Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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If the gasket has definitely gone take it off and have a look at the state of play inside. As already said, you've nothing to lose.
I would deffinately stick with the Rover over risking someone else's cheap old shed, Your Rover is only worth peanuts now because of your known fault. People sell cars cheap for a reason so expect to have to pay out to fix whatever you buy to replace the Rover.
Do you have access to a compression tester?
Alternatively, Rover 75s are grossly undervalued. Unlike BMWs, Jags and Mercedes of the period they do not rust and in four years of ownership I've only had to spend money on service items and a set of brake pads.
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Last Edit: Nov 7, 2016 20:47:28 GMT by Smiler
www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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You'd think modern would equate to better but I don't find that to be the case. This isn't some sort of retro snobbery, it's just what I'm comfortable driving. Having driven and passengered in post-2000 cars I find the vast majority to be uncomfortable, sometimes cripplingly so.
I don't enjoy having a lot of aides on a car either. Through experience, I like power assisted steering, I like electric front windows and I don't mind fuel injection. However, I can't stand air conditioning, I have no need of rear electric windows, I don't want built in sat navs and I dislike immobilisers, sensors and general economy guff under the bonnet.
For me, the sweet spot is late 70s to late 80s. Cars that at the most have power steering, electric windows, automatic choke and fuel injection and nothing else to help. That's where I'm happiest and most comfortable. Seat shapes and driving positions are important too, the newer the car generally the more uncomfortable I find it for my back. Amazingly, some 1950s cars I find very comfortable even though you wouldn't think it to look at them. Crash safety is not an issue for me and fuel economy less of an issue than I'd expected. From experience, as much as I like an old diesel, it's not suited to my driving habits.
As you might expect, all of that makes a replacement to the Rover difficult. Combine it with wanting an estate, saloon or large hatchback with a petrol engine, no turbo, manual gearbox, and with any amount of MoT for £300 tops it's almost impossible to find anything. I have two items on my "just in case" watch list one of which is a Rover 216 and the other a Volvo 940 estate.
I know exactly what I need from a car and the vast majority of newer cars are surprisingly unsuitable even before the price tag is considered.
So we'll whip off the head at some point and go from there. It's been interesting learning just what it is I want from a car and how difficult the R8 Rover is to replace for me.
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The length of those bolts is one of the reasons for their fondness of HGF isn't it, I know of one MGF that has had it's head bolts retorqued every 2 years from new and hasn't done the head gasket or snapped a bolt (yet)
If you can manage without it while you fix it then doing so is the smart way forwards, no point starting again with an unknown.
By the way have you tried driving an early Omega I found them comfy and my back is buggered, although there's every chance it's damaged/ worn in a different way to yours.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I've driven two Omegas and found them unbelievably unpleasant! This was quite a disappointment as they look like a nice place to be.
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343
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Keep the rover! Fix it and enjoy it. The current value of it doesn't come in to question at all. Any car is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. No matter how much you paid for it or have spent on it so far, the fact that you find it comfortable and pleasant to drive without causing more pain or discomfort to you / your back makes it priceless to you. The only sensible decision is to keep it and fix it. You may be without transport for a short while, better this than the agonising discomfort and pain that's possible from another car though.
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1968 Dodge Charger 1985 Chevrolet Camaro 1993 Toyota Hilux Surf 2001 Ford Mondeo
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,421
Club RR Member Number: 52
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How about fitting a known good engine (is there such a thing with a K Series?) The amount of ZR's being broken finding an engine shouldn't be hard. Could even stick a 1.8 in.
That said there is something satisfying about repairing a car properly and knowing it'll last a bit longer regardless of the cost. A good chance to upgrade the HG etc.
Tom
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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Fix the Rover. Properly. Finding a car that is comfortable when you have a bad back is worth Kazillions. Mine happened to be a V70R which I think was single handedly responsible for me making a full recovery. As for the Renault still think an R5 engine is the way to go but then I am a bit of a broken record.... P.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,361
Club RR Member Number: 64
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You've a couple of hundred pounds? And maybe another £100 to add after payday? You have two too many old cars to be relying on one of them as a daily.
A curve ball.
Take a trip to your nearest Skoda/Seat/VW dealer and see if they'll take the Rover as it stands as a deposit on a Citigo/Mii/Up!.
£99 a month will buy you trouble and worry-free daily transport, and allow you to concentrate on the Princess and the Renault.
A "daily" is meant to be a tool, something you pick up and put down when you need it. I've run a 1959 Land-Rover as my main transport for 25-odd years, but relief of not having to use it as the main family wheels anymore is massive.
We are all old car addicts, but like on the Ladbrookes ads, "when the fun stops, stop".
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I agree with Paul Y above. Although you could put a Chevy in it ^^^what Glen says above is what I was trying to say about the Mondeo - I'm on my second one now (2007 model) and I just get in & drive it. They never go rusty now, pass mot's without a second thought, never go wrong, don't need hardly any servicing and (for me at least) are very comfy. Plus they have an enormous boot/hatchback - quite astonishing what you can shove into them. My bad back was best in my old Cavaliar SRi (1984 model) with the genuine Recaro seats - only car I've had where I actually felt better after sitting in it!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I can't actually afford finance on a newer car, even if I ditch the current ones, nor do I want to be tied down to it. For the most part, the Rover has been a get-in-and-drive car, certainly for the past few months its given me no grief. Everything that has been fixed hasn't then broken again and my annual mileage is fairly low anyway by modern standards since I don't have to commute.
I've got transport in the form of my brother's spare car and I'm making no decisions on the Rover's fate or replacement until I've inspected the head. Current theory, on talking to a friend that knows the K series well, is that it sounds like the polymer on the gasket has just failed on one corner but that I've caught it quickly enough that no harm is done. He recommends removing the head, getting it tested for peace of mind and I'll probably just need new head bolts, new gasket and new fluids to sort things out which is much less terrifying a prospect.
With this information I trundled over to the unit today to get the head removed. There's only one space at the unit I can use at the moment and Mike had cleared all the remains of a scrap car that had been occupying it ready for me to set the Rover up and get started. I arrive, the space is free, so I go into the office to get the Rover's keys, come out and find a car parked in the space. Er... okay. Tried to find the owner of the car and nobody seems to know where it's come from. It's nothing to do with Mike's business or any of the other businesses that use the space, it's just like someone has dumped it there and toddled off.
That made things impossible. Because of space constraints I can only work on the Rover in this one space, that's why it was prepped for use. I can't very well drive the Rover home the four miles it would take for fear of cooking it if I get stuck in traffic or the gasket lets go even more, thus costing me more money, etc. Comedy of errors situation really.
So all I could do today was chock the Princess' suspension with some wood and then go home. Hopefully the car that's taken up the space will disappear just as randomly as it appeared or some other work space will become available. Until then there's nothing I can really do.
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Well that sucks.
Hopefully the head job should be ok on the Rover, sounds to me to be the best option.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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should have taken the head off the random car that would teach them! bet you were a bit peed off.
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If it's not overheated the head is likely to be fine, as said above re using the bolts once is very unlikely to be a problem, arguably you are better off re using the quality OEM ones than new aftermarket. These type of bolts are taken just to the point of yield as this when the max clamp load is achieved, the amount they plastically stretch is tiny something less than 0.25mm in a bolt around 300mm long.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,341
Club RR Member Number: 160
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If I recall correctly the bolts are reusable if under a specified length when measured. I'll look it up for you tomorrow at work.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,998
Club RR Member Number: 35
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If I recall correctly the bolts are reusable if under a specified length when measured. I'll look it up for you tomorrow at work. That does ring a bell from a mate that had built many K series (inc supercharging them).
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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I'm guessing that applies only to OEM bolts as after-market bolt lengths might not be to the same tolerances. I don't know how you'd check what you have fitted though. Perhaps in this case it would be safest to just fit new.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,287
Club RR Member Number: 146
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The other reason for fitting new is I have no idea if the head has been disturbed before. I know from when I did the timing belt that it wasn't on the first one so it's possible it's had the head done before too. This is the problem with buying a car of this age and mileage with zero history.
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given their length the only problem will be finding a tool to accurately measure them!
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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I've had a few rovers and all of them weaped oil from the H/G, i did ask at a dealers back in the day and thier advice was to simply retorque the head bolts, did it and 3 of the 4 went on till rust killed them all had the rover engine (gearbox on the passenger side) non of the honda engined ones ever did it I'm with you on the bad back (3 discs totaly gone) and i found the seat is the main thing, my mk1 mondeo is so much better with the si seats than the lower spec seats, untill i got that a cortina or sierra was the only cars i could drive for over an hour without extream pain or my legs faling asleep even seats with adjustable lubar supports didn't help, mind you 7 years mincabbing in a cortina probably ment my body grew into the particular "Ford" driving position ? even my recovery trucks caused me imense pain and they tend to have a nice upright seating position with hi seats, i can't stand low to the floor seats, my Exs Mk6 escort i can't do more than an hour without getting out for a 10 min walk and stretch
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R.I.P photobucket
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Looks like its on the original-type orange-seal gasket to be leaking like that. the seal pulls away from the metal shim of the gasket. Pull the head off, get it cheacked and skimmed anyway, you'd be an utter fool not to at that point. You mayor may not need to pull the valves out depending if the head has had a skim before, they'll general take two skims before needing other work. Headbolts should be fine, I've only ever had one set out of spec and that was on a seriously cooked engine, and I reckon I've done over 500 of these things, standard and tuned! Fit a Payen BW750 gasket, don't fit the MLS gasket, only any good on a perfectly blueprinted bottom end and even then the weep oil down the the outside of the block. If you drive it normally and don't rag the tits off it you shouldn't need to upgrade to the beefier oil rail either. Cambelt will be fine if its not too old, just make sure you fit and new waterpump and tensioner if you didn't do so with the belt. No reason why you can't get it back on the road for a hundred quid. Let me know if you need any advice.
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