carltonx
Part of things
yardie in brum
Posts: 645
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After some driving before I parked it up I have a few identified leaks, rear diff at the prop shaft, clutch flexi, overdrive cover (despite new gasket). I've managed to get the old clutch flexi off tonight, & drained the gearbox oil so I could remove the overdrive cover. Also the fuel leak off the carbs due to o rings to attend to, hopefully, I will get it all back together soon so I can be out driving it again, I also only realised the other day that I don't have any antifreeze in the system so that's another job. I previously installed a new overdrive gasket without any gasket seal as advised and in risk of overtightening the bolts I have had to remove it (due to oil leak), I'm not sure the next one will be installed without some gasket seal. I changed the gasket on my overdrive without sealant and mine also leaks 😳 |
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I'm so sorry i missed this thread. Sounds like a great build but no pictures to go with it. Looks like a good job with the kit from the final pics though.
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After some driving before I parked it up I have a few identified leaks, rear diff at the prop shaft, clutch flexi, overdrive cover (despite new gasket). I've managed to get the old clutch flexi off tonight, & drained the gearbox oil so I could remove the overdrive cover. Also the fuel leak off the carbs due to o rings to attend to, hopefully, I will get it all back together soon so I can be out driving it again, I also only realised the other day that I don't have any antifreeze in the system so that's another job. I previously installed a new overdrive gasket without any gasket seal as advised and in risk of overtightening the bolts I have had to remove it (due to oil leak), I'm not sure the next one will be installed without some gasket seal. I changed the gasket on my overdrive without sealant and mine also leaks 😳 I've got to be honest I'm not buying the idea of the standard gasket without some form of gasket seal, it's a pain in the  to drain and refill so I am going for gasket seal next. I still have you book marked but no update yet? |
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I'm so sorry i missed this thread. Sounds like a great build but no pictures to go with it. Looks like a good job with the kit from the final pics though. Thanks it was 3 years in the build, mainly due to having a load of other projects in the same time. Unfortunately during that time Tiny Pics gave up and Photobucket started charging. I have all the pics offline and have thought about doing a YouTube picture build just to share, I swore I would never do a fibreglass build again after it and then bought a Reliant Kitten to fill the project space, doh. |
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Shame the pics dropped off as I love the look and result   |
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Yeah fibreglass is notoriously hard to work with but really versatile if you know how to manipulate it and work with it.
Id love a scimitar gte to build with modern engine but got my merc 190 turbo build to do first and the dreaded wedding and following life, kids house stuff coming up next year so projects fall by the wayside hahah.
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it looks fantastic, well done!
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Dec 24, 2019 19:27:51 GMT
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Replaced the sump gasket, quite a time-consuming job that went, drain oil, try and get the circa 18 bolts out the sump, realise the front ones are impossibly difficult due to the front cross member.. put the car on axle stands, remove front wheels, unbolt the steering rack, anti-roll bar and leave hanging, drop the front cross member 1" onto axle stands (so the brake lines can stay on). Remove all bolts and sump, clean, clean and clean everything. New gasket and gasket seal, reinstall sump bolting up all round. Then have to remove the front springs to bolt the front cross member back on, reinstall springs, steering rack, wheels. Simple, no hassle at all.
Rear diff pinion seal, drain diff, mark and unbolt prop shaft, tie up out of the way, realise I don't have a 1"1/8 socket. Wait one day while amazon prime does its job. Unbolt the tightest nut in the world (diff locked in place), eventually, succumb to jacking up the breaker bar to get the nut moving. Lever the seal out (almost break a finger when it finally gives with no warning). Clean the rust that appears to have broken the seal with 400's, once squeaky clean and flat reinstall seal, prop and refill with oil.
Clutch Flexi leak. Decided to replace everything as the clutch is hard and does not release quickly enough on a gear change, so this will be the final job before deciding I have a mechanical clutch issue rather than a hydraulic issue. Removed all, slave, master cylinder, copper pipe & flexi. Installed new master & copper pipe, then noticed the bracket for the copper to flexi is horizontally mounted under the car, this means that it is inaccessible from the engine bay and almost impossible to tighten the joint under the car as the starter blocks it, cut it off and welded it back on vertically. Can now tighten the flexi to copper with ease under the car, installed new slave then flexi, filled and bled. Thought I had a bleed issue until I started the car to test the clutch as it is now so light, I must have had a blockage somewhere.
Overdrive leak, dropped the oil out of the gearbox, dropped the overdrive cover off and removed the now knackered seal, cleaned all surfaces and ignored all recommendations by using gasket seal on the new gasket. Bolted back up, left then refilled oil via the dipstick tube behind the centre console.
Antifreeze done, the easiest job of the lot as my rad has a drain on the bottom, easy.
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Dec 24, 2019 19:36:26 GMT
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Carbs also now done and fuel tight, both o rings in the bowls had gone, the age of them and cold weather had caused them both to let fuel through, replaced and refitted, I now notice that the fuel pump clicks a lot less before starting.
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