Audi gearbox and Volvo rear axle gives you a lot of speed and gears going backwards...
Outgoing flange on the box is on the secondary axle and spins the opposite direction as with 'normal' rwd gearbox.
Friend had the same problem... Quite a surprise hé had at the first test drive.
EXACTLY!
Your post was so releasing to me. Once I thought I must be the only one so...blind!? Actually that was the "unpleasant surprise" that had yet to come. When you start a build like this, you're trying to not miss the smallest possible things. Sometimes even using magnifier to look closely. During this concentration though, you could do huge oversight and miss the big elephant standing nex to you!
To the previous posters: thanks again guys! Yes, I don't like either the heavy and crude engine mounts and front cross member disassembly flanges. I'll definitely drill, lighten, redesign ...etc them all when I remove the engine for the final works and painting. I guess I was overexcited during the first engine install inside the chassis, so I didn't want to waste time with a proper designing and more "thinking" on these parts.
There is more info on the steering gear and the column later in the thread.
So, I had the HUGE dilema how to proceed any further? The gearbox or the rear diff (i.e. rear axle or whole rear suspension) had to go. Since the only option for the rear diff was to use an Audi diff, which meant a change the whole rear end to independent suspension, I thought it was time to invite BMW to the project:
Meet the 2007 BMW 2.5-3.0d manual gearbox:
It wasn't an easy decision. I knew very well how much work, thinking and money I've invested so far in the Audi box, FW and the clutch set. I had to be brave though and put all these parts for sale to get funds for my new purchase. 5-6 months later everything was sold.
So, I had to think about a new adapter between the gearbox and the engine. I also decided to made completely new FW to suit the OEM diesel clutch set, so I started to draw and design.
The BMW input shaft was/is completely different thing:
I saw in the BMW forums, the chip-tuned 3.0d BMWs are reaching over 600Nm torque on the standard clutch, so bearing in mind my Lada is much lighter than the E60 BMW so I decided to go with the OEM clutch and later to see if I'm going to need something more "serious".
This is how should look my FW. This is actually single mass FW made for diesel 3.0d. I contacted guys in England for producing me the same FW but for the 10 hole VR6 crank and my dimensions. Due to the currency difference though (1:2.5) their offer was out of my budget though:
So, a friend started to CAD draw my initial sketches:
As you see, I decided to keep the center of the FW like the old Audi one. My idea is to have removable center part. The a bit older diesel and petrol bmw gearboxes have Audi-like input shaft bearing. So, if I have to change the gearbox later (due to some problem), I'll just have to remove the center piece(for the current box) and insert ball bearing for the other type of input shaft.
Here are the first steps in to the adapter work and design. I had to use the existing VR5 starter motor and the old FW gear ring :
...blending in the VR6's timing chain covers and the starter motor:
The FW drawing was sent to the mashine shop, but I was told it'll take time. I didn't want just to sit and wait, so I went further with the build. Ready for the second VR6 marriage:
In the meantime some parts had arrived:
Also the FW appeared but since the engine was inside the car, I decided to leave its install for later and also to send it to CNC mill for some additional work on the weight reducing.
Since I'm permanently on budget, sometimes I have to split the mechanical work between different shops depending on their eqipment, price level and ...wishing to work on a single detail orders. Locally, it's not so easy at all to do some custom mashining in single series/details.
This wont be the final FW look.
The work on the tunnel is going on. Decided to make removable cover from incide the car for easier thermostat and synch sensor access and service without engine removal:
again the wheels:
... my city looked from the nearby mountain:
The first steps of radiator installing. Thanks to "HEED-91" my good friends and local Mishimoto importers and famous tuning shop I chosed the biggest possible universal one from Mishimoto. The bigger size will definitely help me when boost comes in:
Yes, it's a bit tight, but not impossible without some radiator end tanks redesigning:
So, thanks folks for reading my thread. Will continue later with the updates.
Ivo
Yes, I though there could happen some damage but not because the unit is so low. It is actually higher than the rear axle, even when the axle is in touch with the limiting rubber stops. I'm more afraid from the stone chipping. The ties are so far 50/50% temporary solution. I wanted to mount the unit on its place so I could measure and order the fuel suply lines and hoses. I promise it'll be and look better.
But that doesen't bother me since I work on my car every weekend during the last 6 years or so and there is always some progress. Here is the last one. It is not so picture heavy as my previous posts. The work on my water tank continues. It is almost ready for welding. The level sensor is installed, as well as the attachment ring for the o-ringed hot air seal to the turbo inlet. The level sensor will "inform" the engine ecu that there is probably an IC system water leak so the ecu should cease the boost, i.e. kinda safety mode. The tank cap is still not ordered but it's #1 in the To Do list next week. So, please enjoy:
