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Having machined the outsides of the tool when I originally made it, does have its merits. Well worth the time taken, in the event of needing to change anything on it. Easy to clock straight and find your position before remachining commences. Right. All ready to machine. I searched in the tool cupboard. I searched on the bench. I looked in the machine. I looked under the bench. Nope, still couldn't find it. Can't find the milling cutter that puts material back on. So, I drilled it. I tapped it. I countersunk it and I screwed it....err , that didn't come out right. Hahaha And then I fudged it. With a ball nose cutter. Basically, I needed to change the profile slightly as this panel and the inner sill didn't marry up that well. That's the profile corrected on the top of the tool. Tomorrow I will mill off a bit on the forming punch. I will also correct the profile on the lower section of the tool. Won't take long, so should be able to make a test piece as well. Happy days.....
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2016 15:00:31 GMT by Deleted
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So. Tool stripped and lower plate in the mill. Machined 3 mm of the face as I need to extend the radiused section further down, so it marrys up with the sill a bit better. Machined a couple of steps into it that kinda follow the contour. Then out of the mill for a bit of spark erosion. Makita style.... Then polished up a bit under the watchful eye of my pet terminator.....
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Milled 2mm offthe forming punch. Quick pretty up grind before filing the radius back on Pressed the guide pins back in and put the two halves together. They don't go all the way down. There is a pinch point that needs to be removed,hence the gap between the two.
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2016 15:08:56 GMT by Deleted
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More spark erosion required After what seemed an eternity of putting the tool together,taking it apart ,grinding,cleaning and reassembling it eventually closed So. All back together for round number two So that's it. Good to go. The one hit wonder tool...make one part and wonder if it will ever make another.......
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mattiwagon
Part of things
Just got a work truck
Posts: 445
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Still amazing, i hope you enjoy your ride once this is complete, I'm getting excited about the engine build!
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If they cant be nice f**k em!
84 low t25 panel 1.9td beige and rust combo 97 Goped Bigfoot G260RC with clutch conversion 97 Impreza turbo 2000 builders wagon 76k sold 04 Fabia vRs 50mpg pocket rocket 04 battered T5 pickup in blue! Chainsaws lotsa Chainsaws
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Taking more than a little will power not to do anything that isn't body work or chassis related !
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Over the last couple of lunchtimes I managed to cut and drill some test blanks. Bravo jnr needed collecting after an extramural this evening,so I stayed on a bit. Blank into tool This doesn't bode well. The angle of the plate makes me think all is not well AAARRGHHH. The dreaded Mrs Philips disease ....
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Mrs Philips was a teacher I had in my second year of primary school. She was about ninety. Stone and years old...she might have previously been 120 stone. Quite possibly she had been. She was too small for her skin. Pretty much like this part,all baggy in places. She had these arms that wobbled as she wrote on the board. She really terrified me....
Coming to think of it,it can't be Mrs Philips disease. It doesn't terrify me. Every part tells a story. You don't need to think up a reason why it's like this. It will tell you. I will get it to tell me it's story tomorrow. I don't understand many languages, but I do understand metal. To be continued......
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. What's changed from the original pressing? I take it that it has drawn in from the wrong place,
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Quite a lot has changed from the first pressings. The profile is different and the step isn't as deep. The 260mm radiused section is about 4 mm longer and the step is 2mm shallower. It has pulled metal from where it shouldn't have,but then when it's formed all the way to the bottom it now has too much material there,hence the cellulite. Could be one of , or all of, about three things. I ran out of time having to go fetch my lad, so didn't open the tool or look at the part too closely. It will tell a story tomorrow....
I am am not overly bothered. Won't be a major issue to sort out.
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Last Edit: Feb 9, 2016 19:07:47 GMT by Deleted
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Wilk
Part of things
Posts: 528
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I can see it now.... Form orderly queue this side of the skip, bouncers on the gates to the yard. Next's Boxing Day sale won't have nowt on this queue!
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If it can be fixed with a hammer, then it must be an electrical fault
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^^ Yep. Into the skip it will go. It's very seldom you get a perfect part on your first draw,hence the use of a much smaller test blank. Will have a proper look tomorrow,but if I had to hazard a guess,it's got to do with all/some/one of the following.
Shape of the blank- too much material to draw down Insufficient radius on punch where material is drawn down Material being pinched as its drawn down,so it pulls material from an easier source,IE the edge
Will have a look see tomorrow....
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Sorry the test has gone a bit wrong, but I'm learning all sorts of stuff about metal properties from it. Fascinating.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,965
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Sorry the test has gone a bit wrong, but I'm learning all sorts of stuff about metal properties from it. Fascinating. ^ WHS - unlikely I am ever going to need any of it but it really is very interesting indeed - Just wish I lived closer to JB's skip......
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Feb 10, 2016 13:19:45 GMT
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if this were a land rover youd take wrinkled pressing, let it sit for 2 days to flash rust, spray it matt black then put a britpart sticker on it.
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Feb 10, 2016 14:05:14 GMT
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if this were a land rover youd take wrinkled pressing, let it sit for 2 days to flash rust, spray it matt black then put a britpart sticker on it. Or paint it 'SandGlow'' add 'Genuine Camel Trophy' and sell it for triple the price.
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Feb 10, 2016 16:27:56 GMT
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So I went in early today. Had a good look at the part.punch needs a bigger radius and its pinching the material. So ten minutes to increase the radius and polish it up a bit. Tried another one. A lot better. On the right track....
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Feb 10, 2016 18:21:05 GMT
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Got to admit I'm finding this fascinating! Is it just experience that tells you it was the radius or marks on the finished piece? I'm with GeorgeB on this learning a lot!
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Feb 10, 2016 19:33:55 GMT
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The photos don't really show up all the markings. All of it shows up on the part. Experience does help,not that I have a lot when it comes to sheetmetal work. You kinda have to be able to envision how the material is moving as it forms,and what the marks on the part correspond to. You can clearly see quite a pronounced line on the part that corresponds to the radius on the punch once it's fully engaged into the material( due to the shape it doesn't engage in one hit,it has to go down quite a bit until there is material all along it)
Will carry on at the weekend. I think some if it also stems from the part no longer being clamped securely enough when it starts to draw the step into it. Think I will take the forming punch and die out, put the other two punches in that follow the contour, and then put some marking blue on a blank and give it a bit of a squeeze. High points will become apparent. If I can get rid off them, the blank should be more firmly clamped when the step starts forming, and the cellulite should become a distant memory.......
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Feb 10, 2016 19:47:00 GMT
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Alchemist.
Metal shape changer.
Magician.
You really are bloody good at this Johnny.
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