foxy99
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May 26, 2022 12:04:59 GMT
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So, the other day, I referred to something as 'a red thing'. Well after more confusion looking thru the parts-list regarding brackets, alternators, dynamos etc I've learned this is the fan-cowl. It looks like a fan but does not move. It's not to be confused with the radiator-cowls which are metal. The is the (squarish) outlat one ans the rounded inlet one. Anyway my fan-cowl is pretty bright red (as they all are) and the fan itself is another pretty vivid colour but now a bit faded yellow. I'm not sure why they made them like this but both were covered in oil so I cleaned/inspected them. I knew, years ago, that the cowl was cracked/damaged but have no idea how it would have happened. It has gouges on the inside rim which must've been caused by the fan-blades I guess and one of the 4 mounting holes is badly cracked. It is bolted to the water-pump body and I don't remember any drama removing it years and years ago but perhaps there was a seized bolt there before and someone got frustrated and broke it to get it off. Who knows? Am sure it could be fixed with epoxy or something but I don't imagine a used one would be that expensive or hard to find. There's not much to say about the fan but they both look better with the oil cleaned off and am sure would function better too. Strangely the cowl has signs of paint overspray on it. Looks yellow to me. I noticed this years ago and assumed it was something to do with the colour of the fan blade. Like it was originally same colour and was painted red later or was painted red and worn/faded to the colour underneath but now it's clear it's overspray so am thinking it may be off a different car as my car only ever had black paint (over the original green) and there was grey primer under that. After cleaning the rubber gaiter which connects the front radiator-cowl to the fan-cowl i was surprised at how good a condition it is in. A lot or aftermarket (Chinese ?) rubber parts you see are brittle after a few years and this is getting on 60 years old. As I said above I've only (so far) located one of the big metal rings which secure each end of the gaiter but noticed when I offered the parts up that it's a very loose fit on the radiator-cowl side but fits the fan-cowl well. Am thinking there is mb something which goes in between the two but can't see anything in the parts list about it. It's unusual for rubber to get bigger. Usually it shrinks over the years. (cleaned) fan-cowl damaged where it bolts to water-pump bodyfan-cowl has these gouges in one area(cleaned) fan has 3-bolt fixing to water-pump 'centre'fan-cowl appears to have (yellow?) overspray on it gaiter is a very loose fit on radiator-cowlrubber gaiter is in remarkable condition for age but appears to have a a slice out of it here
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,873
Club RR Member Number: 39
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May 26, 2022 13:41:49 GMT
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Cowl bolt hole probably the one that also led to the casting and stamping mounts being snapped off - Shame you were not doing this 12months ago as I threw out a couple of good cowls and fans. When the bolts seize into the water pump casting they can seize good.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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So I haven't really done anything on the Imp last couple of weeks, as I was working more or less every day with my pal, and (to my amazement) the old Mondeo 2.2 passed its MOT so I'm now ready to get back working for myself again. Start tomorrow The last couple of days, however, I have been labouring for the guy I rent the barn off so after my shift have been moving all the Imp stuff to the space the 2.2 occupied for 3 months. This space is actually right next to the Imp, which seems appropriate, but I've also been having a good tidy-up hoping I will come across the Solex carb. It must be in the barn somewhere but I cannot seem to find it Anyway the rest of the frame I had made for the Imp shell (about 30 years ago) was under the Imp so I've dug that out and will continue to use bits of it for the engine-stand. The idea for the frame was basically 2 cradles to bolt on to the bumper mounts front & back and then be joined together with long bits (welded to the cradles) which bolted together in the middle. It never happened for my 20-odd year old self but hey it wasn't a total waste of time if I can use them for something now. I also re-scanned some pics I took shortly when I first got the car. They aren't great quality (as they were taken with a disposable camera) but they do throw up one or two minute answers. I mentioned recently that I can only find one of the large rings which hold the rubber gaiter to the fan-cowls. Well, looking closely at a pic of the engine-bay I can only see one so I haven't actually lost one. It tells me that the engine has almost definitely been out before. As said (constantly ) the head was definitely changed but I've often wondered if it was with engine in or out. I may find out for real when I go to visit the Black Prince. He may no longer be alive but it's just possible I will have the engine fired up soon and I can take it down on my trailer to show him and interrogate him further about the Imp. Who knows he may even have the dashboard plaque he told me about in the early 90s One of the things he did enthuse about was the rear bumper.... he asked me if it was still dented (it is) and explained that this happened coming down from Loch Lomond. He said they braked sharply at a roundabout near Alexandria (iirc) and a motorcyclist behind ran into the back of the Imp and landed in the pick-up bed I really hope I can meet him one more time remainder of frame made in early 90sImp arriving at my lock-up in 1988what a picture. pity it's so darknote dented rear bumperlooks like there was only one clip on the rubber gaiter when I got carstrange that Sport oil-cooler brackets were not removedengine being removed in early 90s
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Last Edit: Jun 7, 2022 22:20:07 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,873
Club RR Member Number: 39
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And that interesting fan belt usually found on Myford lathes - I hope that the timing pointer was not actually used to set the timing.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,873
Club RR Member Number: 39
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The manual says fit it the other way up so it has the TDC stamped on it facing you. That way up the timing would be set 15-20 degrees out.
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2022 6:31:45 GMT by Darkspeed
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Jun 10, 2022 10:35:15 GMT
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The manual says fit it the other way up so it has the TDC stamped on it facing you. That way up the timing would be set 15-20 degrees out. ah, I see That's interesting for 2 reasons. Firstly it would tell the previous owner why he (presumably) had problems getting it to run correctly. I do have an email from someone saying it was always overheating - but that isn't rare with Imps afaik Secondly it tells me the sump/generator-bracket or even full bottom-end of engine was worked on or even came from another vehicle. I really need to speak to the Black Prince
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1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,873
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Jun 10, 2022 13:26:39 GMT
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The pointer that way round sets everything about 25 degrees retarded. Interesting that the DC are the same just the T inverts - Honest mistake?
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Last Edit: Jun 10, 2022 13:28:29 GMT by Darkspeed
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 929
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Jun 11, 2022 14:23:40 GMT
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Re: Fan & Fan cowls.
For my 998 I replaced the factory "pull [hot] through/from engine bay" direction fan for a Plastic MINI fan.
Cut the ends off the blades to a nice neat fit... Drill new holes to suit IMP water pump and use the alloy spacers.... AIRFLOW now "up from [cool] under car/out boot gills"!
OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,200
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Jun 12, 2022 11:26:03 GMT
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Re: Fan & Fan cowls. For my 998 I replaced the factory "pull [hot] through/from engine bay" direction fan for a Plastic MINI fan. Cut the ends off the blades to a nice neat fit... Drill new holes to suit IMP water pump and use the alloy spacers.... AIRFLOW now "up from [cool] under car/out boot gills"! OVIMOR That's the way it should have been from the start I.M.O. on the MR2 (similar layout but mid engined) its designed that way, the combination of roof spoiler & boot spoiler creates a low pressure area above the engine lid that sucks the air up from under the car, it's that powerful it can lift an unlatched engine at 40/50 mph. There is a small electric cooling fan, but that only runs when at low speed (less than 5mph or stationary)
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2022 11:33:29 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,200
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Jun 12, 2022 12:19:00 GMT
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Apologies to foxy99 for cluttering up your thread. The red MK1 (fitted with a V6 ) belonged to a friend, watch the engine lid as it passes That's the airflow lifting it
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Last Edit: Jun 12, 2022 18:32:35 GMT by jimi: Sorted video link
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Jun 27, 2022 17:31:28 GMT
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So not a great deal has been done on the Imp last few weeks but I did buy a big box of generator/water-pump fixtures and fittings. Why? Well my casting & plate are damaged and I'm not sure if I'll be going with alternator or dynamo and the whole lot was only £20 inc P&P so I thought I'd go for it and learn something along the way and have the option re the generator and/or whatever is correct for my car. Also. The guy had listed a joblot of air-cleaners for ages and eventually I bid on them, thinking no-one else would, and missed out on the auction by a £ or so. And I don't have any airbox at all (other than the Sport type) so I decided I wasn't missing out on this one. So the box arrived and I have, in addition to my original bits, 5 castings; 7 plates; 4 arms and a number of original fasteners plus a weird bit of shiny metal that someone added to theirs. A heat-shield perhaps. I have got as far as dismantling the assembled ones, checking all the plates, castings and arms for numbers and differences and then put the assembled ones back together until I know what I have. So far all the plates are identical apart from my original (which has no captive-nut) and one of the new ones. This has a spacer/collar pressed into the top hole. None of the others have this. The castings show several different numbers but they don't indicate differences. I have 1/2; 2/1; 2/2; 3/2. 3 of the 6 have 1/2 on them and they are all different, There are 2 different lengths of arms but within that the long arms have different length slots in them. And my original arm (alternator?) has a shallower bend than all the others. So there's quite a lot going on there and it's very possible that that assemblies I have might have been tampered with before so I can't say for sure that a particular arm definitely goes with a particular bracket or plate. There is one pair which definitely go together tho. The casting has a machine area that none of the others have and that goes with the plate that has the extra collar (mentioned above). This casting has the 3/2 on it and a couple of other minor differences but I think the 3/2 is of no actual consequence. joblot of bits for £20. front and back3 lone plates from haul look identical to my (damaged) originalbut mine doesn't have the captive-nutall the same dimensionally4 adjuster straps from the haul. only 2 are identicalstraps from haul have much deeper profile than my onefour castings (front mounts) showing different numbers7010044 1/27010044 2/17010044 2/27010044 3/2all these castings have 7010044 1/2 but all differ7010044 3/2 casting has these differences7010044 3/2 casting with its plate (rear mount) and strapplate for 7010044 3/2 casting has integral spacershort part of spacer fits in machined area on castingSo I've studied the parts list in detail and posted some of these pics on Facebook Imp group and am still pretty confused. The chances of finding any of these NOS is almost zero so it's difficult to match any of them to the part numbers in the parts list. There are drawings in the parts list but they aren't identical to the parts I'm seeing. The parts list is also very confusing as it seems to dwell on certain parts being 'except Sport & Stiletto' and 'Sport & Stiletto' but afaik Sport/Stiletto models were fitted with dynamos like standard models so why would they need different fixtures? Were the dynamos perhaps slightly different on these models. There are entries in the parts list for cars with alternator and it would seem that my 3/2 casting and its plate are for the alternator set-up but that's also puzzling as my car has an alternator but doesn't have these brackets. Also the parts list shows that fro dynamo-equipped cars there was a separate spacer (either 0.5" or 1.6") for the position the alternator brackets have the integral one so it seems all cars needed one anyway. Lastly the rear support-bracket (ie the non-pulley end) for the alternator doesn't show at all in the parts list but I have one and have also found a pic online of another which differs very slightly no entries in parts list for alternator rear support-bracket but there are at least 2 types
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Last Edit: Jun 28, 2022 13:17:47 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Wow. Talk about missed chances.... I've mentioned before about how near yet so far away I've been in contacting previous owners of my Imp but quite out of the blue I got a lead this week. I started a thread on a Birmingham local-history forum recently to try to trace a Mr R Adams who'd written to - and got a reply from - Mr T Panks (my Imp's creator) in 1981. On the forum there was much interesting chat and help about old records of businesses run from the shops at the address in Coventry Road, Sheldon, Birmingham 26 but nothing concrete then a guy posts that Mr R Adams currently runs Bobs Affordable Classics in Knowle. I called today and his daughter answers only to tell me he passed away last week I guess I shouldn't be surprised as it was all so long ago but after missing out on the other owner (Neil C Morrison) by a week or so this is a bit of a double-blow. Anyway his daughter was very nice and has emailed me already so I guess there is a very very very slim chance I might glean some info NB one thing that made me smile is that the address for the business in Knowle, which is about 100 miles from where the car started out, is Warwick Road and that was also part of the address for the garage which owned it in 1974 (under Neil C Morrison)
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Last Edit: Jun 28, 2022 13:20:06 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Jul 21, 2022 21:22:22 GMT
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Last Edit: Jul 22, 2022 9:32:08 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Jul 22, 2022 10:00:37 GMT
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So here's my data It all looks pretty consistent at just over 68mm. I can't, yet, find in mm what the wear limit is before you need a rebore but will establish that later today am sure. The Rootes WSM just gives a figure (Imperial) for how much to add-on to the standard bore size but that varies if you have A, B, or C bores from new . Mine are all B, incidentally. On my hand-scribbled chart I'm calling the timing-end #1. Couldn't find any info last night in books to say if that's what Rootes did. When I say 'longitude' I mean in-line with the crank/gudgeon-pins. 'opposite' is at 90 degrees to that. I'm measuring by putting the bore-gauge in to what looks by eye to be perpendicular to the bore, locking it, taking it out then measuring the recorded distance with a manual outside micrometer. I'm sure there are inaccuracies in this process but I'm checking each measurement a few times. The 'opposite' figures are almost all larger than their corresponding 'longitude' figures which makes sense as this would be the rocking action of the piston wearing the bores and no so much side-to-side. I could only see one real anomaly: #4 top longitude figure was considerably less than all other figures. A fair bit under 83mm. So if somehow that one was the starting point for all the bores there's been a hell of a lot of wear consistently everywhere else I then measured #2 cylinder after the honing to see how much bigger the bore was getting. Somewhat surprisingly the figures seemed to stay the same which means I can hone away a bit more without worrying. There is one figure however which was wildly different: #2 middle opposite increased by 0.4mm I checked this several times and the reading I got stayed the same. This suggests I took wrong reading before the hone or I was tired and doing something wrong. Today I'm going to check all my figs again then hone all the bores then takes new readings. first attempt at measuring bores on the Imp blockthis reading stands out from all the others readings from #2 cylinder before and after honing. one figure stands out from the rest
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Last Edit: Jul 26, 2022 21:43:15 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,873
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Jul 22, 2022 13:57:58 GMT
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What you need to compare is the bores to the pistons - Measure the piston at 90 to the gudgeon and then compare that to the figures you are getting to the bores - 1-2 thou is alright - 5-8 thou is getting pretty worn.
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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Jul 30, 2022 23:17:40 GMT
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So I finally got to do a bit work on the Imp today. Basically I finished 'glazebusting' the cylinders (#3 & #4) then took measurements. I've not analysed or compared them yet and also have the ones for cylinder #1 (on a bit of wood) but they look pretty consistent apart from #4 which has figures below 68mm. I was thinking perhaps this had been an A cylinder rather than a B but the block is stamped with B for all 4 cylinders so it's unlikely. I may also have mentioned previously that for some reason I didn't clearly mark a couple of the piston assys (#2 & #4) on dismantling and can't .'. say for sure which one is which. I have a feeling the one I brought home (unmarked?) was #4 and I know that's the one I have stored separate to the others. Anyway it was interesting to see in the WSM that the conrods and caps are supposed to be stamped to prevent mix-ups but there are def no marks on mine and on the Imp Facebook page the consensus was that they are never stamped. The WSM even shows a pic of the stampings A while back I bought a NOS micrometer small enough to measure thin things like shims so today I also cleaned-up the original shims and measured them. Despite having several heads/cam-follower housings etc I only have one set of shims (from the 533 head) and I understand it's not easy to find genuine Rootes ones. shims from 533 headshims cleaned and turned same way up0-25mm micrometervariety of thicknessesbefore and after measurements for cylinder #1after measurements for #3 & #4
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Last Edit: Jul 30, 2022 23:23:10 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 929
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I believe Triumph Stag shims will fit.... And come in a greater range of thickness.
#standstobecorrected
OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,453
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I believe Triumph Stag shims will fit.... And come in a greater range of thickness. #standstobecorrected OVIMOR Yes I read somewhere there are ones from other cars which fit. There's actually a listing on Ebay for some, for a mixed bunch of cars, including Imp. Bit of a pain if you need lots of different sizes tho - waiting on odd ones coming up There's someone in USA selling a bag of pukka ones but they are all .108"
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Last Edit: Jul 31, 2022 23:26:43 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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ovimor
North East
...It'll be ME!
Posts: 929
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Jul 31, 2022 16:20:52 GMT
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More of a 'truly desperate/BITD when yards were full of them' way was to scour a good bagful... Get your sizes [+/- a thou] and rig up your black&decker to wave a grind stone back and forth... Micrometer to check and ensure 'flatness'.
Today,I would take the pain and search out anything [that will fit] at correct thickness.
OVIMOR
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Knowledge is to know a Tomato is a 'fruit' - Wisdom, on the other hand, is knowing not to put it in a 'fruit salad'!
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