JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Hoping someone can give me some pointers, still not ha much experience with injection shenanigans (this is a friend's car). It's fine under normal slow cruising at 20-30mph, but if you give it a bit of welly it goes all jerky. First time it happened she called the AA who diagnosed "fuel starvation issue". So it seems like it's not spraying the right mixture in? My gut instinct is something electrical - sensor somewhere or pump? Grateful for any suggestions of tests to do or if I should just go ahead and buy parts to swap out!
Not sure if relevant but for a while it's also had an intermittent idle problem - it'll idle very low, and cut out if you don't blip the throttle. I understand there's a common problem with throttle body on these so wonder if it's to do with that?
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Davey
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Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,199
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This sounds very very familiar, i've had three of these little things so let me guide you! Rough running and stalling, comon for the Throttle position sensors on these to die and give those symptoms, also clean the idle control valve. Both of these are really easy if you take the throttle body off, which is also very easy. You may also have an air leak after the throttle body. They also like to kill o2 sensors but it doesnt sound like that kinda thing. I uprated mine to a ga16 throttle body (Almera 1.6.) and had to blank it off so this image should give you something to work with.  That is where the idle control valve used to be, it is slightly different on the standard unit but clean out those holes and the unit that attaches to it, make sure its all free moving. Below is the standard unit.  Black sensor at the bottom left at an angle is the throttle position sensor, this was easily replaced with a new unit of ebay, this was 5 years ago but I'm sure they are still available. It just unscrews then pulls out with a little force to overcome the o rings. The unit on the front with the open end, screws sticking out, that is the idle control valve, its this you need to clean out as you can see it has a plunger tyre arrangement, if i remember correctly that rotates. Where the opening is on the front there will be a sensor attached. As you can see the whole thing can be removed and given a good cleaning. So poor idle should be the idle control valve. Rough running should be the throttle position sensor. Hopefully that helps. |
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2017 15:47:27 GMT by Davey
K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Awesome, thanks, will start with those!
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Feb 11, 2017 18:53:36 GMT
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also clean the idle control valve. Looks like my throttle body is a bit different to the one in your pic. I can't work out which is the idle control valve. Any ideas? Pics : imgur.com/a/3OSwA |
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Davey
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Resident Tyre Nerd.
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Feb 11, 2017 19:32:58 GMT
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The big opening with carbon deposits is where it lives looks as though you've already found it.
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Feb 11, 2017 20:05:45 GMT
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Great, thanks!
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Feb 11, 2017 20:20:08 GMT
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Also don't ignore the ignition system, I've driven two cars (on my own daily at the time) where drive it steady and cruise was no problem, but give it any load it would loose power and go jerky/ mis-fire. The leads had broken just up from the plug and the spark was having to jump that gap, before sparking in the cylinder. Higher loads gives higher cylinder pressure and makes it harder for the spark to occur in the cylinder, so the spark looses all energy before lighting the mixture.
The clue in both cases was when you removed the lead from the spark plug, the top of the plug was all black with carbon deposits from the lead breaking down. But you may get similar at the coil/distributor end of the leads
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froggy
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Feb 12, 2017 12:22:31 GMT
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Dry joints on the maf circuit board , done quite a few with poor idle , stall symptoms , plenty of guides on YouTube
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Thanks for the suggestions. Plug leads all look ok, not sure where the maf circuit board is though! :s TPS has been crazy hard to get a replacement. The ones motor factors have listed is WRONG, and the correct one seems to be £100+.I've bought a second hand complete throttle body from ebay, hopefully it will fix.
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Second hand throttle body seems to have fixed it!
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Davey
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Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,199
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Mar 10, 2017 11:58:21 GMT
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Second hand throttle body seems to have fixed it! Great news! Its always something in that area with these. |
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus
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