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May 28, 2018 21:22:42 GMT
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Engine mounts done, bit of a faff with a few bits of skin missing but not as bad as I imagine it could be it you got stuck on a bolt as they are hard work to get to -  Had to take the carbs off again for access, all back together now, new alternator and belt on, just the rad now on the mechanical side and it's then bodywork here on in -  Although still a few bits and bobs in the engine bay to do like new fuse box for the electric fan & other bits, put the washer bag back in (or replace for bottle), sort & tidy final wiring loom, still closer now than the start of the year. |
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May 29, 2018 21:21:55 GMT
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Radiator turned up surprisingly early, so time to bolt it on and fit the Kenlowe fan -  New fuse box to feed this and other future bits, easy bit done in so far mounted on a metal plate, hard bit to do which will be run the cable along the underneath of the car to the battery -    Fan fine adjuster with sender in top of radiator -  Everything is always wet as I am forever giving it a quick power wash to get rid of swarf from drilling |
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Well that's the engine bay done, ditched the washer bag in favour of bottle and external pump, it's about as tidy as it can be for now -  Took the doors off and mounted all the parts on frames for prep and spray but will do the front of the car first -  |
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Jun 15, 2018 16:52:34 GMT
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Whilst I was rubbing the front end down I realised I was missing a bit of strength and the front valance was not forward enough at the bottom. In my haste to get the kit on I only had two bolts at the bottom of each wing so extended this to 5 per side  Also made a bracket off the fog light holder / tow hook holder to push the front valance out and firm it up -  It gives the valance a far rounded forward position, which in turn along with the extra bolts firms the wings up  |
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Jun 17, 2018 18:52:07 GMT
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Nothing beats masking a car out for paint to see all the little bits of fine filling or sanding that you've missed, went back over a few areas but oh well time to get some primer on   |
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carltonx
Part of things
yardie in brum
Posts: 645
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Jun 17, 2018 19:44:30 GMT
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What wheels are you going to put on
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Jun 17, 2018 21:08:20 GMT
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What wheels are you going to put on I was looking at the MG SET OF FOUR 7 X 15 MGB ALLOY WHEELS on ebay with some wide tyres, I want it to look in keeping but at least have rubber that fills the arches, this style -  |
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Jun 18, 2018 17:03:35 GMT
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Green bonnet -  Yellow front valance  Wings, front scuttle & a pillars in primer, had to do the windscreen surround again as it got a few chips from me putting the windscreen in and taking back out -  |
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carltonx
Part of things
yardie in brum
Posts: 645
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Jun 20, 2018 21:20:23 GMT
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I think you might need spacers as 7" May get lost in your arches,
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Maximum signature image height: 80 pixels.
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Jun 20, 2018 21:27:01 GMT
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I think you might need spacers as 7" May get lost in your arches, Wheels are not my strong point, I will be doing some research and measuring before I order any as they do need to fill the arches, but an off the shelf solution would be nice as it would be most likely cheaper. |
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Jun 21, 2018 12:12:50 GMT
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You need 15x8 all round, shouldn't need spacers...
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Jun 21, 2018 15:20:10 GMT
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Jun 21, 2018 18:00:00 GMT
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Bonnet back on, will leave all the paint for a week now to fully set, then 2000's and t-cut. -  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1973/74 MGB Sebring FINISHED ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Jun 21, 2018 18:24:52 GMT
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I think you might need spacers as 7" May get lost in your arches, Wheels are not my strong point, I will be doing some research and measuring before I order any as they do need to fill the arches, but an off the shelf solution would be nice as it would be most likely cheaper. You need 15x8 all round, shouldn't need spacers... I hate to say it but they're right  . Here's mine on 15" x 8J on ET0, shod with 225/50R15s. Being Minilites they were a light wheel for what they were! At £540 back in 2006, they were not what you'd call a bargain mind you! But they were a pivotal piece in making the mods work  . forum.retro-rides.org/thread/35563/1979-sebring-blues-more-goodies?page=5   It's funny, I sold it as I could not justify a paintjob on the car, despite putting all of the work over the years. It seems crazy now, doesn't it? But it's fair to say it went to the right place And then this. Same wheels but with a polished lip and 215/60R15s   |
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Last Edit: Jun 21, 2018 18:28:05 GMT by ChasR
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Jun 22, 2018 14:31:10 GMT
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A bit of sunbathing to dry out -  |
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Jun 22, 2018 15:20:44 GMT
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Good progress!
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,004
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1973/74 MGB Sebring FINISHED adam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Jun 22, 2018 18:08:31 GMT
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It's looking good! I hope you manage to get some wheels that suit it well, the arch gap on the front is something thats always bothered me about the Sebring kits, something I'll need to rectify at some point on mine if I ever get to that point!
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Jun 22, 2018 21:26:46 GMT
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It's looking good! I hope you manage to get some wheels that suit it well, the arch gap on the front is something thats always bothered me about the Sebring kits, something I'll need to rectify at some point on mine if I ever get to that point! Thanks for the comment, I will probably go for the wheels recommended in the thread, trouble is as the front is done aside of final finish I am to busy ordering stickers and the like off ebay when I should be focused on the rear end. I am cracking on now though as I can see the end at last. Good luck with yours. |
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xcore
Part of things
Posts: 123
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Lovely that! What set up are you using to spray it?
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Lovely that! What set up are you using to spray it? My dad gave me a compressor that he somehow got for free (I think he did a job for someone and they no longer used it, he already had one so I became the lucky recipient). I think the gun was from machine mart (Clarke?). With it only being cellulose I am of the opinion if you can get it on without much run or reaction once it dries it is workable to get a good finish. I am currently preparing the surface with 400 before primer and going for as thick as a mix that is sprayable 70% cellulose 30% thinners for both primer and paint, for the final coat of paint I reverse this to 30% paint 70% thinners so that it flattens the coats. This way the primer coats are least likely to react as the paint is not heavy enough with thinners to soak through the existing paint (if applicable). I also use "fish eye eliminator" for all paint to avoid paint pooling around embedded silicon or oil in a panel. Lastly, I always rub down each surface with panel wipe on a lint-free cloth before painting to avoid any reaction from airborne contaminants. Oh and I have a measuring jug and paint stirrers to ensure the above is right, I have previously spent years messing with cars and paint with a more carefree guessing approach that only cost me time. Would appreciate any comment if anyone has a better approach or tips, thanks for the comment and interest. The 2HP beast  -  |
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