sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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Jan 31, 2016 19:36:49 GMT
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I keep hearing that epoxy primer is the way to go, and after experiencing mild rusting through etch primer I seriously want to try it and get it right.
When looking for some I notice most needs to be mixed for a gun, I have a cheap Aldi/Clarke compressor and matching paint gun but am I going to struggle with this? Likely never going to do more than a panel at a time.
There are some aerosols but is it worth it?
Also are their any techniques or tips for application? And what brands would you recommend?
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Jan 31, 2016 20:11:00 GMT
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I put it on with a gloss mini roller, works fine especially if you put a high build primer over it and then flatten it back.
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V8 MGB GT sprint and track V8 Ford Pilot Woodie project 1971 Early Bay VW camper
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Jan 31, 2016 20:32:56 GMT
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Slight thread hijack but I take it as it's an epoxy you have to mix it with hardener and throw what you don't use?
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Jan 31, 2016 21:09:34 GMT
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Slight thread hijack but I take it as it's an epoxy you have to mix it with hardener and throw what you don't use? Yes, the trick of course is to make just enough.
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V8 MGB GT sprint and track V8 Ford Pilot Woodie project 1971 Early Bay VW camper
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Jan 31, 2016 22:50:49 GMT
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Spraying epoxy is no different than any other primer. Any cheap gun should suffice, a 1.4 or 1.7 mm tip will do. I always use Selemix epoxy and can't fault it, it's made by Max Meyer.
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I used an Aldi compressor and a Clarke gun with about 10% thinners it went on fine, if you struggle you may need to thin it a little more. The great thing is it is waterproof greatly reducing the risk of micro blistering when used in the less than ideal conditions we tend to paint in.
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left unsaid so far is that without a charcoal filter respirator, epoxy primer is going to kill you. That is a bad thing.
If you think about it, "primer" goes about its job by being able to absorb what is put on top of it. If it is left un-coated, what it absorbs is moisture. Hence the rust you are seeing.
If time is going to elapse between the repair and the final paint-job, I would shoot the panel with rustoleum or whatever paint you have handy; it will keep the rust at bay and you can just sand it off when you go to paint the car. POR and Chassis Saver are great products, but if you plan to use them on clean smooth metal, you need to prep the metal first.
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sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
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left unsaid so far is that without a charcoal filter respirator, epoxy primer is going to kill you. That is a bad thing. [Citation Needed] Thanks for all your advice so far, think I might just have to dive in and have a go.
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at200
Part of things
Posts: 86
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Epoxy primer is a 2k product - which simply means it comes in two parts (Komponent in German). Not all 2k products contain isocyanates. Lechler 29107 epoxy primer is non isocyanate. Cheapest I have seen online is at Express Paints. You need to ask for it to be tinted though as it comes clear.
Even though it's non iso, I would strongly recommend buying a good rubber face mask. Gerson sell one that is good for limited 2k use (30 hours I think) and certainly good for aerosols etc. About £15 on eBay.
There is lots of info on epoxy primer on the mig welding forum UK.
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I had the same issue with my van project, working on one area at a time and not wanting it to rust. I used custom epoxy 421 by rust.co.uk based on reviews and tests. First area i done was the roof with a mini gloss roller which applied quite nicely. Later on i got a compressor and spray gun so applied the rest with that. Its been about just over 2 years since i done the roof and theres no sign of rusting anywhere, id recommend it. www.rust.co.uk/custom-421-rust-proofing-primer/c32736/
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