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Cheers!
I can't decide if there's slightly too much tyre (175/60/r13)... but decent tyres in smaller sizes (175/50/r13) seem quite hard to come by. It's either Yoko A539s or Nankangs.
I don't want to go too small either, because it will compromise ride comfort.
Next steps I intend to work on are:
> Steering column
> Engine mount
> Pedal boxx
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Aug 26, 2016 13:45:35 GMT
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Nah I think it looks mega with that much tyre. fills those arches perfectly.
Just fitted a Compbrake pedal box in mine, not bad quality for the price and the pedals are spaced nicely so can be used with normal trainers on with normal human sized feet.
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Aug 26, 2016 14:14:11 GMT
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Unfortunately, due to the shape of the floor as a result of how the chassis has been cut about to raise the suspension, there's not many off the shelf pedal boxes that will fit! A couple of the bulkhead/firewall ones might work... but it's hard to tell without splashing out first!
There is a bit of a plan afoot... more to come...
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Sept 6, 2016 18:36:17 GMT
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Looking good Frank and it's always good to see it back on its wheels. Feels like progress and your getting there. It did when I got my Imp down on its wheels anyway. ;-)
Looking forward to seeing FAF running once again.
Cheers
Col
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Sept 7, 2016 18:10:52 GMT
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As regards the pedal box could be worth having a word with OBP Motorsport. They do quite a number and can provide dimensioned details of them. I've just had a bespoke foam filled ali tank for the Clan made by them and found them very helpful. Does help that they are not far from me and the fabricator lives just round the corner from me.
Pete Richards
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Thanks for the head up Pete- I'll check them out. Nice to see you at Oulton the other day too!
At the moment, the plan for the pedal box is to make something quite similar to a standard imp pedal box using a passenger side blanking plate. The main difference is that the pedals will be moved closer towards the driver (because of the new floor shape) and the position of the master cylinders will change- allowing for a twin brake cylinder and bias bar set up at the same time. Before I do it I need to work out final seat position and such though.
In other news.....
......in a true case of modification-itus, I've decided that I want a rake & reach adjustable steering column, so have just ordered a sierra sapphire one! This is going to be one heavy old imp by the time I've finished adding bits....
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Jan 23, 2017 14:03:54 GMT
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So, some sort of progress I guess! Previously, I had mentioned pedal box woes. The guy that did the body work on the car did a great job of making something that turned pedal actuation through 180degrees, but I failed to consider the option of going to twin brake circuit at the time and the pedals (although in exactly the same place as original) weren't quite where I wanted them and there were a couple of other things I wanted to address. I am however still keeping that as a backup solution in case of the very likely possibility that my solution doesn't work as well. So: The standard pedal box mounts to the floor area under the pedal box. The pedals hang from it and enter the car through a square aperture. The front of the pedal box is folded 90 degrees downwards and it is to this part that the master cylinders mount. It's upside down, but hopefully this shows what I mean:  And my expertly drawn section diagram shows the layout:  The problem I have, is that the floor has been raised and as a result, the entire area under the fuel tank has been flattened and hence there is nowhere for master cylinders anymore. Ignore the remains of the pedal box you can see, but you should be able to make out what I mean here:  A further problem, not illustrated here, is that to accommodate the raised suspension hard points, the floor in the drivers foot well has moved and as such the pedals do not have enough travel in their standard position. SO. Plan. The pedals need to come forward, the master cylinders will mount on top of the pedal box at a angle and it will all be made of a butchered cut up standard pedal box so that it looks "a bit authentic". The updated expertly drawn section drawing looks like this:  So I cut up a pedal box:  Moved the pedals forward a bit:  And FINALLY found an excuse to dip into the box of springs that I found in previous imp "Bam Bam" when I dragged it out of it's garage for the first time in many years.....:  ....So that I could mock up pedal position, check it has enough travel, and confirm the actuation is at a comfortable angle (inline with the direction leg extension, so that I'm not pushing directly downwards for example). Which it seems to be:  Next stop is to get in touch with the chap who keeps telling me to get in touch so that he can supply the master cylinder mounting plate and finalise position of the master cylinders. The resevoir is remote mount, so mounting at an angle should be fine. But I do need to ensure pedal actuation is as parallel and linear to the cylinders as possible so the mounting point for the clevis on the pedal will probably move (albeit on the same radius so as not to effect the braking force). Once that's done- all new bits will be CAD'd and laser cut and I'll get someone who knows what they're doing to weld them together. |
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