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Hi all, need a bit of help with this now, basically running a st170 lump on jenveys,cat cams and emerald management in my mk2 escort. But I have never got this running right as I believe the guy I bought the package from timed it up for a stock st170(stock cams!!) and I believe the valves have been bent on cylinder 4 because of this , as it never ran at all on cylinder 4 (new exhaust manifold and all 3 primaries ran warm but 4 is stone cold. ive tried everything , coil leads plugs, swapping injectors but it has definitely bent some or more than one valve on cylinder 4 as its ticking (yes the dreaded bent valve ticking noise)and not running at all. ive stripped the head removed it to get checked over by my engine builder (boss racing) but my question is has anyone got any tips on how to time these up as I have still kept the vvt. I have been researching into it and there is a lot of varied advice. I know the vvt cam makes it a bit harder and I know I have to time them to cat cams settings, but can anyone give a rundown on how they have done a vvt st170 ? just purely need guidance on it as I cannot get my hands on a ford manual for this to even give me a clearer outlook on it all cheers in advance- Gav
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are they vvt profile cams? what's the part number for the cams? look them up and that will give you the info you need for setting them up.
you also need to check with someone who knows this engine just how much space you have at TDC between the valve and piston, the wilder you go on the cam the closer the valve will be to the piston as its starting to open, on a hydraulic tappet you need 1.5 to 2mm clearance static, to allow for tappet pump up, valve bounce and rod stretch.
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hi , yes they are vvt specific uprgraded cams. cat cam 2291013 profile.its an oem upgrade so no machining needed it says on their site. just been on their site to get the details. I know on a normal non vvt zetec its a case of crank pin cam bar to lock cams in position and go from there. but with the vvt its a black art to me, from what Ive seen and read it turns as you time it? its confusing me a fair bit as i have never timed in cams like this before and would be nice to have someone to step by step explain how to time these cams in correctly while dealing with the vvt cam pulley :/ heres the specs from the website as well www.catcams.co.uk/acatalog/2291013.pdf
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if its a vvt profile it'll be designed to have the lobes at the correct angle vs the keyways, there's no adjustment possible.
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oh I know, the exhaust side has an adjustable Vernier, but my question is to stop this happening again, what is the fool proof correct way to time these cams in ? from my specs the exhaust cam has full lift at 112 degrees , and the vvt inlet cam has full lift at 145 degrees. so with a timing gauge on the crank pulley time the cams to those marks at TDC right? but my other question is the vvt pulley on these are something ive not come across before and again how do I tackle timing up that one? thanks for the help so far fella it'll sink in with me this is the first time I have done anything like this and its unfortunate the previous owner didn't time this properly to begin with
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on the inlet, just pin it as you would with a standard cam and if Catcams have done their machine work accurately you wont have any problems, as for the exhaust it depends how tight the clearance is on a stock piston.
the easiest most accurate way to dial them is in with the lift @ TDC method, so need a dial gauge indicator to go on the tappet, and a mark on the crank pulley to alight with an appropriate location on the block or timing cover.
if the engine pins at tdc then that is accurate enough to locate tdc, make an appropriate pair of marks, the finer the better, big splodges of tippex arent accurate enough.
if, like most peugeot engines they lock at mid stroke then I make up a wheel with 90 degree increments marked which fits on the face of the crank pulley over the bolt, pin the crank, mark the cover next to one of the lines, remove pin and rotate the engine till the next mark which will be TDC.
if you suspect bent valves from incorrect valve timing you are more likely to bend all 8, as its on a different loom and emerald I would be checking the wiring, could be a lack of signal to an injector (not likely to be spark issue, as its a wasted spark coil)
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cool cheers , regarding your emerald comment about the injector it definitely works rthe spark plug is/was covered with fuel on the 4th. swapped injectors as well, so I don't think it was a wiring fault in all honesty?
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also to add , when I first ran it up cylinder 1 and 4 was not firing , then after a few moments cylinder 1 fired. I know cylinder 1 and 4 are controlled together by the coil pack so that was why I first thought ages ago to change the coil pack.. but it didn't solve it cylinder 4 was not working hence my suspicions of bent valves especially with the ticking noise happening from 4th cylinder .
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do they have hydraulic tappets? if the heads off then wait for the engineers verdict any marks on the piston CROWNs?
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