1996 Vw t4 caravelle "Club 8"

God bless the engine crane!

Progress report--
To be honest, not much.
Why is it, when you're waiting for payday, it takes so long?




I bought a loom for a 2.5 tdi off ebay and spent all week downloading wiring diagrams and trying to figure out where all the connectors go. I got it sussed eventually.
However, that was only engine side of the bulkhead.
I still need to sort this lot that goes to the pedals and fusebox .




What a pain the butt!!!

Sadly, my engine savings took a bit of a dip this week when my daily driver peugeot 306 decided to break a coil spring and put it through the tyre...gutted.
Was gonna scrap it at the end of the month. Definately scrapping it now.

So now I need to find a gearbox from a 2.5tdi (for a sensible price) and a complete engine from a Volvo v70 or 850 turbo diesel.
There arent many complete cars about. There are a few but they have high mileages. Not too bothered about mileage as I will refurb most of the head.
Keep em peeled for me guys. Volvo v70 or 850 2.5tdi.

The 2.4 gearbox will have lower gearing than a tdi one. Tdi got two different boxes, the 88 (non-intercooled) has the 02B box which as stated above is a golf box beefed up. The 102 got an Iveco box which VW called the 02G which is higher geared and has a different gear linkage. If you're fitting a Volvo lump I'd go for the 02G.

I bumped into a guy at mcdonalds today with a 102hp t4. He kindly let me poke about under the bonnet. I think the blue plug connector goes to the top of the coolant outlet on the front of the block (thermostat housing?).

So thats the bulkhead side wrapped up..
Quick question though -

My 2.4 loom has 2 wires coming from the alternator A blue wire which goes to pin f3 on the fusebox and a red/white wire going to pin f9. I think this red/white wire is for a rev counter feed? My 2.4 doesnt have a rev counter.
The 2.5 loom I'm fitting does not have this red/white wire from the alternator. Where does the 2.5 rev counter take its feed from?

Today I carefully extracted the crappy aftermarket alarm that had been badly fitted and droped the fusebox down for a better look at it.

Jesus its going to be hard to fit this new loom to the back of the fusebox!!!
I think the only way I can do this, along with the new pedal box is going to be to remove the complete dashboard

The tdi gets the rev counter feed from the ecu rather than the alternator

full 2.4d engine and gearbox on ebay for £450 if you fancy a quick fix, box has got to worth £250 on its own. Easy engines to turbo too.

Right well after months and months of inactivity and trying to save up some cash for an engine, this finally happened -




Removed from a Volvo v70 with 120k. Good for 140hp as standard😂
All for.....£350 sssshhhhh!

Fair play it weighs a tonne. Going to strip it down and tidy all the externsl components. May rebuild head but not sure.

My biggest decision at the moment is whether to wire it all in and use the vw ECU (with a remap) or, after talking to a bit of a Volvo "expert" ditch the wiring and Ecu and build a hybrid manual pump.

I know thats a bit of a backwards step but I really don't want to be forking out £100plus every time a MAF senser fails. Which they do a lot.
Anyway, progress at last!!

Nice project. Volvo engines meant to be stronger. If you going for power-mechanical pump. For economy-fit ECU. Thats what I'm currently doing, but gone easy route- full golf Mk3 TDI 1Z donor from salvage auction. Good luck with yours, will be following.

Have made a bit of progress this week. I've stripped a lot off the block that isnt needed (Volvo mounts etc) and removed the inlet manifold and auxilliaries.

The massive horizontally mounted oil filter and cooler bracket has been removed to be replaced with a Vw vertical filter and bracket ( which I stupidly threw away with my old engine).
The one thing that has pleased me so far is that the block really is exactly the same as the Vw units. All mounting holes in same places and I can even fit my mounting brackets from my 2.4 non turbo engine🖒🖒🖒🖒
I was worried that I would have to shell out for auxilliary setup from a turbo engine but no, everything is transferable.
Only thing I really need to source is a dip stick tube as this also has the turbo oil return pipe.
So far all going to plan.
I'll strip as much as I can and replace crank seals before fitting.
Part of me wants to get it all in and running ASAP but I really want to detail it while its out.
I'm aiming for this sort of detail-