psycho83
East of England
Rhythm and Booze
Posts: 777
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Dec 21, 2016 14:43:52 GMT
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Looks ace, but I'm not sure that the front will be able to sit quite that low considering the front suspension setup. I'd be interested to know if you find blocks and U bolts that fit. I also need to start searching for some in the new year. I did me a quick and dirty photoshop, but using actual measurements. I bought the rear down by 3 inches as that's the biggest blocks i'd ever want to fit. I raked the front down just a touch more. (I need to get the tape out when i'm with the car to check if I can actually go this low, but it's what i'm aiming for) Then I found a pic of the rough style of wheel I'm after and threw it on there; did some manipulating to get it to a size where I think it works. Then I measured them and err, they're gonna be 20" Is that to big? Though I think it will work with my English Pro-Touring look...?
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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Dec 21, 2016 15:01:16 GMT
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Yeah, I don't think i'll be able to go quite that low, but like you, i'm not amiss to scraping the front end everywhere, so it will be pretty low.
I measured the axle at about 3" (I should really find my calipers) , so plenty of Chevy etc axles; and they do love a good lowering block in the states so u-bolts should be easily available from there
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
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Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Dec 21, 2016 16:04:28 GMT
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Interceptor rims? I don't think you can get these in more than 17" diameter though. ![](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/stevehodder/IMG_0424_zpsda6b8579.jpg)
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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Dec 21, 2016 21:36:49 GMT
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so u-bolts should be easily available from there There's a few decent spring companies in the UK. Somewhere like Owen Springs would likely be able to make a set of lowering springs if you told them how much of a drop you wanted. A set of rear UK Bolts from the back end of a LWB Land Rover (Series II with Rover pattern axle) might provide an extra inch or two in length as the spring pack is 12 leaf on them.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,246
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1962 Rover 100 P4glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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I ran a Rover 80 for a number of years (and lots and lots of £ notes), which is the four-cylinder 2286cc version of these, and the one that a Land-Rover Tdi "just" bolts into. The sixes, as you've been correctly informed, require a lot more buggering about to do that swap. I repowered mine with a 2.5 litre petrol four-pot from a late 80s Land-Rover 110 and it went pretty well. With hindsight though, I should have bought a six-pot like yours and repowered it, as you're considering, with a more modern six. They're a big, lazy, comfortable drive and a fourpot you've got to rag hard to make progress isn't really in keeping.
I had a set of shorter front springs wound by Owen Springs, which dropped the front by about 3". It drove like total rubbish; crashing over bumps, bump-steering badly and the front crossmember grounding out regularly. I put up with it for a few weeks but it was basically undriveable, so I reverted to stock. I looked at revising the front suspension to give me a bit of a drop without the compromises to driveability, but the chassis is already pretty low and the amount of work to get a minimal drop just seemed too much aggro to me. I reckon you'd be better off dropping the arch on the wing to get a better line around the wheel.
As for bigger wheels and tyres, you need to take a tape to the inner tubs, particularly at the back, as there's not much room there as stock. Obviously, if you're planning chopping stuff about, you can get anything in. There's not much room in the spare wheel box either, so you might need to keep an original wheel with a 165x15 on it as a spare.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on with it.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dropping the arches doesn't really get the sills closer to the ground unfortunately...
*n
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Top grammar tips! Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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Interceptor rims? I don't think you can get these in more than 17" diameter though. ![](http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/stevehodder/IMG_0424_zpsda6b8579.jpg) This is awful, apologies if it's someones on here, but them rims look about as home on that car as they would (fill in appropriate slur) Looking at my 'shop and looking at pictures of Filbys, I don't think its to far off the height his is. The angles make it look different, but if you look the standard height tyre is just tucked into the arch at the front on mine and on yours its well up there, I think it will work, even if it has to go a little higher
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
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Posts: 1,948
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Excuse my ignorance but is this a body on chassis or monocoque?
If it is a separate chassis would it not be easier to do a body drop?
Keep the full suspension travel whilst making it at the correct altitude...
Either way I really like where this is going.
P. 🎅🏻
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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It's a chassis mate, one that wouldn't look out of place on a tank!
Not sure how easy a body drop would be to be honest.
The suspension is a comical height as standard, that i do know
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Dec 22, 2016 11:59:09 GMT
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Excuse my ignorance but is this a body on chassis or monocoque? If it is a separate chassis would it not be easier to do a body drop? Keep the full suspension travel whilst making it at the correct altitude... Either way I really like where this is going. P. 🎅🏻 Totally irrelevant to this thread but your old Chevy is on eBay...
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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1962 Rover 100 P4fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Dec 22, 2016 12:09:06 GMT
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From the image wheels stable (which will be pricey!) ... CHB - Available up to 20" (5 stud only though - not sure what rover p4 is) ... ![](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/83e31723e2a90adfbfc5bd74ab726fe7.png) GTDE - Available up to 18" (4 or 5 stud) ... ![](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/1ed7a6f0890035e0f1f5b0ffaa702a17.png) Billet 22 - Available up to 22" all fitments ... ![](http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161222/275e04d3e8d515ff4fbce640f8012070.jpg)
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,246
Club RR Member Number: 64
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1962 Rover 100 P4glenanderson
@glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member 64
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Dec 22, 2016 13:33:04 GMT
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Dropping the arches doesn't really get the sills closer to the ground unfortunately... *n No, that's very true! I also got tired of not being able to get in and out of the car, because when I parked next to the kerb I couldn't open the door! If you look at the side of the car, that chromed trim along the bottom of the body, where the sill would be on most "normal" cars? That's actually fitted to the wings and doors. If you can find a shot somewhere with the doors open, you'll see that the floor is already a good six inches above the bottoms of the doors. Lowering one of these really does mean some serious engineering and thought, as well as some proper compromises for day to day living. I decided I didn't want to chop my car about that much, someone else may decide otherwise. Forums are about sharing experience, pooling ideas and encouragement. I'm not trying to wee on anyone's chips, I'm just pointing out that lowering a P4 is pretty difficult!
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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Dec 22, 2016 13:52:39 GMT
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fr€$h&m1nt¥The GTD5 is exactly the wheel I wanted, I emailed them and they couldn't make it in the size and stud pattern I needed :/
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1962 Rover 100 P4fr€$h&m1nt¥
@freshandminty
Club Retro Rides Member 99
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Dec 22, 2016 14:26:46 GMT
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fr€$h&m1nt¥The GTD5 is exactly the wheel I wanted, I emailed them and they couldn't make it in the size and stud pattern I needed :/ That's a shame - that's the design I picked up on from your photoshop.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
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Posts: 1,948
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Dec 22, 2016 22:59:32 GMT
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Excuse my ignorance but is this a body on chassis or monocoque? If it is a separate chassis would it not be easier to do a body drop? Keep the full suspension travel whilst making it at the correct altitude... Either way I really like where this is going. P. 🎅🏻 Totally irrelevant to this thread but your old Chevy is on eBay... Knew it was up for sale but couldn't find it on eBay, got the link? Sorry for the interlude, we will now return you yo your regular program... P. 🎅🏻
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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Another tiny installment in my never ending saga of buying a 60's brit
Mojo was high after finally sorting all the fueling out and tuning the carb just lovely. She started on the button, ran super on the mixture control till warm, then idled superbly and revved crisply.
Good times. I can crack on now, replaced that crusty rear corner maybe? Had an hour last night though, so best do a little job, the interior lights, some of the gauges and the horns etc didn't work.
Simple wiring issue you'd think, most of it was all on the one fused circuit, the fuse was blown, EASY!
The majority of the wiring appears to be behind the dash console, best whip that out and start checking earths and the like. HORROR
Melty, burny, crispy meh! I'd say 40% of the loom is toast, the whole headlight circuit is a burnt up mess (weirdly the lights work)
I could start picking it apart and replace the bad bits.
I could purchase a new loom, lets have a look, £408!!! F that.
Looks like i'm making a new loom, modern materials, lots of fuses, lots of relays, lots of time :/
She will be low, I promise, but not just yet...
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Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,878
Club RR Member Number: 15
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1962 Rover 100 P4Frankenhealey
@frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member 15
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Jan 10, 2017 10:17:39 GMT
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To reduce the time element and halve the Rover price take a gander at EZ or Painless Wiring's looms. The loom for the Goddess was 20 circuits and and about £200 IIRC from the States. Every wire is printed end to end with the circuit name. ![](http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t401/Ozfather/Img_3566_zpsf9pffehj.jpg)
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here
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psycho83
East of England
Rhythm and Booze
Posts: 777
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Jan 10, 2017 10:33:13 GMT
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ah man, thats bad news. Good luck getting it sorted. I have a workshop manual with wiring diagrams on disk somewhere if you'd like a copy (if I can find it)
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Bigging Up The Sum Sum Man Since '99
Posts: 2,662
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Jan 10, 2017 11:11:48 GMT
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I've got the manual on paper chap, cheers though.
Means I can rip out the Dynamo and Positive earth and the control boxes and add fuses etc, so it's all good really...
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,293
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Jan 10, 2017 12:37:44 GMT
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How about US Mags U111 Rambler? They are cheap too. Available in your PCD 5x127, and in 18x8, 18x9.5, 20x8 and 20x9.5 ![](http://images.us-mags.com/images/wheels/large/US%20MAGS_Rambler_18x9.5_U111-500.png) ![](http://images.us-mags.com/images/wheels/large/US-MAGS_Rambler_18x8_Anthracite-text-Center-w-Diamond-cut-lip_Face_500.png)
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2017 12:45:52 GMT by VIP
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