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Having a problem with the Metro (mk1 1.3 auto)... It has had a few finicky moments starting over the last week, but has always done so with perseverance. Before that, it'd start on the button with no problems. However, now the most I can get out of it is two or three laboured whirs on first attempt then rapid clicking from the solenoid after that. First thoughts were earthing problems but the battery terminal is good, chassis earth looks good and all cables look solid without wear or damage. Any suggestions on what to try? Lights, radio (lulz) and spotlights all work fine - the battery is a known good quantity and has a quick disconnect which is used whenever it isn't driven for more than a couple of days. It's had electronic ignition fitted, but that shouldn't make a difference... Help me, I'm mechanically retarded  *n |
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Last Edit: Nov 20, 2014 19:07:40 GMT by penski
Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Can you measure the battery current output?
I've had humped batteries that would drive all of the interior electrics perfectly and for ages but wouldn't touch the starter though.
It's a common car, should be easy to find out the starting current required and see how your battery stands against that.
Quick alternative: get a jump off another car to prove that the starter is working properly?
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Disconnect everything from the starter, and then connect a 12v live to the battery, and an earth to the housing. Apply 12v to the 'switch' to see if it starts.
It could be a dodgy earth. You have to use thick multi strand wiring for the battery and earth (use jump leads).
I had this on my Whizzkid, it turned out to be the starter wearing out.
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known good battery as in its started another car today ..or just yeah its not that old ?
radio will still work long after theres not enough juice to start the car
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,311
Club RR Member Number: 170
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IMO the issue will be down to 3 things: - Iffy Earth on the engine - taking a jump lead from the negative terminal to the engine block (the engine anchor will be fine here) shall reveal this
- Poor Battery - I know you have said it is a good battery but how has this been validated? I have seen nearly new batteries last near no time at all.
- Iffy solenoid - this is unlikely
I would also check for a drain. My Escort had a drain on it for years which everyone thought was the immobiliser. With me the battery would not start the car if left for more than a day! The cause? The clock bulb staying on 24/7. From a 150mA draw, disconnecting the clock took it to an immeasurably low draw on my multimeter. |
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Battery quality is based of the fact that when it does start, it is without hesitation... It started first time on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday lunchtime, started with hesitation the rest of the week, and then just wouldn't start on Friday evening. I'll run through the above today. Thanks, guys  *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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they can just die ...don't just assume its still good
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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If you have or can get access to a decent multimeter measure the resistance between the negative lead by the clamp and the body of the vehicle, should be a very low value, almost the same as when you touch the multimeter leads together.
Do the same from the positive terminal down to the starter just to prove these are good, 90% of the time this is where the fault lies (in my experience).
Had exactly this with my Nissan vanette and it was my own doing by putting copper grease around the battery terminals thinking it would avoid this very issue but instead it just made it an easier path for the electricity to flow too which as it always takes the easiest path was the problem.
Left it sit for 6 weeks in Scotland in the snow and it still fired first time after that was sorted on the original battery so all good.
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Nov 11, 2014 11:27:07 GMT
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I only have a small multimeter/circuit tester. Due to work/rain I've only just been able to check a few things... And I can't get my massive hands in past the coil to get the meter prongs to the correct terminals  Battery does measure just over 12v though. Need to head to town for some errands so will pick up a set of leads (handy to keep in the boot in an old automatic anyway) and see if I can find a half-decent multimeter. *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Nov 11, 2014 11:29:00 GMT
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Nov 11, 2014 11:34:01 GMT
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Nov 12, 2014 11:32:41 GMT
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Nowt Nowt Only got a circuit tester unfortunately but it's an old needle-type one. Touching leads together makes it swing all the way to the right; get the same result doing both tests you suggest  Nowt Guess I'll order that starter then. *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Nov 20, 2014 19:07:12 GMT
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Okay... So the new starter has arrived. Time to get the old one off. The Haynes BoL shows how simple it should be, you simply cup the end like a familiar lover then gently ease it out of its hole:  The reality is half an inch of clearance to the distributor and oil take off:  So... Is it at all possible to remove it without also removing the ignition and oil systems? I'll do it if needs be but it's a faff I'd rather avoid. GAH. *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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Nov 25, 2014 22:25:17 GMT
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Hi, my best guess below after seeing the 4 connections on your starter the other day ... ( unless anyone knows better - in which case - please shout up!) not my pic so ignore the writing  Leave both big terminals alone - no need to disturb either of 'em see the pic above, the lower big terminal has a short thick wire going into the stater motor (we'll call this Big-A) - identify BigA terminal on your starter. we'll call the other big terminal "Big-B" - (this should be connected directly to your battery) - identify BigB on your... Pick one of the small terminals, we'll call that Small-A The other small one is Small-B Get a short piece of scrap wire to use as a jumper cable ** keep fingers away from all moving parts for the tests below as the starter might spin the engine, expect a few big sparks when using the jumper wire ** use jumper cable to bridge from BigB to SmallA, does the starer motor spin? use jumper cable to bridge from BigB to SmallB, does the starer motor spin? Post up the results here, hopefully we can find and bypass any problem with the car wiring  Hope you get it sorted!  |
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Dec 18, 2014 13:40:03 GMT
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Thanks for the help, managed to get it sorted in the end Now starts with a tickle of the throttle when cold, and first turn when warm  *n |
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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