richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Hi all
I have an axle fitted to my P100 that I am trying to identify It was fitted before I bought the truck. I have been told it is from a 2.8 Capri and is lsd. I have looked for stamping or casting marks but can't find any. I need to fit some bearings and seals but have no idea what to order. Any help much appreciated. Thanks in advance
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2016 8:41:29 GMT by richr
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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LSD check is easy, jack the wheels off the floor and turn one, the other wheel should turn in the same direction with an LSD and as avbove if there's no casting number we need a pic our crystal balls seem to have steamed up
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R.I.P photobucket
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Thanks for the replies ill sort some pics tomorrow I'm disappointed with your crystal balls, were they the cheap Chinese ones of eBay
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2016 20:57:49 GMT by richr
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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hope these pics will help
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Just measured the axle and it is 52" from back plate to back plate
I tried the trick of lifting the wheels off the ground and turning one wheel and the other turned in the same direction. So it looks like it has LSD
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drdick
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Posts: 359
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Atlas axle probably from a capri as you were told
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richr
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Posts: 119
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drdick
Thanks for that
Do you know if the seals and bearings are standard through the atlas range
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Jul 13, 2016 22:31:37 GMT
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If you take the bearings out there should be numbers on them.
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drdick
Part of things
Posts: 359
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drdick Thanks for that Do you know if the seals and bearings are standard through the atlas range Sorry, missed this. Sadly I think there are a couple of sizes but not 100% on that. I guess measuring would be best but that potentially leaves your car up on axle stands for a bit. You might be able to ask at a motor factor if there is a difference between capri and cortina say?
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barty
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Posts: 1,088
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Jul 14, 2016 11:41:43 GMT
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cortina didnt have a LSD so the betting is on the 2.8 capri
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Jul 14, 2016 12:32:31 GMT
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That definately look like a Capri axle
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Last Edit: Jul 14, 2016 12:37:42 GMT by fordperv
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Jul 14, 2016 15:16:55 GMT
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Capri, dffinatly, correct width (cortina Mk3/4/5 is wider) no ears on top of the diff (cortina had ears cast into the diff casing to attach the top arms to). As to the bearings, been caught out a few times ordering bearing for an atlas as said check the numbers on the ones in there them order, i use this lot for bearings www.bearingkits.co.uk/FORD-AXLE-and-DIFF-PARTS/FORD-ATLAS-AXLE-PARTS/C2-5-1-0.htmOne word of advice by all meens change the wheel bearing but don't mess with the diff, not even the pinion bearing seal, anything to do with the diff takes setting up "properly" IE dial gauge and engineers blue to set preload and backlash, mess with it and you will shorten the life of the diff (cue loads of peeps who've been there done it and never had a problem) BUT IME a few months down the line (usually after the "builder" has sold the vehical) there will be issues. If you want to know how to set the diff up (it's not really that hard but needs doing properly) check out eric the car guy on you tube to see what it takes to make the diff last.
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R.I.P photobucket
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Jul 26, 2016 21:09:12 GMT
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Capri, dffinatly, correct width (cortina Mk3/4/5 is wider) no ears on top of the diff (cortina had ears cast into the diff casing to attach the top arms to). As to the bearings, been caught out a few times ordering bearing for an atlas as said check the numbers on the ones in there them order, i use this lot for bearings www.bearingkits.co.uk/FORD-AXLE-and-DIFF-PARTS/FORD-ATLAS-AXLE-PARTS/C2-5-1-0.htmOne word of advice by all meens change the wheel bearing but don't mess with the diff, not even the pinion bearing seal, anything to do with the diff takes setting up "properly" IE dial gauge and engineers blue to set preload and backlash, mess with it and you will shorten the life of the diff (cue loads of peeps who've been there done it and never had a problem) BUT IME a few months down the line (usually after the "builder" has sold the vehical) there will be issues. If you want to know how to set the diff up (it's not really that hard but needs doing properly) check out eric the car guy on you tube to see what it takes to make the diff last.
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Jul 26, 2016 21:10:50 GMT
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A picture of the end of the half shaft Where the screwdriver is it looks like some kind of seal but its very thin and not sealing. All the bearing kits I've seen seem to have taper bearings but this one is square. The size is OD 67mm ID 30mm and 25mm wide Half shaft number is 81EG4235BA. Is there some where I can check what seals may be fitted etc I have done searches for exploded views but nothing came back clear enough to see. Thanks in advance Rich
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2016 21:22:16 GMT by richr
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Jul 26, 2016 21:12:05 GMT
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Hi all Thanks for the replies its been a good few days since i checked the thread. So I pulled the one half shaft out to look at the bearing number. Guess what the numbers are on the hub side grrrrr. In fairness the side I pulled the bearing didn't feel overly bad. A slight worry well big worry was the fact I'm losing some oil from the end of the axle where the half shaft bolts onto the axle tube. It looks like there is some kind of seal between the bearing and the plate that bolts onto the tube. Hopefully I have posted a Picture from my phone. Yep see above post
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2016 21:23:47 GMT by richr
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The seal should be on the bearing where it sits in the axle tube, not all aftermarket bearings have this, pull the halfshaft, clean it where the bearing sits in the axle and give it a smear of hylomar or similar, just check while the halfshaft is out that that the bearing hasn't been fitted the wrong way around
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richr
Part of things
Posts: 119
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Jul 27, 2016 16:46:12 GMT
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Hi fordperv
Thanks for the reply
I think the bearings have been fitted the wrong way round as it looks like a bit of a seal sitting on the hub side.
Do you know if the bearing sits against a shoulder when you fit them as I think ill just buy new bearings and fit. I was reading on the link web site in the reply above that cheap bearings leak oil from the end plates where they bolt onto the tubes.
I'm toying with the idea of having the complete axle rebuilt by a firm or even doing it myself
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Jul 27, 2016 21:23:06 GMT
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It's a few years since I replaced mine, iirc there is a shoulder the bearing sits against on the shaft then a retaining ring goes on after, you can change the wheel bearings one of 2 ways, you can cut the old bearings off slicing almost through with a 1mm cutting disk then knock it off, for refitting make a sturdy plate with a hole in the middle for the halfshaft to pass through, put it on top of the bearing then slide a scaffold pipe over the halfshaft against the face of the plate and hit the end driving the bearing on and repeating it with theretaining ring, or there's the easiest way take the halfshaft and new bearings to someone who has a press ask them nicely to do it and give them some cash for beer, i did it the first way as it was a Sunday afternoon This is what I knocked up to drive the bearing on with
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Last Edit: Jul 27, 2016 21:28:11 GMT by fordperv
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richr
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Posts: 119
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Jul 27, 2016 21:56:16 GMT
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fordperv
Thanks for the above post
A mate said he can use a press at work so might not have to use the scaff tube but I have one in the garage in case lol.
I might see if I can find another guide to rebuilding the diff as I do like to do things myself. I'm old school as well brought up with cars in the late seventies when you couldn't afford to pay to get them fixed so learnt quickly. Just never done a diff.
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