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What exhaust diameter did you go for? The boy racers think anything less than 3-inch diameter is too small. I'm of a different view and just wanted to see if a highly detailed build like this confirms my suspicions. That was discussed with my engine guru. He has built many YB engines, in fact he built the first RS500 engine so he knows a thing or two about them. He recommended 3" for the 520bhp I have so that is what I went for. Complete system (apart from 4WD manifold) prior to ceramic coating. Manifold and main pipe coated. For that power level that would be spot on I'd say.... 2.5 is ok up to about 500hp... although the closer you get to that level the closer to the limit you'll be. Maybe at about 400-450 you'd think about 3-inch. BTW... an equal length stainless tubular manifold weighs way less than a cast log manifold. Has that been added somewhere in the 97 pages?
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That was discussed with my engine guru. He has built many YB engines, in fact he built the first RS500 engine so he knows a thing or two about them. He recommended 3" for the 520bhp I have so that is what I went for. Complete system (apart from 4WD manifold) prior to ceramic coating. Manifold and main pipe coated. For that power level that would be spot on I'd say.... 2.5 is ok up to about 500hp... although the closer you get to that level the closer to the limit you'll be. Maybe at about 400-450 you'd think about 3-inch. BTW... an equal length stainless tubular manifold weighs way less than a cast log manifold. Has that been added somewhere in the 97 pages? 3" will do me for quite a while. When we built this engine space was at a premium as well as cost and I wasn't anal about weight back then :-) Space is now not so critical (flip front and no inner wings) and a tubular manifold has been designed but won't be made until I have managed to make use of all of the existing power :-)
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tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
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Feb 17, 2019 10:07:37 GMT
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We used Zircotec too. Nice company to deal with.
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Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
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Feb 17, 2019 10:10:14 GMT
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We used Zircotec too. Nice company to deal with. Agree. I am also using their Zircoflex heat shield material. More expensive than the boy racer stuff but worth it.
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Feb 17, 2019 16:44:13 GMT
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Just found this from way back in the late 70s/early 80s
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Feb 17, 2019 17:51:51 GMT
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Great picture and I love the van !
is it a Commer?
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Feb 17, 2019 19:35:16 GMT
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Great picture and I love the van ! is it a Commer? I think that is was a BMC J2
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Feb 17, 2019 19:43:41 GMT
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The cast log manifold will be fine power-wise.
The thing about cast manifolds is that you can make any shape you want. It is unequal but that's not really an issue when you're mashing it through a turbine. The equal length business and the 4-2-1 or 2-1 or 4-1 design details are all about making pulses accelerate other pulses as they run down the header to the rear. The idea is to create a draw-thru effect so pulses pull other pulses and accelerate the exhaust gases. Then you combine that with valve overlap where the intake and exhaust are open at the same time so the air rushing down the exhaust accelerates the air coming through the intake.
But soon as you plonk a big snail in the system none of that matters any more. Turbo camshafts don't benefit from draw-through effect either, if anything... having the exhaust valve closed while the intake is open is the preference so you can stuff the cylinder with pressurised intake.
I only mentioned it for weight-saving reasons. A tubular manifold will be about half the weight.
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Feb 17, 2019 20:30:44 GMT
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The cast log manifold will be fine power-wise. The thing about cast manifolds is that you can make any shape you want. It is unequal but that's not really an issue when you're mashing it through a turbine. The equal length business and the 4-2-1 or 2-1 or 4-1 design details are all about making pulses accelerate other pulses as they run down the header to the rear. The idea is to create a draw-thru effect so pulses pull other pulses and accelerate the exhaust gases. Then you combine that with valve overlap where the intake and exhaust are open at the same time so the air rushing down the exhaust accelerates the air coming through the intake. But soon as you plonk a big snail in the system none of that matters any more. Turbo camshafts don't benefit from draw-through effect either, if anything... having the exhaust valve closed while the intake is open is the preference so you can stuff the cylinder with pressurised intake. I only mentioned it for weight-saving reasons. A tubular manifold will be about half the weight. Yup, agree with all of that :-) If I ever manage to use all of the available power one upgrade would be a twin scroll turbo, 4 branch manifold and external wastegate. However, that is way into the future.
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Feb 18, 2019 19:28:56 GMT
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In order for throttle pedal to clear the top of the footwell I needed to trim around 7mm from the top of the pad. I did this on the band saw and did the same on the bottom to even it up. I then spied my mini mill and thought as I was there it would be rude not to, so I spent half an hour removing all the unnecessary aluminium from the back of the pad. It started off at 80gms :-) I think that I will revisit the brake and clutch pads :-)
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Feb 19, 2019 13:49:03 GMT
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Original pedal pads weighed 360gms. They now weigh 167gms so almost 200gms removed. And that is just from the pads. As it arrived from OBP.
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Last Edit: Feb 19, 2019 13:50:07 GMT by nalesutol
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Feb 19, 2019 13:57:56 GMT
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This is 'Dragging' on too long now - speed up man, I want to know what she'll run!
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96 E320 W210 Wafter - on 18" split Mono's - Sold :-( 10 Kia Ceed Sportwagon - Our new daily 03 Import Forester STi - Sold 98 W140 CL500 AMG - Brutal weekend bruiser! Sold :-( 99 E240 S210 Barge - Now sold 02 Accord 2.0SE - wife's old daily - gone in PX 88 P100 2.9efi Custom - Sold
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Feb 19, 2019 14:58:02 GMT
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This is 'Dragging' on too long now - speed up man, I want to know what she'll run! :-) So do I. I am getting there, but there is just me working on it.
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,036
Club RR Member Number: 77
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Feb 19, 2019 17:17:10 GMT
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This is 'Dragging' on too long now - speed up man, I want to know what she'll run! :-) So do I. I am getting there, but there is just me working on it. And how much weight have you managed to shave off of yourself for the lightness cause? (Not meant in a "you are all the pies" fashion either, just as a matter of interest)
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Feb 19, 2019 23:57:45 GMT
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:-) So do I. I am getting there, but there is just me working on it. And how much weight have you managed to shave off of yourself for the lightness cause? (Not meant in a "you are all the pies" fashion either, just as a matter of interest) Pies......Mmmmmmmmmm As it happens, I have just started my weight shaving program. Base weight is 85.7kg and I am aiming for around 77kg (I am 6' 1") which would be my racing snake fighting weight.
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Feb 20, 2019 17:22:17 GMT
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I finally started a task today that I have been putting off for months - Fitting the dash top. I have been prevaricating and ruminating for some time as I couldn't decide on the best way to do it. Initially I was going to simply stick it on and access the electrics through the central switch panel and the glove box cover. However, as the stuff behind the dash became more complicated and numerous it became obvious that I would need to retrain as a gynaecologist in order to be able to work on everything. So, I decided that part of the dash top had to be removable to allow decent access, but how to do this without it looking rubbish? I have yet to finalise how the removable cover is going to be secured but at least I have made a start and this is usually the most difficult part of any project.
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We were discussing, at the pub last night, whether the driver's seat had to be adjustable when car is being MOT'd.
Taken from the MOT tester's manual: Body, Structure and General Items - 6.2 Seats and Doors
3. Check that the drivers seat position can be adjusted forwards and backwards and secured in the selected positions.
If this is the case, how do rally cars with fixed seats pass the test?
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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There’s an exemption in the front of the manual for race/rally cars - my roadgoing (MOTd) sprint/hillclimb car seat is fixed position.
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scimjim
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,503
Club RR Member Number: 8
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13 Extensively modified vehicles If a vehicle has been extensively modified or converted, certain defects, such as for components ‘missing where fitted as standard’ shouldn't be applied, for example: • a car converted for competition rally use must have the rear seats removed, be fitted with a roll cage and full harness seat belts, may not be fitted with components such as brake servo, power steering or airbags • a car converted to a stretch limousine may no longer be fitted with items such as curtain airbags or a functional electronic stability control system This exemption doesn’t apply to vehicles with minor modifications. Therefore, a car fitted with rally style seats, body kit and a sports steering wheel wouldn’t be exempt from the requirement to have a driver’s airbag if one was fitted as standard equipment. Vehicles modified for disabled use must be assessed on their merits. For example, it's acceptable for the driver’s airbag to be removed for a wheelchair user, but the SRS warning lamp mustn't indicate a system malfunction. mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/when-is-a-modified-vehicle-a-rally-car/
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