edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862 
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Sept 10, 2021 8:43:51 GMT
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So, everything that needs to be checked has been checked, wasnt totally sure on the injector firing order but what the hell. Went ahead and pressed the button... Wiring works  Another list of issues, oil cooler fittings all leak badly, fuel rail still has a sweat. Turbo is getting oil and returning it but sounds unhappy, waiting to see what the place that built it say, bearings seem to have play now :/ added a bunch of fuel to get it to idle at 14 afr, got a little richer as it warmed up, needs tuning but issues to fix first. |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Ok so been a while, not quite going to plan at the moment, the car should have been out and dyno tuned before the weather turned but that hasn't happened, here is why.  So I have coolant leaking down a head bolt and the dripping into the sump when its running or pressure is added to the coolant. With 2 bar in the coolant system and the sump off, this is happening.  Narnars! So as I paid to have this engine built I've been waiting for the builder to come and pull the head off and find the issue.   Coolant is getting down that hole, probably coming up the side of the liner, down that groove than sneaking under the gasket. The liners are set high for extra clamping force which is fine and combustion gas never leaked, but that is leaving the low pressure part of the gasket with not quite enough material to seal properly, and that mark in the block won't be helping either. So current plan in to come back with another gasket, some sealant, and then pressure test the coolant system again. Typical Rover engines  Lol I have been doing other bits, Oil cooler lines now redone and resealed, a fuel Y block decided it no longer wanted to seal after 3 days so I've also had to repaint half the boot floor  Slow progress, hopefully be running again soon without the milkshake and then onto mapping it. Oh yeah, I've also been working on some bonnet mods to get some turbo heat out!   |
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2021 14:11:07 GMT by edk83
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Bonnet louvres add at least 30hp per litre surely  |
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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820
South East
Posts: 793
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Gutted for you, that is a nasty scratch to the block, not sure I would trust sealer once it has been through a few very hot heat cycles, especially knowing how sensitive these engines are to heat.
Could it be filled with metal or welded maybe, are there any more scratches to the block or head faces?
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madwrx
Part of things
Posts: 39
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thats a very poor finish for a head to block interface ,definitely not been machined or maybe the block did,nt have enough meat to allow another pass,,awkward now the liners have been fitted to that height too
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Last Edit: Dec 6, 2021 22:01:14 GMT by madwrx
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Yeah a little bit annoying, the block wasn't skimmed and would be a big job now to rebuild it again to have that done.
It's low pressure there but we still can't have coolant in the oil, hopefully it'll seal we'll be using a different gasket and a smear of sealant.
Failing that, rebuild!
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JB Weld in the scratch and sealant. Reckon that would hold it.
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend)
1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing)
1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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Dec 15, 2021 14:44:33 GMT
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I seem to remember reading that JB Weld has the same expansion coefficient as aluminium (although what grade I have no idea!). Probably worth a shot.
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Dec 15, 2021 15:21:41 GMT
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There's Devcon 10611 aluminium putty as well, which is similar to JB Weld but reassuringly expensive!
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Living vicariously through other people's projects!
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Dec 18, 2021 13:05:43 GMT
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Well, newer type saic mls gasket is now on with some sealant around the head bolt holes. Currently sat with 30psi in the coolant system and no internal leaks so far! The coolant system would normally see about 15psi when hot plus the pump, 18ish at high rpm. Fairly shocked the 42 year old heater matrix hasn't exploded yet.    |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Dec 24, 2021 11:42:02 GMT
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Blue cambelt = +50hp lol  |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Jan 10, 2022 14:40:57 GMT
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Back up and running! No leaks that I can detect! The ecu is passing data to the dash, everything except wheel speed which is a little annoying! My Adaptronic is on older model so no firmware updates, although Race Tech say it should pass the speed over it doesn't. So I have been rigging a hall sensor which works, same as I had with my old dash, just a new bracket location as the old place is now taken up with gear cables.   |
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Jan 14, 2022 14:29:23 GMT
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Hmm, I was definitely using the brakes fully on track, new pushrod looks a little less bent!   |
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Last Edit: Jan 14, 2022 14:34:35 GMT by edk83
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Jan 15, 2022 14:00:20 GMT
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Brake pedal/piston not alignhed properly?
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Jan 17, 2022 15:33:13 GMT
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Balance bar is pretty much central
I was having to use a lot of pedal effort on track and it shows
Hopefully now I have double the piston area up front I won't have to use so much
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Feb 14, 2022 11:04:05 GMT
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Eek! My mate's bought a twin master setup for his NA MX5 that looked similar. I reckoned it was undersized masters relative to the caliper pistons, although not tested it yet.
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Apr 12, 2022 16:28:07 GMT
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Well I've reset the balance bar up, wasn't right on a few counts. The lock nuts were hard up against the clevis, causing it to not be able to rotate which bent the pushrod. Still needs a lot of pedal effort even on the Willwoods, but they do need bedding in, time will tell. Mot found that the rear brakes were poor, checked and only a small part of one of the pads was contacting the disk! Now refreshed.  So, now has a new mot too, now driven it 30 miles and so far nothing has fallen off! Just added another box to the exhaust, need to drop that off and tig weld it fully. Mot man said 'It's a bit loud', me: 'What, I can't hear you lol' Now much more livable and it's still all 3 inch straight through. So, needs more heat shielding and a turbo blanket, put some more miles on it then possibly off to the dyno for mapping. Managed to get it to idle fairly well, emissions fine for mot, I did see 3psi boost out on the road but not been over 4k rpm / 30 percent throttle yet on the base map. Currently running about 13.5 afr under mild load / not boost so a bit lean. Oil, fuel prssure, temps seem happy, my random cable gear selection seems to work! Now it has an mot I can drive about with some data logging and bring the base map a bit closer to ideal, need to have a look at intake temps as that will be the weakness on this build with the small intercooler and turbo placement with downpipe under the inlet. Water injection system is working and setup on the ecu output but not configured yet.  |
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Last Edit: Apr 12, 2022 16:39:18 GMT by edk83
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edk83
Part of things
Posts: 862
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Apr 12, 2022 16:48:34 GMT
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Eek! My mate's bought a twin master setup for his NA MX5 that looked similar. I reckoned it was undersized masters relative to the caliper pistons, although not tested it yet. How did he get on with it ? Mine still needs a lot of pedal effort to stop the car quickly, they clearly work though as the brake test roller jumped the car out of if when testing them on that. My setup is this, I'd really like still to try and get a pedal with less effort needed. obp 5:1 pedal 0.625 front master 0.7 rear master All braided or copper lines 4x 38.1mm pistons (x2) Willwood fronts with 282mm discs Ds2500 pads 1x 34mm piston (x2) Corsa C rears with 240mm discs EBC yellow stuff pads Bias valve in the rear line before the T I'm still not sure if I can lock the front wheels, next step could be change to a 0.5 master on the front or even a remote servo, but thats more fitting effort. |
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Apr 12, 2022 21:22:36 GMT
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Your M/cs are about right. Your pedal ratio is not. You need about 7:1 for the correct setup.
Balance bar should be approx 3-4mm offset towards front M/c.
M/C pushrods adjusted to be dead equal when brakes applied fully which will leave the balance bar wonky when brakes off.
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Got to agree, the pedal ratio is killing the cylinder pressure.
I went down this road many years ago and going from 4:1 to 7.5:1 was a revelation.
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-(
2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap
V8 Humber Hawk
1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD
1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Lol
