Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Well, here he is in all of his Crusty Glory!  Weighs an absolute ton, but thankfully I managed to load and unload without life altering knee divots like our very own @johnnybravo. Mainly due to the removal of the pump and motor before collection. Loosely bolted back together for a test run as the previous owner informed me that there was a rattle/knock when up to pressure.  Is an HPC compressor - D20?- but other than that I know nothing...  Now here comes the question. I need to reverse the rotation of the electric motor as I noticed that the compressor turns the opposite way to the arrow on the drive wheel, problem is I don't have the faintest what I am doing.... So here are a few pictures and hopefully some clever peoples will tell me what I have to do.   And a picture from under the lid of the motor.  My Googlefoo just confused the hell out of me - I was just going to swap over the positive and negative and be done with it but apparently that is not recommended..... Would appreciate any advice as I am hoping that the noise when up to pressure could be that the pump is rotating the wrong way. P.  |
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2016 15:12:10 GMT by Paul Y
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At the moment, it's wired as per the bottom drawing. If you change it to being wired as per the top drawing, rotation will be opposite of what it is now
Basically you need to move the two brass jumpers that at present are orientated up down, to running left right.
All wires stay in the same place, just the two brass jumpers move.
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2016 15:24:40 GMT by Deleted
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Thats what i thought as well - i have to meddle with this stuff sometimes and i just follow the diagram that thankfully is included with anything modern - they do not expect rocket scientists to be touching this stuff .
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Thank you gentlemen! Have you found out what your beast is yet Johnny? P. |
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Yep, a bloody thirsty cow....😂
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I think To reverse a motor you need to change two of the connections around
Swap V1 to U1 and Z2 to U2
But this one has the links so just spin them round.
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Last Edit: Dec 4, 2016 18:57:10 GMT by pauly22
1994 BMW 525i touring
2004 BMW Z4 sorn and broken
1977 Ford Escort
1982 Ford Capri getting restored
1999 Mazda B2500 daily driver.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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Quick update. Swapped over the jumpers, as advised, and we now have proper rotation. A welcome effect has been that the compressor no longer jumps about and runs very smoothly. There is still a faint squeal from the pump but that is now intermittent rather than a continuous cat caught in the mangle noise. Next job is to give it a quick spray with some left over cans and plumb it in. Thanks all,for the advice. P. |
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You sure the belt is tight enough? Squeal could be on start up as it may not have an unloader valve that's working, akin to trying to start the motor against compression?
Do you get a hiss of air when it starts? That would be the unloader valve venting off pressure to give the motor half a chance to get up to speed without battling on full load
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Last Edit: Dec 14, 2016 8:22:11 GMT by Deleted
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Dec 14, 2016 11:39:21 GMT
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There's a video doing the rounds lately of an air compressor tank going boom... Check over it thoroughly before running to full pressure. Apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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This one?
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842 
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Thats a sobering thought! My compressor is 70 years old.  |
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The reason Compressors explode is bad welds, if it's been around for 70 years, I think you'll be safe!
Corrosion will cause a leak, not an explosion.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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Thats ok then!
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,948
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You sure the belt is tight enough? Squeal could be on start up as it may not have an unloader valve that's working, akin to trying to start the motor against compression? Do you get a hiss of air when it starts? That would be the unloader valve venting off pressure to give the motor half a chance to get up to speed without battling on full load Sorry just caught up on this again. The squeal is when it gets up to pressure, not at start up. Seems to have calmed down the more it has been used - as for going boom... P. |
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As the compressor reaches working pressure,the resistance to turning is at its greatest,hence the belt trying to slip. Most likely it's a fairly old belt and gone a bit hard and glazed. Bit of a clean up with some sand paper or application of some belt dressing and a retension,normally stops the squeal. Glad to hear a bit of running has sorted yours ,Paul 😊
That Old Chestnut of a video with that particular tank going boom,does the rounds every couple of years. Quite awhile back,the old guy from the insurance company, that used to check our compressors annually ,showed me an article possibly about that incident, or at least an incident very similar. It was midsummer with high ambient temperatures. An investigation afterwards concluded that the compressor unit itself was knackered and bypassing oil into the tank.The tank itself,prior to exploding would most likely have passed a pressure test. Compressor oil is thin,almost diesel like in some instances, and all the extra heat being generated by the compressor running overly long trying to reach cut off pressure,combined with high ambient temperatures, resulted in the oil in the tank igniting. Most likely from a glowing red hot bit of carbon out of the compressor. BOOM...So, if your compressor,new or old,develops a thirst for oil, THINK 😊
As for the comments about corrosion just causing leaks,well, people also used to think the world was flat.😉
Having been on the receiving end of a pressure vessel that failed,yes they do leak, straight after the bang, and before your ears stop ringing. Might be something to the industry standard procedure for hydrotesting vessels instead of just pumping them up with air and listening for a hiss,but hey, what do I know....
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Last Edit: Jan 6, 2017 5:35:13 GMT by Deleted
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fad
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,781
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Welds fatigue. Simples. Good welds become bad ones eventually.
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