|
|
|
May 26, 2016 10:06:55 GMT
|
 It's not such a great improvement in looks that's for sure.  and with the hard top you have another mounting surface for aero stability devices. Gosh, that is old! Yeah, I am looking at sharks teeth at the moment. The roof also allows me to better secure the windows. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 26, 2016 10:08:46 GMT
|
The other thing to bear in mind is a hardtop will mean you are more likely to have laminar flow over the rear wing and therefore it actually work, the picture of the MX5 clearly shows it would be in the middle of the turbulent flow in a convertible. Exactly :-) All in all, the hard top is the way to go. I will, however, have to deal with the heat/ventilation issues as the windows will be fixed and no heater. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 26, 2016 22:29:37 GMT
|
Roll bar cover didn't turn out too bad. These will cover the holes where the rear hoop supports will pass through the rear shelf. They will be glued to the bars but not to the shelf, allowing for a certain amount of body/cage flex. Once fitted with the joints filled and painted to match the cage they should look OK. The second one will look better :-)  |
| |
Last Edit: May 26, 2016 22:32:33 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 18:21:45 GMT
|
Wing bracket came out pretty well. Gave it a quick clearcoat just to see what the weave looked like, hence the bubbles :-) Once it is sanded and painted it should look OK.  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 19:12:47 GMT
|
|
Looks nice in clearcoat - almost too nice to paint!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 19:40:17 GMT
|
Isn't paint more weight? i thought you were adding lightness......  |
| |
Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 21:12:55 GMT
|
Isn't paint more weight? i thought you were adding lightness...... The bubbles are filled with helium |
| |
Too many projects, not enough time.
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 22:37:42 GMT
|
Isn't paint more weight? i thought you were adding lightness...... The bubbles are filled with helium :-) Paint weighs as much as clearcoat so not an issue. Although I admit that I am a little OCD on weight, it also has to look good in my eyes. I am not a fan of CF weave as I consider it passé and only for those who want to show off. The car will be covered in CF but no weave showing anywhere. Besides, I haven't managed to get the weave on the bigger panels to look right, so I couldn't show it even if I wanted to. However, there is a time advantage in painting in that I haven't got to spend hours making sure the weave is straight and matching. Slap the CF on and hide it with paint :-) |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 27, 2016 23:38:30 GMT
|
The bubbles are filled with helium :-) Paint weighs as much as clearcoat so not an issue. Although I admit that I am a little OCD on weight, it also has to look good in my eyes. I am not a fan of CF weave as I consider it passé and only for those who want to show off. The car will be covered in CF but no weave showing anywhere. Besides, I haven't managed to get the weave on the bigger panels to look right, so I couldn't show it even if I wanted to. However, there is a time advantage in painting in that I haven't got to spend hours making sure the weave is straight and matching. Slap the CF on and hide it with paint :-) Function over form or form over function its fast it will look great... |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
But if it's showing, people will be like 'Wow! That's a lot of CF. That must have been expensive to get made!' And then you can tell them you made it yourself.  You should hint at it in some places. When you paint it, do some small lettering like your name or something with vinyl first, and then peel it off so that it's done in CF through the paint. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
But if it's showing, people will be like 'Wow! That's a lot of CF. That must have been expensive to get made!' And then you can tell them you made it yourself. You should hint at it in some places. When you paint it, do some small lettering like your name or something with vinyl first, and then peel it off so that it's done in CF through the paint. I like this idea - very subtle! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 28, 2016 14:35:14 GMT
|
But if it's showing, people will be like 'Wow! That's a lot of CF. That must have been expensive to get made!' And then you can tell them you made it yourself. You should hint at it in some places. When you paint it, do some small lettering like your name or something with vinyl first, and then peel it off so that it's done in CF through the paint. The people that matter to me (family, close car nut friends and fellow forum members) know all about it, everyone else can just guess :-) |
| |
|
|
jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,788
Club RR Member Number: 49
|
|
May 28, 2016 17:28:41 GMT
|
|
I always find painting CF / woven composites a pain due to the amount it sinks into the weave, at least its a pain if your looking for a flat finish.
That said, if a show level finish isn't the important part then the sunken weave pattern will let anyone in the know know its woven composites not normal CSM. It'll look like an F40's paint.
I like the car. Tis good. Also it has many holey panels, I like holey panels. :-)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I will be looking for a flat finish :-)
Thanks. Holey panels are things of beauty :-)
|
| |
|
|
jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,788
Club RR Member Number: 49
|
|
|
|
|
Cool.
Best results I've had was scraping a light cover of plaster of parris on then back off. It left behind an absolute minimum of material just filling in the pinpoints. We did this a couple of times. Car filler is very sticky so was difficult to get it back off suitably plus plaster is lighter.
It was then high build primer that was sanded back as far as we could before colour.
It wasn't quick / easy or perfect by any means but the paint on the tub looked better than most I've seen, whilst still being minimal weight.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 29, 2016 10:59:31 GMT
|
Cool. Best results I've had was scraping a light cover of plaster of parris on then back off. It left behind an absolute minimum of material just filling in the pinpoints. We did this a couple of times. Car filler is very sticky so was difficult to get it back off suitably plus plaster is lighter. It was then high build primer that was sanded back as far as we could before colour. It wasn't quick / easy or perfect by any means but the paint on the tub looked better than most I've seen, whilst still being minimal weight. Thanks, I will try that. I guess any 'polyfilla' would also work as it is only filling in the tiny pin pricks. |
| |
|
|
heathrobinson
Part of things
Broken everything
Posts: 848 
Club RR Member Number: 111
|
|
May 29, 2016 22:47:48 GMT
|
|
I'll preface this by saying that I know less than nothing about CF, but couldn't you use something like the stuff you put in fibreglass resin to colour it? Or would that be heavier than paint? Just bunging a topcoat colour in with the resin seems like a quick and simple way to do it.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 29, 2016 23:35:40 GMT
|
|
There are fillers and dyes that can be used, they help but the weave still shows. The only way I know is to use the black dye, which I do, then rub down smooth, primer/filler then top coat.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 29, 2016 23:48:45 GMT
|
There are fillers and dyes that can be used, they help but the weave still shows. The only way I know is to use the black dye, which I do, then rub down smooth, primer/filler then top coat. I am a big fan of" Featherfill" or "Slicksand" to get a final surface (before sealer) to paint on. The debate rages on as to which is better, but they both work well. I use Durablocks to do the block sanding. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bracket curve nicely follows wing profile, which is fortunate :-)  |
| |
Last Edit: Jun 1, 2016 21:27:19 GMT by nalesutol
|
|
and with the hard top you have another mounting surface for aero stability devices. 
