`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
|
|
|
I'm finally pulling my finger out and getting a move on with my mk1 astra estate. Its been sat in a cold barn for the last few years so ive got some surface rust to deal with in area`s like the inner wings. I'm going to use a wire brush on the grinder to clean the metal up but i was thinking of putting something like a converter over the top. Something like this- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252204246444?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThen some zinc primer. Whats peoples thoughts?
|
|
Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
|
|
|
|
|
|
clean it up best you can then epoxy primer
converters are snake oil imo
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
If you've got lots to do buy some concentrated phosphoric acid. Decant a small amount into a tray, dilute it and rub it on the rusty panels with a scotchbrite pad, then rinse it off; it'll shift surface rust easily. If there's lots of rust use a wire brush first then use the diluted acid. I use 81% phosphoric and let it down about 5 parts water to 1 part acid, but it's not critical. Wear gloves and goggles because it stings if you get it in a cut or your eyes but it's not toxic. Dry the panel and paint with zinc rich primer or epoxy primer.
|
|
V8 MGB GT sprint and track V8 Ford Pilot Woodie project 1971 Early Bay VW camper
|
|
|
|
|
Jenolite - been around years and years - they are all basically the same thing . Snake oil they are not , its simple chemistry .
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
simple chemistry to fool those that don't know any better maybe
if it light surface rust then you have no excuse to not remove it , if its deeply pitted whats the point in turning the surface black ? scratch it after the conversion and its still red rust underneath
removal is the best way...if you could brush on some conversion treatment and stop rust in its tracks there wouldnt be so many rotten cars about
show me one pro paint shop that uses converters ? no there is none , not because they're missing a trade secret its because it doesnt work (other than turning red rust black)
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
|
I always remove as much rust as possible, but I have also tried various rust converters. Many are useless but I used Dinitrol Converust on my Viva and to be fair it seems to have worked quite well. It's had a good coating of zinc rich primer and been sprayed liberally with my usual mix of 20W/50 engine oil and Waxoyl - but 3 years later the underside is completely rust free.
|
|
|
|
`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
|
|
|
Thanks for all the replys guys. I'm going to remove as much rust as i can with the wire cup but thought it would be belt and braces to treat it afterwards too. Most of it isnt bad at all but theres parts on the inner wings where its started to pit it. Might try the phosphoric acid route as suggested by docjohn once ive cleaned it up as much as i can,then zinc prime onto the bare metal.
|
|
Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
|
|
sb
Part of things
Posts: 725
|
|
|
Oops you wanted a converter not a stripper, oh well Ill leave this if its helpful. Evaporust - Only thing Ive ever tried that actually works. However it only works best when parts are fully submerged. It wont work on anything painted, as its not an acidic liquid so it will just ignore painted surfaces, which can be good and bad. While I will agree, doing it by hand is usually the best way this stuff is fantastic on awkward shapes, or if you don't have time to do it, just leave it in the solution for 24hours My results:
|
|
Last Edit: Dec 10, 2015 0:28:46 GMT by sb
|
|
|
|
|
I'm under the impression all those so called rust converters are useless. Either blast the rust or cut it out completely.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
also consider if you get it to clean bare metal , the epoxy or whatever you chose will have the very best chance of sticking and lasting as it should when applied to bare metal vs on top of some budget slop that scratches off
just spend the time and soak some remover on the pits , they will clean up eventualy ...a few more days/weeks at this stage is way easier than stripping and repainting in 18 months
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 14:57:05 GMT
|
I don't think the converters do much to be honest except make you feel you have done something useful!
As said the removers work best when you submerge stuff in it. I use balsamic vinegar as a remover,it's cheap and a few hours submerged in the stuff plus a rub with wire wool and the rust is gone.I used some the other day on some heavily rusted,pitted old Snap On sockets someone gave me and it removed every trace of rust overnight. For primer i love the old red resin Bondaprimer on clean metal afterwards,brilliant stuff. I don't know if the current Bondaprimer is the same formula though,i have a load of tins that are probably 20 plus years old now.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 15:03:29 GMT
|
ive used bonda primer , not bad at all , but for what it costs you can buy epoxy which is way way better
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 15:31:04 GMT
|
ive used bonda primer , not bad at all , but for what it costs you can buy epoxy which is way way better Yep i don't doubt that at all i'll give some a try in the future,just i have gallons of Bondaprimer to use up and it's always done a good job for me.Everything from the garden bench to my ramps have had a coat of it !
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 15:34:01 GMT
|
you seen the price of it now ? id not mind owning another tin but cant justify it
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 16:09:07 GMT
|
you seen the price of it now ? id not mind owning another tin but cant justify it Lol i hadn't til you mentioned it Just had a look at one little tin i keep handy in the house rest of em are in the shed,the lock up and at my old mans,Halfords price sticker on the bottom for 24 pence and it's a 1/4 pint tin,retro paint
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 16:15:27 GMT
|
hahah bet its a better formula too with lots of bad stuff in it
|
|
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 16:32:02 GMT
|
Yeah you can bet it is,no ingredients or warnings mentioned on the tin,pre dates elf n safety.. Can't remember where i got them,i know me and my dad painted a lighweight Landie chassis with it in the 80's but the tins must be 70's i think. I wish stuff was that price now.
|
|
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 16:39:50 GMT
|
I used the new forumla Bondaprimer on the Viva and it's lasted well so far. I guess it's not as 'full fat' as the old stuff but it seems good and it is lovely to use.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 16:42:20 GMT
|
I used the new forumla Bondaprimer on the Viva and it's lasted well so far. I guess it's not as 'full fat' as the old stuff but it seems good and it is lovely to use. Might not have changed much then,the stuff i have is really nice to use,flows lovely and covers really well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Dec 10, 2015 18:28:15 GMT
|
simple chemistry to fool those that don't know any better maybe if it light surface rust then you have no excuse to not remove it , if its deeply pitted whats the point in turning the surface black ? scratch it after the conversion and its still red rust underneath removal is the best way...if you could brush on some conversion treatment and stop rust in its tracks there wouldnt be so many rotten cars about show me one pro paint shop that uses converters ? no there is none , not because they're missing a trade secret its because it doesnt work (other than turning red rust black) I think your jumping the gun a bit by assuming people buy it to slap on heavy corrosion , thats obvioulsy not what its intended for . For example you have to fit half a sill and the inner has some small shallow rust spots but not enough to warrent cutting it out . Wire brush or wire wheel the area then treat with rust converter to eliminate any rust in pitted metal . The solution changes the rust from Iron Oxide to Iron Tannate , something which is chemically stable . I really really don't thing people slap it on corroded chassis legs and expect it to magically go through mm's of iron oxide and make it like new , thats just silly .
|
|
|
|
|