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So I dug this little tool out. I made it a couple of years back for cutting slots into a batch of screws I made for a WW2 tank. Made a new holder and drilled and reamed a hole for a dowel pin  Put it all back together and onto the old Bridgeport  Set up the stop  And away we go  Short while later  To answer my own question about how hard is it to make collets? Not very difficult at all....  Just need to clean up the bottom of the slots with a needle file. Another job that was a lot quicker and easier than I anticipated.... |
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I don't suppose you would like to start a thread in the other stuff bit on your WW2 stuff would you ......
?
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I don't suppose you would like to start a thread in the other stuff bit on your WW2 stuff would you ...... ? What? And make us mere mortals feel even more insignificant?!!? ............ Good idea though .... |
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^^
Not going to happen...yet, .It's work for private collections. Long story, but interesting times ahead. Stay tuned....
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I can understand that - its seems a lot of collectors want to keep private about what they have , maybe so they are not hassled into selling it .
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Spotted the "overide key" Why do they make us have guards on machines like this? Can't see what your doing with them in place and they get in the way.
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14 Audi A3 Sportback - Easy driver
05 Audi TT MK1 3.2 DSG - Damn quick
73 Triumph 2000 - Needs work
03 Range Rover 4.4 V8 petrol. Had to get it out of my system.
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Thought you must have the slitting saw in the wrong way and be running the mill backwards, otherwise it would such that in and break the saw instantly. Good to see the fixture though, wouldn't have thought of doing that and hand feeding it.
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Um, yeah...the whole back story about a WWII tank is beyond intriguing!
but, no pressure.
very nice piece of "I am not worthy to even look upon it" work you have done there. I feel like a caveman!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Last two comments are exactly what I wanted. To ellicit a response. Yes,guards and overrides can be a pain in the Arris,but they are a necessary evil. Why? Because common sense is dead. Harris Fowler and the likes have killed it by instilling a culture of where there is blame ,there is a claim. I was taught at a young age,not to stick my fingers into rotating parts. It's served me well. Funnily enough,Japan's health and safety is totally different. All they need is a sticker ,that we all laugh about,showing your hand being cut off,or blood spurting out. We laugh,but it works for them. If you do stick your hand in,don't try claiming,you won't get anywhere. If you do cut your hand off and there is no such sticker on that machine,I don't want to be in your bosses position....A lesson we need to learn there I think....
Any ways, as to the override key. Was in two minds to post that photo. But decide to anyway. Why? Because it illustrates a good point. It was used for set up and to check direction of rotation of the cutter. You can clearly see in that photo,no part on the jig. It was set up that the tool would be between you and the cutter,and,most importantly,if it did hook or grab,it would push the part away from the cutter,not pull it in. The other thing I do with set ups like this is run without a woodruff key in the tool. If it hooks,it slips,instead of it shattering the blade. I do a risk assessment before I start. That was the safest way I could see of cutting 24 slots in two fiddly parts Once set you don't need to see what's going on every second. It has a short handle that you can feel the cutter cutting and it promotes using both hands to hold the handle. Once set up, all machining was successfully carried out with the guards in place.And here endeth today's sermon. Amen.....
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Last Edit: Apr 5, 2016 16:09:18 GMT by Deleted
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Um, yeah...the whole back story about a WWII tank is beyond intriguing! but, no pressure. very nice piece of "I am not worthy to even look upon it" work you have done there. I feel like a caveman! JP I have a couple of customers that restore WW2 tanks. I repair,remanufacture and replicate a lot of parts for them. Three private collections. Really interesting work,that unfortunately I cannot share photos of much,as,after all ,they are private collections. |
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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Last two comments are exactly what I wanted. To illicit a response. Yes,guards and overrides can be a pain in the Arris,but they are a necessary evil. Why? Because common sense is dead. Harris Fowler and the likes have killed it by instilling a culture of where there is blame ,there is a claim. I was taught at a young age,not to stick my fingers into rotating parts. It's served me well. Funnily enough,Japan's health and safety is totally different. All they need is a sticker ,that we all laugh about,showing your hand being cut off,or blood spurting out. We laugh,but it works for them. If you do stick your hand in,don't try claiming,you won't get anywhere. If you do cut your hand off and there is no such sticker on that machine,I don't want to be in your bosses position....A lesson we need to learn there I think.... Any ways, as to the override key. Was in two minds to post that photo. But decide to anyway. Why? Because it illustrates a good point. It was used for set up and to check direction of rotation of the cutter. You can clearly see in that photo,no part on the jig. It was set up that the tool would be between you and the cutter,and,most importantly,if it did hook or grab,it would push the part away from the cutter,not pull it in. The other thing I do with set ups like this is run without a woodruff key in the tool. If it hooks,it slips,instead of it shattering the blade. I do a risk assessment before I start. That was the safest way I could see of cutting 24 slots in two fiddly parts Once set you don't need to see what's going on every second. It has a short handle that you can feel the cutter cutting and it promotes using both hands to hold the handle. Once set up, all machining was successfully carried out with the guards in place.And here endeth today's sermon. Amen..... I can still hear the words that were said to us as apprentices, "Machines don't stop because you are caught in them, they don't feel your pain, scream and shout at them, they do not stop" That combined a few days later a trip into London to visit the AEU Union "House of Horrors" which was a display of potential and actual accidents that had occurred in Engineering, That brought home the need for common sense that needs to be applied when working. As for Guarding, there is good and bad, We have a lathe with a drop down guard over the chuck, its is interlocked, and the lathe wont run with the guard up, but the lathe will start automatically if the clutch is engaged and the guard is then pulled down, there is no interlock on the clutch, For me, this is totally a stupid set up, and could seriously hurt somebody who dosent know the lathe will start without touching controls. Johnny, I love the way you think, somewhat obtuse, but makes in my opinion for a better engineer. Top stuff  |
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Beware kidz, industry can seriously ruin your pelvis  www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1369381/Factory-worker-survives-dragged-inch-gap-machinery-broke-pelvis-hips-ribs.html Is it wrong to have to stifle a titter at such stories? My favourite was the bloke who got sucked through an industrial shrink-wrap and the indignity didn't end at having every bone in his body snapped and mangled, but it also shrink-wrapped him and spat him out rather hot, floppy and beautifully shinily wrapped  Mind you, we've all left a chuck key in (or something similar) and then breathed a sigh of relief when it doesn't get fired into our skull at escape velocity, no? Sometimes luck is on your side! |
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To answer your question about broaching Wilk, here are some photos of a push type key way broach  You have a guide that is a snug fit in the bore of what ever you want to cut the key way into. You push the broach through this a couple of times,each time adding another shim until the desired depth is reached   In a production set up you would use a pull broach that is a lot longer,but cuts the profile a lot quicker,possibly even in one pass With a square broach,you don't use a guide. It should go from round to square either in the length of one broach, or in two stages with a start and finish broach. The square broach I used was the finish broach of a two broach set. Cheap on the bay of flea,as the first broach was missing,presumed dead in action. Or ,it may have been a standard square profile broach,not a full square profile broach.  So the first broach would fit in a round hole,and shave it out to this shape. The second broach,which I have,starts with this shape and ends square,hence having to rough the hole out square first on the mill  Again, in production it would be done with one long pull broach in one pass. Splines etc also broached, both internal and external. Then you get rotary or wobble broaching. I have one I use in the cnc lathe for making hex heads in caps crews  Cutter has relief ground into it. Gets fed into a pre drilled hole and it wobbles its way in. The actual cutting tool axis is offset in relation to your part by about two degrees. It cuts on one edge at a time as it rotates and feeds in. Can use this on a milling machine as well  |
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Last Edit: Apr 5, 2016 18:24:15 GMT by Deleted
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Here's a home-made version I quite like. Also something that should probably have one of those japanese stickers on it |
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Thanks for taking the time to explain that.
Dan
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does the wobble broach tool have to be bell shaped, i.e wider at the cutting end? youd end up with a tapered square/hex hole otherwise ?
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Yes, it does need relief ground into the sides otherwise it siezes and breaks the tool off in the part.
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Wilk
Part of things
Posts: 528 
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Thanks for the explanation. Never thought the broach changed profile along its length (der moment there)
Being a joiner by trade all I now want to make from timber is kindling for a fire
Whereas give me a bit of metal and you give me endless interest. If I had your knowledge and resources, I'm sure I'd also be divorced as she'd either never see me or we'd be skint coz I'd be spending all my time buying tooling to spend more time in the workshop
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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^^
And here I am thinking I could leave metal alone. Would much prefer wood....just not sure how to weld up my mistakes.....
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Wilk
Part of things
Posts: 528
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^^ And here I am thinking I could leave metal alone. Would much prefer wood....just not sure how to weld up my mistakes..... The machinist in the shop used to tell us about his 'puttin-on' plane. He must have been a master machinist as no one ever got to see it in action. ; ) |
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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Mind you, we've all left a chuck key in (or something similar) and then breathed a sigh of relief when it doesn't get fired into our skull at escape velocity, no? Sometimes luck is on your side!
