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Hey all, just thought i'd try and pick your brains Just got back from uni and tried to put the Rover 216 Gti through its test because my Golfs just run out of test and needs a lot doing thinking it would be cheaper, it failed on inefficient rear brakes  , My question is that the tester said it could be due to the car standing a year and the surface of the disc being rusty, got that sorted but is there a lot else it could be?. I'm inclined to agree with him because both the rear brakes and the hand brake were a fail, but i want to get it fully sorted before the retest as I'm royally broke! Cheers Guys Matt |
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I would suggest if its been sitting for a while, the rear calipers are probably partially seized, take the pads out and give the pistons/sliders a bit of a clean up and lube, and you will more than likely be back in business.
Rust on the discs is not good, but if both the hand- and foot-brakes are not working properly, summert must be seized up in the caliper.
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1974 Lancia Beta Saloon
1975 Mazda 929 Coupé
1986 Mazda 929 Wagon
1979 Mazda 929 Hardtop
1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica
1977 Toyota Carina TA14
1989 Subaru 1800 Wagon
1982 Hyundai Pony 1200TL 2-dr
1985 Hyundai Pony 1200 GL
1986 Maserati 425 Biturbo
1992 Rover 214 SEi 5-dr
2000 Rover 45 V6 Club
1994 Peugeot 205 'Junior' Diesel
1988 Volvo 760 Turbodiesel Saloon
1992 Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler
2003 Renault Laguna SPEARS OR REAPERS
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some surfcae ruist is OK and it will burn off with use (makes a lovely dragging noise until it does though)
as has been advised, check over and free off the calipers and drive it around a bit on private land to free off the brakes and burn off the rust.
Don't try sand the rust off or anything.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Cheers for that fellas, shall give it a go, ill be off to do it now, I'm fed up with my pushbike already ;D
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:)First slacken the handbrake cables, the adjuster is under the rear ashtray. Undo the caliper bleed screws, wind in the pistons clockwise while pushing, they should be tight but not impossibly so. Make sure the pads are free to slide in the pad carrier, apply copper grease to the parts of the pads that sit in the carrier. Make sure the sliders are free to slide, unsieze if not. After it's reassembled pump up the brake pedal BEFORE you operate the handbrake. Remember to bleed the rear brakes and top up the fluid. Make sure the external handbrake linkage on the calipers are not siezing and are lubricated. Adjust the cables to give 5-8 clicks on the lever. I've never needed to replace a handbrake cable on one of these cars.
If all that doesn't work [assuming the pads and discs aren't shot] you'll need recon caliper.
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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beat me to it dave ;D i tend to put new pads in and back the cable right off pull the lever arms right back on the calipers then pump the pedal up ,then set the cable up again. id be interested to know what the brake performance figures were though,it may be just a fraction below the limit and simply need a workout to get them up to scratch again  |
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