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Interesting. Do you know if these are iron or aluminum blocks where the ball bearing is used? What I've read is that the studs should not be bottomed out in the Porsche alloy block since their differing rates of expansion can damage the threads or possibly crack the block. This could be due to the high silicon content increasing the hardness and the brittleness of the alloy. I suppose it could also have something to do with the threads at the very bottom of the hole being only partially formed like you are suggesting. Seems that in iron blocks it's pretty common to run the stud all the way down into the hole and tighten things up. In this case an installed height of 73mm turns out to be bottomed out and then backed out 2/3 of a turn. This is very similar to what my machinist says he does in some Japanese aluminum blocks, where the stud is bottomed out and then backed out 1/4 turn to allow for expansion. The crank scraper arrived this morning. This is one of the last pieces I was waiting on to get the engine back together... Shouldn't be too long now.  |
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Last Edit: Dec 9, 2015 1:19:59 GMT by euroshark
'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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they were iron blocks. in theory the studs could turn in the block when you do the nuts up ? or do they have a hex/allen head at the cylinder head end to counter it? (think i can just about see one actually)
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You are seeing correctly that there's a hex in the end. Counter holding with a hex key until the nuts are snug might be necessary. Hoping to find out tomorrow before the barn gets too cold. My friend with the barn flew to California with the previous owner to buy this car. He shared a couple of pictures from that trip with me. Between the two of us he's the only one who has driven this car and he says it was very good. Can't wait to find out for myself.    |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Ray Singh
Posted a lot
More German exotica in my garage now
Posts: 1,993
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Dec 11, 2015 17:01:14 GMT
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Its a stunning looking car and well worth the care and attention you are giving it. I sold mine in the UK about 4 years ago for £3k. Now these are 38k plus and a decent one is £15 - £20k!!
Out of interest - how much can a turbo be bought for in the states?
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944 TurboDeleted
@Deleted
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Very very nice car
Cool
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Its a stunning looking car and well worth the care and attention you are giving it. I sold mine in the UK about 4 years ago for £3k. Now these are 38k plus and a decent one is £15 - £20k!! Out of interest - how much can a turbo be bought for in the states? Thank you, I am very excited to get it on the road. Values for turbos over here haven't gone quite that crazy, but a nice '88-89 Turbo seems to bring anywhere from $15,000 - $30,000 depending on mileage. Only 715 examples of the '89 Turbo were sold here so prices are strong. For an '86 or '87 Turbo you could spend as little as $3,000 for a running and driving example. I paid a very small amount of money for this car but you can see that has not been the easy way to go about getting into one. Some work has happened in the last week. I disassembled the front suspension to have a closer look at everything. The brake flex lines are on their last legs so new braided stainless lines were ordered up, along with a new pair of Zimmerman rotors to match the new rears. The M030 struts look like they could use some attention but I don't know how bad (or maybe good) they are since I never had a chance to drive the car.    Of course the dilemma now is what to do about the suspension. Option A is to clean it up and reinstall it as-is. Option B is to send all four corners out to Koni for a rebuild to the tune of ~$800 plus parts. Option C is a brand new Ground Control setup which uses Koni shocks, converts the rear to coilover and even comes with camber plates. The Ground Control setup would be sweet and I could just stick the original M030 stuff in a box somewhere safe in case I ever sell the car.    I wasn't feeling the crank scraper so I took it off. It was fairly crude so I'm just going to stick with the baffled oil pan. I think it should only be another week or two before the engine is back in the car. A small detail, but worth mentioning, is that the ARP studs didn't rotate in the block as I snugged up the nuts. Using the included assembly lube, I ran the nuts down by hand with an allen wrench in the end of the stud to keep it steady. Once the nuts were finger tight there was enough tension to keep the studs from spinning. So now the head is on, balance shafts are in, oil pump, water pump and oil cooler housing are all on. It's coming along.      |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Cleaned up the front struts to have a closer look. It's hard to tell whether the right hand side was leaking or if the mess has something to do with the spewing power steering pump that also covered the bottom of the engine with gunk. Won't know until the first drive but at least they aren't so greasy anymore.   The brake lines I sourced came without any sort of covering over the braid. After obsessing over whether or not to cover them, I covered them.  Then I bought another BMW. It started life as a '93 525i Touring and then the running gear from a 535i 5-speed was swapped in. That had me interested, but then I found out it has an Alpina camshaft, M5 exhaust system (most of it anyway), M5 Touring rear sway bar, 840Ci front brakes with M5 rears, 17x8 M-System wheels, lightweight flywheel, short shifter, smoked Hellas and a few Racing Dynamics parts. It needs some cosmetic work, the radiator leaks a bit, the hatch wiring is a disaster, headliner is sagging and the sunroofs don't work, but it's got a lot of character and I like it.  |
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Last Edit: Mar 12, 2016 4:48:23 GMT by euroshark
'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Moving a disassembled project from one place to another really throws things off. I've lost count of the pieces that I have misplaced and the time lost going back and forth to track things down. Anyway, it's coming along. The last of the big parts will be back on as soon as the next box of parts arrives, and then the engine should be about ready to install.  Spent a little time making the wagon look a little less shabby. My brother in law fell in love the first time he drove it so it's his now.  More soon. |
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2016 2:25:09 GMT by euroshark
'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Sept 5, 2016 11:27:39 GMT
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engines looking larvly all buttoned up.
not teaching granny to suck eggs but i did do a small sad about deleting the scraper, it wont be make or break but crank windage probably more of a big deal on a beautifully engineered performance engine like this.
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Last Edit: Sept 5, 2016 11:28:26 GMT by darrenh
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Sept 20, 2016 3:46:47 GMT
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I wanted to like the scraper but it was very crude. It fit really tightly in certain areas but was mostly loose around the counterweights. There's a version that uses a teflon scraper and fits very tightly up against the crank but with how I intend to use this car it would be overkill. The engine looks about like it did as of my last update but the car was moved to its new home today.  The engine and associated pieces will move to the new shop this weekend. I hope to make quick progress because another bucket list car is coming later this year... Hint: 3453cc's, 24 valves, 6 throttles, 4 doors.  |
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2016 4:00:30 GMT by euroshark
'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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sumpcracker
Posted a lot
Yes, I’m still here.
Posts: 1,751
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Sept 20, 2016 4:28:42 GMT
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Lovely engine build, I don't thing crank windage is going to be an issue, my car needed 7000 rpm to get the 1.7bar, and oil was not an issue, I expected to need one but I didn't.
The E34 look like a cave of desirable parts! I love them.
Cant wait to see the E28 M5! (a euro import?) *edit - MPH speedo and "gasoline" - didn't realise the US got these.
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944 TurboDeleted
@Deleted
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Sept 20, 2016 22:10:05 GMT
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I've never seen a Turbo
Nice car and enjoying seeing it coming together.
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Sept 23, 2016 23:19:06 GMT
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Lovely engine build, I don't thing crank windage is going to be an issue, my car needed 7000 rpm to get the 1.7bar, and oil was not an issue, I expected to need one but I didn't. The E34 look like a cave of desirable parts! I love them. Cant wait to see the E28 M5! (a euro import?) *edit - MPH speedo and "gasoline" - didn't realise the US got these. That's good to hear. Did you do much track time with it? I keep hearing that the perfect storm for the #2 rod bearing is a high RPM left handed sweeper. Luckily our local track runs clockwise and only has one really severe left hander. The E34 was originally intended to be a parts car but ended up being too nice to scrap. I did pull a few choice parts off of it before I passed it on to my brother in law. It's got ~270,000 miles but runs like a top and he is driving it daily. BMW produced 1340 M5s for America. 101 of them were black on black and the remainder were black on tan. This car has been sitting since the late '90s due to leaky rear self-leveling shocks. I'm very excited to freshen up all of the rubber parts, get it running and do a thorough detail. The cars that were sold over here had about 30 less horsepower than standard and they were all equipped with the big aluminum bumpers, but they are still pretty cool. I've never seen a Turbo Nice car and enjoying seeing it coming together. Thank you! Always thought the turbo was beautiful. |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Sept 25, 2016 1:49:11 GMT
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It was a tight fit but I was able to move almost everything Porsche related to the new spot today. One of these days it'll be back together.   |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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It'll be back in the car soon, I swear. I stripped the black paint off of the cam tower and bolted some things together. I'm 99% sure the timing is correct but these engines don't have a TDC pointer on the front. There are marks on the flywheel but they are useless until the flywheel and bellhousing are installed so I'll have to wait to double check that. I'm hoping to get it off the stand and get the starter hooked up to test the oiling system shortly, then in the car it goes and the wiring and plumbing work can begin.  |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Oct 16, 2016 18:01:28 GMT
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Engine looks great! To be sure of TDC just stick a long screwdriver down cylinder 1's spark plug hole  Keep it up! |
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I think I'm at TDC but there are a few degrees where the height of the piston doesn't change or changes so little I can't see it. It can't be more than a tooth off, if it's off at all, but I'll wait to get the flywheel and bellhousing on to be sure before I go spinning it over. Today I spent about five hours putting things together and it doesn't look much different. I thought I had ordered the last of the little bits but it turns out I still need the crush rings for the downpipe and the correct sized crush washer for the oil pressure relief valve. Since removing the downpipe with the engine in the car is nearly impossible I'll just have to wait for the pieces to get here. While I'm at it I'll get some stainless and copper exhaust hardware. The oil pan gasket is a controversial subject. Seems people have issues with them bulging out between the bolts. Some have tried gluing them to remedy the issue but that doesn't seem to be the magic bullet I was hoping for. I opted to use RTV just in the corners where Porsche recommends and then followed the torque sequence which starts in the center and spirals outward. It goes something like hand-tight, 3lb/ft, 7.5lb/ft. This process takes about half an hour because once you've made it to the ends of the pan the bolts in the center are loose again. I think I did about 40 laps around the pan before everything stayed snug at the final 7.5lb/ft... Wish me luck.  Porsche packed so much into the area around the turbocharger that there's barely room to work with the engine on a stand. I can't imagine being able to do much once it's in the car.  |
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2016 3:25:23 GMT by euroshark
'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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Oct 24, 2016 19:02:31 GMT
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I think I'm at TDC but there are a few degrees where the height of the piston doesn't change or changes so little I can't see it. thats called dwell, the degrees of crank rotation where piston is neither rising nor falling. true TDC is in the middle of the dwell. impossible without a DTI on the piston and a crank degree wheel, but as you say any more in either direction and you are out by a tooth. |
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Last Edit: Oct 24, 2016 19:03:51 GMT by darrenh
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Nov 30, 2016 17:27:01 GMT
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I think it's right on now after checking a million times. Last night I finally had nothing else to do so I put the engine in. Not really a bad job, even without help. Still plenty of work to do but it's great to see it coming together. Used the oven and the freezer one night while the girl was out:  And then last night:   |
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'84 308 GTS /// '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 944 Turbo /// '98 E430
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,011
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Nov 30, 2016 17:43:11 GMT
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Or a simple piston stop (e.g. made from an old spark plug) and a degree wheel that you can download and print. Turn the engine by hand until it runs into the stop, note down the crank position, turn the engine the other way around until the stop, note position again and exact tdc is in between. euroshark great project! |
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2016 17:43:54 GMT by melle
www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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Keep it up!
