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Apr 10, 2016 21:26:51 GMT
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Bought a big tin of smooth hammerite, some celly thinners, and some foam rollers. From my internet searching skillz it seems many light coats, with hefty wet-and-dry action in between, could potentially give a passable, durable finish. Has anyone here tried it? And if so, are there any tips? It seems roughly 4:1 paint to thinners could be the mix?
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Apr 10, 2016 21:44:47 GMT
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Thats going to take an age to harden between coats!
Warm days will be required id think.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842 
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Apr 10, 2016 22:21:15 GMT
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I seem to remember that its a curse word to flat?
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Apr 10, 2016 22:29:21 GMT
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That stuff is curse word, EPOXY please..
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steveg
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,586
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Apr 10, 2016 23:36:11 GMT
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I have to say I tried using some smooth hammerite quite a few years ago and it was pretty terrible. I think they much have changed the formulation from what it was originally as it wasn't like hammer finish hammerite at all.
It could be different now though, try a smallish area first to see how it goes if you decide to go ahead.
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Apr 10, 2016 23:36:43 GMT
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No sounds expensive unless you got a cheap source of Hammerite.
You'd be better off coach painting it with proper coach paint.
We used to paint our old Bedford TK like that and there were no brush strokes visible.
I did my 850 mini the same way and it fooled ppl when standing still. How much is your Cooper mate? It did 65 flat in 3rd and if put in 4th would cough + splutter up to 70 on clock.
Seriously gutless but fun on the fields.
Don't do what I did and put decals on without panel wiping. They flew off the side of the car about 40mph!
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"To Big block or not to Big block?" Thats the question!
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I don't reckon much to Hammerite/Smoothrite now,i'm sure it's not the same as is used to be.I think it would be horrible to flat off and takes an age to harden fully.
Another vote for coach paint,i brush painted a lightweight Landie with it and it didn't show brush strokes.I used a Hamilton oval varnish brush which seemed to be the tool for the job back then.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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If its bodywork you are doing try rustoleum.
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Iain
Part of things
Posts: 351
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I hope to god you're happy with the finish because can't imagine removing it will be much fun.
I planned to roller on some 2 pack paint once, is that not an option?
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Are you sure about celly thinners? Ime sure they are not compatible with smooth rite , I myself would go and by some tractor paint, it's cheap goes on well with a roller or brush, and if you want it really shiney chuck 20% yacht varnish in second coat
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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Apr 11, 2016 10:17:22 GMT
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Are you sure about celly thinners? Ime sure they are not compatible with smooth rite , I myself would go and by some tractor paint, it's cheap goes on well with a roller or brush, and if you want it really shiney chuck 20% yacht varnish in second coat I've used Celly thinners with smoothrite for spraying, works just fine. |
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Apr 11, 2016 11:44:00 GMT
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I had a MKI Cortina (in early 80's) that has been sprayed with Hammerite. Looked terrible after a while and basically was one of the reasons why the car got scrapped as no way of making it look decent.
IMO Hammerite is one way of making a car acceptable for a year of so before going to scrapyard when it's not worth painting properly.
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gazz81
Part of things
Posts: 842
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Apr 11, 2016 11:50:40 GMT
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I used it for spraying heater boxes, brake servo's, suspension components etc. Wouldn't paint a car with it!
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hamps
Posted a lot
www.medwayrscentre.co.uk
Posts: 2,077
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Apr 11, 2016 11:56:51 GMT
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Hammerwrong! stuff is pants, use 2k or rustoleom  |
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Apr 11, 2016 14:02:17 GMT
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Hammerite/smoothrite is for the garden not cars.
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Apr 11, 2016 15:03:09 GMT
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Rustoleum works well, used both spray cans & tins & a brush or roller. Needs turps or white spirit to thin.
Composimmonite the Mk1 wasn't pale blue with a white stripe was it? I did mine in the late 70's with pale blue hammerite & Tekaloid stripe. Would have had the plate 588KOO
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Apr 11, 2016 16:59:44 GMT
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Rustoleum works well, used both spray cans & tins & a brush or roller. Needs turps or white spirit to thin. Composimmonite the Mk1 wasn't pale blue with a white stripe was it? I did mine in the late 70's with pale blue hammerite & Tekaloid stripe. Would have had the plate 588KOO The MKI was peppermint green with big fibreglass front spoiler and brown fur interior ! Chap I worked with was a Cortina nut and bought a red R reg MKIII 1600XL brand new. He then went onto having a MKII 1600E and the MKI in his "collection". House move meant he could only house the MKIII so the 1600E was sold and the MKI given to me. The chap had the MKIII for around 30 years and kept it mint (had MKIV as everyday car) until eventually illness affected his sight and he lost his licence so I assume it was sold. |
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Apr 11, 2016 18:00:23 GMT
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They've definately changed recipes .... I've got stuff in my garage that i painted years ago ( i'm talking 15yrs +) with various Hammerite products,and they are still good.
Got stuff i've painted in the last few yrs with Hammerite that haven't lasted that well at all.
Got better results with b&q own brand metal paint......
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shin2chin
Part of things
Making curse word cars slightly better
Posts: 820
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Apr 11, 2016 18:59:59 GMT
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I rollered my Defender with the nato style paint from Ebay. Available in all the RAL colours and goes on lovely. Really hard wearing too. Did it in dark grey with a black roof. Roof was done in smooth hammerite and was awful, poor to apply and horrible texture, didn't smooth out very well. Definitely wouldn't want to do a full car in it.
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1977 PORSCHE 2.0na 924
1974 VW Beetle 1600
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Apr 11, 2016 19:04:25 GMT
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Same as red oxide I used it at work 25 years ago for painting over pipe welds and used to bring it home and paint my vw beetles with it. But you try use it now and within a month or two rust is breaking through..
Epoxy 121 I use now as it does not soak up moisture ..
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