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Jul 26, 2016 21:40:14 GMT
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Hi all, I've already been answered on the Applying waxoyl question (thanks). So: - How to remove a bolt if a socket doesn't fit because the space is tight? (I'm assuming it means getting - at least in my case - an AF spanner set? )
- How to remove a rusted & rounded screw? (just some tips would be nice please)
- As a kinda related topic, it just happens that the screw I can't get out is positioned at a funny angle, and if I drew a line perpendicular to the screw, it would meet the radiator grill of my car ... so I have to keep the screwdriver at a slight angle. Any recommendations on how to not damage the screw any further?
- And for good measure, how to remove a rusted and rounded bolt? (I'm sure I'll come across that) EDIT: I've actually found one that holds the rear bumper that is both rusted and rounded, but will have ZILCH room for a socket. What then!? Cut it out with an angle grinder?
Thanks for reading, and also I hope you understand that we all have to start somewhere. |
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Jul 26, 2016 22:39:57 GMT
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You don't mention what car it is,but if it's not metric the chances are it will be A/F.Personally i always use single hex 6 sided sockets rather than bi-hex,better grip and less chance of rounding a bolt head that way.
Rusted and rounded out screw heads are usually not too bad to deal with.I tend cut a new slot with a dremel and a little cutting wheel so i can use a big flat blade driver on them.Failing that you can drill them out or buy a proprietry damaged screw extractor.If the screw is that far gone you are better replacing it anyway,preferably with a stainless steel one.If a screw is a bit awkward to get at then you can remove whats in the way or use a stubby driver or even one with a flexi shaft.
Rusted and rounded bolts,i use a six side socket and where a bi-will slip a six sided one will often remove them.Option two is to hammer on a socket thats slightly too small or buy something like an irwin bolt extractor.
Don't forget to really soak the offending screw or bolt with a penetrating oil something like Plus Gas or Duck Oil.WD40 is better than nothing but it's not the best as a penetrating fluid.
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Jul 27, 2016 10:43:15 GMT
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Trust me - the majority of my car is A/F. I always use the 6 sided sockets if they fit my bolts, but I don't have the luxury for going out to buy some more right now - sorry!
I'll head out to screwfix to get some extractors and bolt removers (both'll come in handy I'm sure).
Many of the options I'd love to do but the place I'm thinking of that is causing grief is my rear bumper. The space is tiny! (How did they build it!?) And the nut looks slightly rounded. So it's a bit grim really. Luckily, there is a other nut on the other side of the bolt (inside the boot) so potentially cutting off on one side might just be okay? I'd rather figure out a way of doing it otherwise though.
EDIT: I've heard about using a chisel and hammer is the going gets tough? How viable is that on a weak-ish area? (I can't imagine the metal that holds the bumper to be amazingly strong, especically if rusty)
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Jul 27, 2016 11:02:04 GMT
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Jul 27, 2016 11:57:28 GMT
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Ahh yeah ... some of that definitely will come in useful. I do have a heatgun here at home, so that'll do as my source of heat. But for my current issue, I can't get a socket onto the bolt to access it. How bad is it to use one of those adjustable wrenches, or mole grips or something?
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Jul 27, 2016 16:30:55 GMT
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Ahh yeah ... some of that definitely will come in useful. I do have a heatgun here at home, so that'll do as my source of heat. But for my current issue, I can't get a socket onto the bolt to access it. How bad is it to use one of those adjustable wrenches, or mole grips or something? [/quote Better if you can get a ring spanner on it or a socket with a universal joint if there is room? Adjustables tend to slip as the jaws spread a bit under load unless it's a top quality one like a Bahco.Mole grips will chew the head a bit and probably slip. Stiltson will shift it but will make a mess of the head. |
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Jul 27, 2016 21:37:55 GMT
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I would agree with highvoltage. I'm no expert, but on my car today, I couldn't use the socket so I used the adjustable wrench. It was a total pain in the backside, and kept scraping and sliding over the bolt. In the end, I settled with a metric spanner that just about fit, and that has done, or feels to have done, less damage.
Stay away from them. They're overrated for automotive concerns. They're merely limited to household tasks which don't require the ... "finesse" that cars do.
I too, am wondering what to do if I encounter a AF nut with no space for socket. I was lucky that the nut just about fitted a metric spanner but next time I won't be so lucky.
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I have a Jaguar XJS - RARRGHH! She is called Lily, and she is my best friend! goo.gl/bT3ASP <-- video of her  |
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Jul 27, 2016 21:44:40 GMT
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A thanks to everyone who replied.
Sounds like adjustable spanner is totally last resort. I do have ANOTHER RELATED QUESTION which is:
I have a bolt which I can turn, without much issue really. But for whatever reason, no matter how much I turn it on the ratchet, the bolt does not move up and down - just around and around. It's really annoying me. It's literally the last bolt and then my bumper can come off.
I'll try to upload a picture soon
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Jul 27, 2016 22:47:59 GMT
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Hi, the thread has stripped on the bolt within the nut, you need to apply pressure to move it out whilst turning the bolt, by levering under the bolt head with a screwdriver.
Colin
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Jul 27, 2016 23:35:33 GMT
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Hmm I'll see what I can do! Thanks Colin.
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Jul 28, 2016 23:28:57 GMT
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New question: How do I disconnect this cable? For reference, my car is a 90s Jaguar. It seems something so simple, but I'm very worried about breaking something. 
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,341 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Push release tab as pictured to screen left. Pull apart connector whist holding down release tab.
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iain42
Part of things
Posts: 107
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Jul 30, 2016 15:20:29 GMT
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Trust me - the majority of my car is A/F. I always use the 6 sided sockets if they fit my bolts, but I don't have the luxury for going out to buy some more right now - sorry! I'll head out to screwfix to get some extractors and bolt removers (both'll come in handy I'm sure). Many of the options I'd love to do but the place I'm thinking of that is causing grief is my rear bumper. The space is tiny! (How did they build it!?) And the nut looks slightly rounded. So it's a bit grim really. Luckily, there is a other nut on the other side of the bolt (inside the boot) so potentially cutting off on one side might just be okay? I'd rather figure out a way of doing it otherwise though. EDIT: I've heard about using a chisel and hammer is the going gets tough? How viable is that on a weak-ish area? (I can't imagine the metal that holds the bumper to be amazingly strong, especically if rusty) splitting the nut is an option, but it has to be solid to do it with a chisel, if not buy yourself a nut splitter, always handy to have as a last resort www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Broken-Damaged-Corroded-Stuck-Nut-Removing-Tool-Remover-Splitter-Splitting-Set-/261553095157?hash=item3ce5c781f5:g:3scAAOSwgQ9VvHS8 |
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sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
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Jul 30, 2016 18:55:18 GMT
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If you know that you're working on a car with imperial fasteners invest in good imperial sockets and spanners. A little outlay now will save you a whole load of trouble later when working on the car.
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Nut splitter in the shopping cart, and I'm looking for some cheap AF spanners right now.
I think my main issue with this bumper is that the "Strut" that holds the bumper onto the car has rusted away so it's useless, but also just spinning round and around .... so yeah ... useless. I'll probably find a way to get a helper to hold the the strut with some mole grips or something or failing that just wait until I get an angle grinder and cut the bolt off.
NEW QUESTION
When people say "soak bolt in x penetrating oil" ... how? Because the moment I spray it on, 10% of the spray seems to land where I want it, and 10% of that then may penetrate as opposed to just drip off.
Any ideas?
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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Aug 17, 2016 16:10:56 GMT
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PLUS GAS is Amazing!
Highly recommended to anyone who doesn't yet have it.
I still wonder though how one is supposed to soak a nut or bolt in [any] lubricating oil? Make a mould and then fill it up?
And how viable is drilling out a rounded nut in a weakened area? Does anyone recommend gluing on a new nut and then using that as the basis for turning the old rounded one?
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I'm asking the questions some are too embarrassed to ask. Someone has to!
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