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I am a Mechanic, I sell oil in my shop I don't need a lecture on viscosity, I'm just gathering opinions.
A friend of mine has a 2009 Hyundai coupe 2.0 petrol, he ran it out of oil. I topped him up (3 litres!). Now the engine is sounding a little rough no definite top end or bottom end noise, just a bit rough. we may have caught it just in time.
He's coming to the garage on Saturday for an oil and filter, my question is do I use the recommended 5W30 fully synthetic, or would a 10W40 help it generate oil pressure.
I'm lilting towards the 5W30 not because of its longevity but being thinner it will be easier to move around the engine and generate oil pressure with.
But obvs 10W40 is thicker and could help the car survive longer. Longevity of the oil is not an issue, I am reccomending he gets it serviced 2 times a year now anyways.
Thoughts? Feelings?
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 986
Club RR Member Number: 13
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The reduced amount of oil has probably lead to it over heating and breaking down, reducing its ability to slow down the wear on any component generating friction. No oil will reliable increase oil pressure in those circumstances. Unless you fancy throwing in a load of EP90... It's engine rebuild time.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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I remember a mate seizing his Austin 1300 engine. I removed the plugs, filled it with oil and we pushed it round the yard bouncing the clutch until whatever had seized let go. It ran quite well afterwards, despite consuming a gallon of oil for every tank of fuel. You could see him coming from miles away.
I don't know the Hyundai engines - do they have the same oil feed issues as some Fords? In which case you'd be better sticking to the 5W30. Otherwise I think I'd go with the 10W40 in an engine which may have some internal wear.
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I remember a mate seizing his Austin 1300 engine. I removed the plugs, filled it with oil and we pushed it round the yard bouncing the clutch until whatever had seized let go. It ran quite well afterwards, despite consuming a gallon of oil for every tank of fuel. You could see him coming from miles away. I don't know the Hyundai engines - do they have the same oil feed issues as some Fords? In which case you'd be better sticking to the 5W30. Otherwise I think I'd go with the 10W40 in an engine which may have some internal wear. Yes, I have seen a few older Coupe's with a lovely top end rattle. 5W30 it is. Thanks.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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As a mechanic I assume you have done a compression and oil pressure check (with diagnostic gauge) to confirm engine still healthy. To be honest I'd say just bung in oil intended for older cars, rather than modern synthetic, and change after 3000 miles. Something like 20W50 then see if that makes a difference. If so then it's probably an indication engine has some damage / wear and a strip down is needed. Oil just acts as a wear reducer for moving parts. Older technology oil will work perfectly OK in a modern engine for shorter oil change periods. Modern oil keeps contaminated in suspension better and has additional ingredients to reduce wear but "at the end of the day" does exactly the same thing as the older oil - just better
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Oct 28, 2016 11:10:58 GMT
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As a mechanic I assume you have done a compression and oil pressure check (with diagnostic gauge) to confirm engine still healthy. To be honest I'd say just bung in oil intended for older cars, rather than modern synthetic, and change after 3000 miles. Something like 20W50 then see if that makes a difference. If so then it's probably an indication engine has some damage / wear and a strip down is needed. Oil just acts as a wear reducer for moving parts. Older technology oil will work perfectly OK in a modern engine for shorter oil change periods. Modern oil keeps contaminated in suspension better and has additional ingredients to reduce wear but "at the end of the day" does exactly the same thing as the older oil - just better I have done nothing at all at the moment, he called me at 8 in the evening to tell me the oil pressure light had been flickering for a couple of days. -.- So, I went round and topped him up. My concern about 20W50 and even 10W40 is that its gonna be more difficult to pump round the engine being thicker and I have seen these motors starve the top end.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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ChasR
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Oct 28, 2016 11:31:27 GMT
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I'd be tempted to change it and put it in the right stuff.
Even on a car with 260k I've had no ill effects from putting in the right stuff. If anything people have been surprised.
If the big ends are gone there is not going to be much you can do TBH, thicker oil or not short of using Slick 50.
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Last Edit: Oct 28, 2016 11:31:46 GMT by ChasR
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Oct 28, 2016 11:36:59 GMT
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He called me at 8 in the evening to tell me the oil pressure light had been flickering for a couple of days. -.- So, I went round and topped him up. Hope you gave him a lecture about vehicle abuse and you really should report him to RSPCC (Royal Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Cars)
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Oct 28, 2016 11:49:34 GMT
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He called me at 8 in the evening to tell me the oil pressure light had been flickering for a couple of days. -.- So, I went round and topped him up. Hope you gave him a lecture about vehicle abuse and you really should report him to RSPCC (Royal Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Cars) He's a man for whom the train was invented. He wants a toyota GT86 next which is going to be entirely wasted upon him. I made a point that he must bring his car to me every fortnight from now on to check the liquids that are meant to be in the engine are still mostly in the engine.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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barty
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Oct 28, 2016 12:04:20 GMT
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have you found out why the loss of oil? I don't know if hes had the car from new, but assuming it has had regular servicing for the first 5 years thats only 2 years of being un-serviced.
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ChasR
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Oct 28, 2016 12:29:20 GMT
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have you found out why the loss of oil? I don't know if hes had the car from new, but assuming it has had regular servicing for the first 5 years thats only 2 years of being un-serviced. Some engines are intolerant to this. The BMW M52, Ford CVH and VW 1.9 PD engines are good examples of this. My BMW 323i started using oil I suspect due to a blocked breather, which cold journeys can affect .
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Last Edit: Oct 28, 2016 12:30:14 GMT by ChasR
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Oct 28, 2016 12:53:03 GMT
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He has had it since it was 2 years old, serviced by Hyundai main dealer (I imagine badly).
No clue where the oil has gone, its thrown the check engine light so I'm surmising it may have curse word off into the exhaust and clogged a lambda probe.
But I have only spent 5 mins with the car he's gone to Bradford in it today so if he doesn't make it home, I won't have to bother with it on Saturday afternoon and I can go to the pub.
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Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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mk2cossie
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Oct 28, 2016 13:16:01 GMT
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Personally, I would stick to the 5w30 stated it should use. Also fully synthetic I presume? If you can, change the oil when it's nice and hot as well, I've found it drains out quicker and takes more curse word out with it from in the engine as well
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Oct 28, 2016 19:39:50 GMT
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fill it with the proper spec oil and if it rattles and bangs it done for
if the bearings have taken damage from running it with no oil then theres no miricle cure , might as well be up front with him and remind him running a car with no oil is bad news
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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ChasR
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Hang on, you said the car's not rattling, but sounding rough? Is it misfiring or does it give out some noise?
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surley as a garage owner the last thing you want to do is a band aid fix ? people will instantly tell everyone it shat itself since xyz garage serviced it
if he wants to try a bottle of wynns then let him do it , don't get involved
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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Oct 29, 2016 10:37:27 GMT
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As others have said start with the correct oil, Perhaps also worth checking the breather system( there will be some sort of pcv valve), would account for the rough running and oil loss and possibly the check lamp .
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An oil flush (yeah controversial) and a genuine filter and oil 5w30 fully synthetic, the car now runs quieter and doesn't sound as harsh. This is probably just in my head. But oil pressure is good, and the engine management light went out and being a Hyundai Kia my old snap on machine can't see old codes, just current ones.
I think we got to it just in time.
For those of you talking about band aids and my reputation, I have know this guy for 20 years and go to the local with him every week. I fully versed him in the situation, and explained that if we haven't caught this early enough you may require serious work. But luckily I think we caught it on the cusp of doing some engine damage.
He's now coming in monthly for our 'hey where'd my fluids go?' special
I also pulled the rocker cover an there was a bit of oil gunge but no build up atop the lifters or anything.
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Last Edit: Nov 1, 2016 12:11:11 GMT by stonyray
Nissan Laurel SOLD BMW E34 Diesel SOLD Toyota Soarer 4.0 V8 SOLD Audi A4 1995 TDI SOLD Peugeot 205 1.9 TD SOLD Lexus IS300 SC
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Good news. Nowt wrong with bunging an oil flush through in my book especially if the old oil had had opportunity to breakdown though getting too hot.
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