertures prepped and profiling commenced





Meanwhile the offside door is virtually complete just needs a little rub over to complete

For 5 minutes effort and a throw away cereal box they save no end of heartache when it comes to reassembling a freshly painted car - main thing being you can confidently hang hinged panels and get them to the point that may require very minor adjustment - but at least you are hanging the door and not fearing damaged paint has you attempt to close it - especially on something like this that has a very close tolerance on the door gaps.

Loads more loose ends tied up

Approx 20 redundant holes drilled in the bulkhead were welded up & dressed back





The new aperture for the hinge box on the nearside required alteration - requiring a plate to lower edge and the elongated bolt holes closing up a little



The slot is a drain - otherwise the hinge boxes fill with water on occasions if the car is used in driving rain



Then just a skim of filler where required - once the car is fitted back up the bulkhead is barely visible



The bulkhead side return panels get hit by all the debris thrown up by the road wheels so I applied a stone chip coating to these



The bonnet / wing end flanges would also get peppered by the road wheel debris so these also got the stone chip coating applied



The profiles to the offside A post & door are now completed



Made up the hinge location templates prior to removing the door to allow access to prep the apertures



Meanwhile the aperture on the nearside is now completed





The last of the panels were removed namely the offside rear wing



And the spare wheel flap



Which leaves me to delouse the cockpit and sort any prep work for primer



Along with sorting a few loose bits - windscreen frame and dashboard closing panel along with the two door capping's



Meanwhile my quality control inspector 'Sid' paid his weekly visit - thankfully he was fine with everything but clearly indicated that I need to start getting some paint on the car

Woo! No more welding! That swatch almost looks like flat paint rather than metallic... almost. Very subtle effect.

Wow, has it really been twelve weeks? Life is really moving fast these days because it doesn't feel like much over a month!! Your steady (and in my book quick) progress must have thrown me off. Especially considering this is both fabrication and welding works as well as the body work of which it is fair to say that you have taken every care to work out as much damage in the metal itself so all fillers etc. are nothing more then skims!

I'm just wondering here, but will you be building the car after paint as well? Or is this, apart from paint, the last we're going to see of it?

Any new projects waiting in line? I just love to follow your work...

Alex - Once painted I will fit the panels to the car and undertake the rustproofing - then it is going back to the owner and he will complete the fit up and refit the rebuilt engine - The owner is a very good friend of mine so I will post pictures of it to the thread once the car is complete and returned to the road

There is quite a list of projects due into the workshop over the next 6 - 8 months- in fact I am so busy that I am going to have to sell a couple of my own projects has I will never get the chance to get them done whilst I am this busy!

1947 Jowett Bradford Utility - Full rolling body restoration & paint / some trim - Thread already running retrorides.proboards.com/thread/196036/1947-jowett-bradford-utility-van

Ford Corsair - Panels, fabrication, welding & full bare metal paint job (RR car)

1929 Jowett Long 2 Tourer - Rebuilt chassis & new body - In for concours paint job (has already been in another bodyshop who has made a mess of it - it is coming to me to be sorted out properly)

1968 Mk1 Mini Copper - Body shell - New floor pans, inner & outer front wings, fabrication, welding & bare metal paint job

1974 Alfa Romeo 2000 GTV - Full bare metal paint job, welding , fabrication, panel work etc - provisional booking at present

It make me think of a grown up Frogeye Sprite.

Great work.

Got the guide coat on to the main body tub first thing





Then masked the white undersides on the bonnet and the front wings up





Had to juggle around the workshop to make the maximum use of space in order to get the remaining panels into polyester primer - in the end I had to do them in two stages

Bonnet, both doors, windcreeen frame and one of the back wings ready to go - best way to do the panels such has doors and wings is suspended so that you can apply /spray the paint around all of the panel edges









Sods law that my paint supplies did not turn up until 15.30 but still once they arrived I could get cracking



Polyester applied





With the weather being so favourable I could pull the bonnet outside on it's stand to create some space in the workshop and with a bit of panel juggling I could hang the final 3 wings and get the polyester on to them



Next up is the guide coats and then lots of blocking back