1982 Lada 2105 (Riva) total change + ...a dead thread

I was hoping at least someone will bump my thread up in search for news about the old Lada but....it's again on me to pull the thread, sunk on page 10!?. Now, because of laziness, you'll have to read a looong post with more than 110 pictures :-o !
But let me stop with the BS jokes and start with the project progress.

The first picture - the otput rpm trigger disc is mouted:


A DIY bracket for the sensor:


New wiring for the sensor and the reverce gear lights:


Final setup:


Then started to work on the unfinished things of the water IC system. The return flow to the tank and the self bleeding line from the cooler and the radiator:



I thought I should copy the engine cooling radiator inlet and outlet ports layout so the upper fitting is the inlet (hot) and the lower is the outlet (cold)water for the cooler core:






Then I built some IC radiator shrouding. The purpose of this element is to seal the IC radiator to the engine cooling one but to keep some distance inbetween to avoid mutual heat exchange. This way also the rad fan will suck air through both cores and cool the water/coolant in both systems at the same time. I have programmed my ecu to switch the fan under high engine temperature condition, but also when the IC water or the inlet air temperature get high.


Here is the IC water temp sensor mounted on the inlet port of the IC core:



I just like to have a lot of data from the engine operation.
Back on the shrouding... I used 1mm thick alu sheet and 3M double sided tape to avoid another welding:








You could see also the bleeding connection next to the AN-16 weld bung:



The IC circulation pump is also connected to the system:





Let me stop with the water systems and get back a bit on the wiring. I had left unfinished the ignition switch wiring. First I had to replace the Opel Corsa C switch to a Corsa B one because of the older design more suitable to the Lada wiring:




Already adapted to the Lada wires:


I decided to have an engine start button rather than turn the key, but forgot the picture it.
Let's get back to the metal things. It was time to finish the front axle and suspension. I took some of the remaining unpainted parts for sand blasting and then powder coating:

BTW removed the rear springs and checked the upper most axle position and the contact with the rubber stops :


Had to cut a bit the diff stop to align all three rubber stops contact at the same level.



All my propshaft connections are via CV joints:


I hate to see rusty brake rotors so painted with VHT paint the bells :


The Corsa C steering rack prepared for install using VW rod ends:


Had to use outside services for changing the cone bore of spindle knuckle because of the VW rod ends:



Front crossmember back from the paint and assembled:



If you remember, I had to cut it because of the shape of the engine oil sump. So it became 3 parts assembly. The middle part is lowered 2cm and backed 4cm from its original position because of the oil sump and the steering rack. It is removable for easier oil sump, engine and gearbox removal:








There are two nuts on every bolt because the first one has higher strenght but no self locking:











The spring manufacturer from Russia. It appeared at the end though the fron spring are too weak for the current setup and both upper A arms contacted their rubber bump stops when the car was floored on its wheels. I had to put back the Niva front springs:








The rear end - Mumford linkage harware:




Why Mumford some may ask? ...I'm not so sure. It has some benefits. The car already has so many unusual things so one more or less... Also I like to complicate a bit the things so more brain work :-)



Finally the battery holding bracket is finished:




Some random pics from underneath:






The rear suspension layout with the axle released to its full down position, i.e. hanged on the rear shocks only:





Some brake line attaching points:



The axle in normal (loaded)position:





Finally reached the brake bleading:


A real dedication to the project - wheel valve alu caps with lada logo :-)



Wheels on:






The front end is low. The rear is a bit higher due to the new springs. Will have to do something to lower the rear and rise the front.


It is only about 10 cm to the ground:








About 20-21cm from the sill edge to the ground:


Almost full turn:







The sump is the lower part. I'll change that later when the engine is out and the chassis is sent for painting:










That's all for now. May be for this year as well. I'll have to go to bed. Thanks for watching!
Ivo

As usual you have a very long thread. My boss would probably appreciate if you split it in several shorter ones, so I would spend less time reading it :-)
This water cooled IC, how is it constructed? A separate radiator for the cooling fluid and a IC with water jackets? Impressive work!
This mumford setup looks nice and advanced, but what are really the advantages compared to other setups?
Your front subframe looks rock solid, although a bit heavy, should cope with the horsepower I guess!
I am not certain I approve of your aluminium wheel valve covers. they look smart, but aluminium tends to corrode when in contact with the valve. A guy on another forum had to remove the tire and change the complete valve because he had used aluminium covers. just a hint.
Keep up the good work! Really loving this thread so it would be great to have more and shorter updates.

Wow, great thread. Bookmarked!

Hi ElWoody,
Thanks for asking. The situation is ...just like London weather - rainy and foggy :-)  With other words - still jobless. There is a small hope though.  In the beginning of this month I was on two interviews at the local Mercedes truck center, but still no call back from them.  Just don't be fooled. Locally, MB doesn't mean necessarily good salary. We'll see...
All the best to you!

I try my best to assist. Your most welcome.
When I first wrote it i was thinking of a half thickness then the nylock but on reflection I think a half thickness nylock would be more suitable.

Well done fella all the time and effort will shortly be well worth it, you have built an absolutely amazing car you should be very proud of yourself.
When it's on the road take it round to that Mercedes dealership good luck with the job hunting
Dan

Amazing work on this car. I love it.

Hi all,
I thought it's time to post my first update fo this year.  Actually there wasn't anything special or remarkable progress in my project. I don't have much time lately so my project became again a "weekend" one . Enough with the stupid chats though. let me start with the pictures. I know, everyone likes project pictures  This update won't be so long as usual - just about 40 pics.



 First, let me start with my custom gauge pod. It is easier for me to use metal sheet than other materials:














Then I pulled out of the box my display and tried to connect it for the first time since the purchase ( about 2-3 years ago). For my great and unpleasant surprise it couldn't load its program and therefore the connection with my ECU was also impossible. Tried several hundred times all kind of resets but nothing could help. I felt very bad not only because of the ditched 330 Euro (this display was very rare one, sold only in NZ and AUS) but mostly because I had no more display to observe my engine parameters in a real time  



Anyway...had to think about a replacement display. Found a 33 GBP brand new   8" Windows 10 tablet on ebay.uk. Uploaded the Link software and... bingo! It worked out nicely:




I can use it also a a tuning device, but its real usage will be as a gauge display. Have just to make a suitable frame for mounting it on the dash.
Let me finish with the gauge pod. Here it is painted with wrinkle paint:







Some last works on the hand brake.




WTF?






My new gear stick boot:


The final position of the hood vents:



Then my first steps into the rollcage making and weight and price calculations:




Also bought a tube notcher:



In a 3 days time will receive my new MIG welder since I had to return the previous one to my friends (after 3 years of free usage)

And then.... this happened:





The only rusted area on the chassis. I hate this kind of things but had no other choise but to face the problem. So, I took the electric saw ....





I feel not so confident with this kind of body work. That's why I dislike to do it. Will see...
Thanks for reading.

P.S. Don't see much of comments lately. Sad, because of the time wasting for posting here! The updates on RR are ceased. 

Suck it up ,Buttercup. There are loads of people that love your work,but possibly feel intimidated by the standard to which you work,hence no comments. If all you seek is Attention and admiration,I suggest you get a dog.

I wouldn't be put off by lack of comments. If a 1000 people are still viewing you're updates, it's still creating a lot of interest after 2 years so well done.