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Surprised they didn't use some sort of putty or primitive sealant on that bottom edge. Perhaps they didn't expect the vans to last long enough in service to warrant the extra cost and time? It's a pre war design and went into production just after the second world war - I don't think that there was too much choice about in those days has to what was available for sealing products - cloth braid was used in quite a few areas has a seal / packer but the problem being that this absorbed water and where it could not dry out it exaggerated the problem. Has you say they did not put too much thought into a vehicles lifespan either in those days. |
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Jan 22, 2018 20:02:24 GMT
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Removed the nearside front panel and trued the flange edges up  Cleaned any minor filler residue from the radiator cowl & inner wing panel  Templated the first wing piping bead  Then trimmed the bead to length and punched the bolt holes through - the wing & front panel can now have the final trail fitting in the morning  Offside front wing was dressed back with the DA - went over it for a final time with the hammer & dolly prior to applying the first polyester skimming coat  Then sanded back and the second one applied  Then guide coated so I can commence profiling again in the morning  Meanwhile I prepped several of the smaller panels, chassis end caps, trafficator aperture covers, brackets, front number plate panel, dashboard & some inspection panels  Then treated them all with the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 rust treatment    More updates tomorrow |
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 22, 2018 20:33:38 GMT
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This feels tantalisingly close to the primer stage now that you're onto the really fiddly bits.
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Jan 23, 2018 19:16:22 GMT
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This really is a most excellent thread. Thanks for taking the time to show every step, it really is an education.
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Jan 23, 2018 20:02:07 GMT
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This feels tantalisingly close to the primer stage now that you're onto the really fiddly bits. It's not far away now but I have seen a lot of restorations both professional & private lost at this point they get so close to the paint stage that they start to rush and forget things - it's fairly critical at this stage that loose panels are checked for fitting along with any trim that may effect the fitting of the panels, door looks & apertures are checked along with panel alignment and one of the main failings that I witness time after time is that any holes that require drilling for trim, fittings, catches, lamps, number plates etc are all done at this stage - if left until painted you then have to drill and risk marking / damaging the paint but more importantly the hole just drilled is unprotected by primer & paint and will just rust from that point - it's a laborious but critical process and makes the fitting up / finishing of the restoration so much easier whilst looking all the better for the effort that's been made in the first place |
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2018 20:50:31 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 23, 2018 20:09:18 GMT
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This really is a most excellent thread. Thanks for taking the time to show every step, it really is an education. Thanks - And you are just up the road from me - if you are ever over my way you are very welcome to call in and have a look / chat / brew - I'm in Baughaust (Tadley) - Chris |
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2018 20:10:17 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 23, 2018 20:45:16 GMT
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Offside front wing profiled back & third skim applied  Profiled back again & fourth skim applied along with the guide coat  Nearside rear wing is now on it's third profiling skim and is quite close to where it needs to be  Started to progress the smaller panels - dashboard & front number plate plinth have had the first profiling skim applied & sanded back - but will need further work yet  Front chassis end caps are completed  Bolted the nearside front panel up with the piping bead in place  Then templated the next section of piping bead for the wing and punched the bolt holes through  Then fastened the wing on to check that everything fitted correctly  Just a few minor tweaks on this and a little trimming to length on the piping bead and that is the front nearside corner completed  |
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Last Edit: Jan 23, 2018 20:48:36 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 23, 2018 22:12:17 GMT
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I've thoroughly enjoyed reading this, not just because of the level of craftmanship but I love how you have incorporated tips and 'how to' guides (of which I have taken many screenshots) of the process and the intricate details required to get the best finish possible. They are extremely informative to a novice such as myself. Bob on.
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Jan 23, 2018 22:24:03 GMT
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In my mind I have "liked" every post above... I agree with Coakers quite a bit...the how to stuff is useful and valuable. I have put your ideas to work here many times over and am better for it!.
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Jan 24, 2018 12:43:41 GMT
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This really is a most excellent thread. Thanks for taking the time to show every step, it really is an education. Thanks - And you are just up the road from me - if you are ever over my way you are very welcome to call in and have a look / chat / brew - I'm in Baughaust (Tadley) - Chris Thanks Chris, may well take you up on that kind offer one day. Cheers, Steve |
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990 
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Jan 24, 2018 13:42:05 GMT
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Loving the updates Chris.
I asked you about the Hydrate before, do you brush it on? And does it matter then if you sand through it in spots , or if it's given time to cure is it forming a chemical reaction with the steel, so taking a few spots off doesn't lead to problems? I'll be attacking the floor and rear of my Golf relatively soon so trying to decide what to do.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Jan 24, 2018 20:07:51 GMT
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Loving the updates Chris. I asked you about the Hydrate before, do you brush it on? And does it matter then if you sand through it in spots , or if it's given time to cure is it forming a chemical reaction with the steel, so taking a few spots off doesn't lead to problems? I'll be attacking the floor and rear of my Golf relatively soon so trying to decide what to do. Brushed on is fine just try to keep it neatish that's all (it sets quite hard so if you leave runs / or blobs they are quite difficult to remove) - and then just gently abrade over the top of it once it's dry to create a key for whatever surface treatment you use over the top of it - sanding through in a few places is not an issue |
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Last Edit: Jan 24, 2018 20:08:28 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 24, 2018 20:50:18 GMT
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Completed the profiles to the offside front wing  Then applied a profiling glaze  Now guide coated & ready for a final sand back in the morning   Profiled the nearside rear wing  Then removed it in order to access flange edge - just needs some minor work tomorrow to complete it  Completed the profiles on the steel dash panel & the front number plate plinth  I need to stop on top of all the smaller painted items so this is the second batch - cleaned off & rust treatment applied Front bumper  Air filter body & horn  Other bits of the air filter  And the radiator cowl mesh insert  Still another 3 batches of small painted metal trims to get prepped yet - but getting to the end of the profiling on the van should speed this up a little |
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Jan 24, 2018 22:49:08 GMT
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keep her lite , looking good
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Thanks for the reply re Hydrate.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Jan 25, 2018 14:52:08 GMT
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Sorry to bring this up if you have already covered it, Is there a trim piece to go over the panel joint below the window in the rear section?
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Jan 25, 2018 21:14:05 GMT
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Got the offside front wing blocked back hence it can now be removed to have the flange edge worked  I will sand this back in the morning and then refit the wing to check the fit  Removed the offside front panel to allow the templating, cutting & fitting of the wing piping  Then refitted the front panel  Along with the small piece of piping for the vertical joint of the two front panels  Skimmed & blocked back the front bumper which will be refinished in black   Completed all the profiling on the nearside rear wing  Removed & blanked off the rebate in the offside door aperture of the redundant door catch with a hardwood fillet  Skimmed over and blocked back but will require a further skimming in the morning  Prepped the new alloy upper panel on the offside with the DA & P120's - just had to undertake some minor profiling adjacent to the door aperture  More updates tomorrow |
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Last Edit: Jan 25, 2018 21:14:26 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 25, 2018 21:33:35 GMT
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Sorry to bring this up if you have already covered it, Is there a trim piece to go over the panel joint below the window in the rear section? Pete - Alloy profile strips cover the joints but first the roof has to be covered - this is a fabric roof that is stretched & tacked into place on the ash frame - a padding under the fabric gives the fabric a softer finish - the terminal edge of the fabric is covered by an alloy J section roof gutter which runs down either side of the van starting on the windscreen pillars and running around the rear pillar panels and across the top of the rear doors - the factory formed the rain channels in 3 pieces - 1 down each side & 1 across the rear doors    The front roof fabric joint across the top of the windscreen aperture is finished with an alloy radius edge strip   The roof has to be done first and the J / rain channels fitted has these dictate the height of the alloy radius edge strip that runs vertical between the rear panels and the rear pillars  This strip determines the length of the horizontal alloy radius strip that covers the joint of the two rear panels  All of this has to be undertaken prior to paint has the rain gutters & joining strips are all painted in the body colour - from experience it's very difficult to paint these off the van & then fit them - I much prefer to shape the gutters & trims, etch prime them and then fit them with a flexible sealer prior to paint |
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Last Edit: Jan 25, 2018 22:09:29 GMT by Deleted
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Jan 25, 2018 22:26:47 GMT
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Thank you for posting that, the reason i asked is I noticed some difference with the vehicle in the posted request for info from the previous page.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Jan 25, 2018 23:30:18 GMT
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How do you avoid the 'cushion seams' you see on some older paint jobs? Can't think how else to describe it. Where you get panels meeting, usually doors, it's like the edges are slightly lower than the rest of the panel and as the light hits it you get this very slight cushioned effect.
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